building a motor....
#1
building a motor....
if you have a proper running gsr swap and want to run some lower compression pistons do you have to have any machine work done or can you just swap out the pistons for the new lower compression pistons and call it a day?
i know a shop or some-1 with experience would have to do this, just wondering if this is all that would need to be done or if there is something else that would cost some $ that would need to be done before hand
can you just straight swap the pistons? stock rod's should be fine correct?
goal would be 300-350whp
obviously id need a new head-gasket, but does anything have to be done to the block if you just wanna swap pistons and possibly rods? Id prefer to keep stock bore to save alot of $.
i know a shop or some-1 with experience would have to do this, just wondering if this is all that would need to be done or if there is something else that would cost some $ that would need to be done before hand
can you just straight swap the pistons? stock rod's should be fine correct?
goal would be 300-350whp
obviously id need a new head-gasket, but does anything have to be done to the block if you just wanna swap pistons and possibly rods? Id prefer to keep stock bore to save alot of $.
#2
Re: building a motor.... (digital sol)
U would hone the block and U would want to put new bearings in it. depending on how many miles U have on your oil pump I would change that too. I would go with a set of rods to be safe But pleanty Of people have made 300-350 on stock rods. Oh yea I would get headstuds while U are at it.
#3
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CHEAP FAST RELIABLE....Pick 2
the best thing to do is measure the cylinders for taper, out of round, bore diamater. iff all of those fall into the factory spec. then get you some pistons measure the skirt diamater and see if the clearance is right on piston to skirt. iff all that is then give it a light hone and put new rings and go
but seeing as how this world isn't perfect, your block won't be either.
i work as a mechanic, and after seeing two different customers who were to cheap to do their **** the right way have crappy engines(oil burners mostly) i now will refuse to do that sort of job. i only rebuild if it is done right. it saves me a headache of ******* crybaby *** kids "you put new pistons and now it smokes wtf" but they forget that when i was working on it i told them " you cylinders are out of spec" then i hear "well i don't have the money to buy new pistons, i read on the internet that these will work fine so go ahead and put them in, i REALLY need my car back"
the best thing to do is measure the cylinders for taper, out of round, bore diamater. iff all of those fall into the factory spec. then get you some pistons measure the skirt diamater and see if the clearance is right on piston to skirt. iff all that is then give it a light hone and put new rings and go
but seeing as how this world isn't perfect, your block won't be either.
i work as a mechanic, and after seeing two different customers who were to cheap to do their **** the right way have crappy engines(oil burners mostly) i now will refuse to do that sort of job. i only rebuild if it is done right. it saves me a headache of ******* crybaby *** kids "you put new pistons and now it smokes wtf" but they forget that when i was working on it i told them " you cylinders are out of spec" then i hear "well i don't have the money to buy new pistons, i read on the internet that these will work fine so go ahead and put them in, i REALLY need my car back"
#4
Re: (BrokeAssWhiteboy)
i hear ya, im not trying to skeet out on important details, just wondering what would need to be done. i dont wanna spend 3k on building a bottom end. id like to just keep my stock sleeves and get some new pistons. my goal is 300-350whp.
so looking like new pistons, rods, slight hone, new bearing's, new head-gasket, oil pump and entire motor has less then 30k miles on it, motor already has new timing belt and water pump installed before the swap
i want to do things the right way but i dont wanna overkill anything. "basically dont wanna spend 3 grand on a bullet proof bottom end when my goal is a number that can be done on the stock internals." Im simply looking to sturdy the motor a bit so i dont have to worry about "i wonder when the ring-lands will break"
so looking like new pistons, rods, slight hone, new bearing's, new head-gasket, oil pump and entire motor has less then 30k miles on it, motor already has new timing belt and water pump installed before the swap
i want to do things the right way but i dont wanna overkill anything. "basically dont wanna spend 3 grand on a bullet proof bottom end when my goal is a number that can be done on the stock internals." Im simply looking to sturdy the motor a bit so i dont have to worry about "i wonder when the ring-lands will break"
#5
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Re: (digital sol)
Stock GSR can do 300-350 whp.
And you can drop all the money on a bottom end that you want to, and tell yourself it is bulletproof, but - there is no such thing.
Pay to play, pay and then whine when it breaks, or don't play at all. Pick one.
And you can drop all the money on a bottom end that you want to, and tell yourself it is bulletproof, but - there is no such thing.
Pay to play, pay and then whine when it breaks, or don't play at all. Pick one.
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