Chillinit

I know I should save my money and purchase rods aswell, however I'm looking at the quickest and cheapest solution right now. (I will build my motor during the upcoming winter months). I was wondering if anyone has swapped their stock pistons with a forged set yet kept their stock rods? Would this be ok and can I just slap them in and go? Research says that I would be good for about 350 whp....so this correct? At this point, I have two opinions, swap the stock pistons for forged ones(stock rods) or swap the bottom end with a b16a bottom end that i have lying around....what do you guy suggest? any info would help!

Egg-weezy

I've heard of people running just fine with replacing just the piston. But from all of the horror stories that i've seen the ROD is always the weak link in a boosted story gone wrong. Well actually rings and seal are first but rods are the weakest major conponent. My suggestions is to save up and just get the rods done. If you don't want to go that route than put the pistons in (one less weak link to worry about) and just get the thing TUNED as best as you can. No matter the setup tunning is what it always comes down to. I've seen fully re built motors blow because of bad tunning. So tunning, tunning, tunning...after you put the pistons in and then wait for the full rebuild this winter.

patdemps

I know you don't want to hear this. But do it right the first time. There is no sense tearing it apart and just replacing the pistons then having a rod go and then having to do the **** all over again and now you've got to replace more ****. I say save up 300 or so and grab some eagle rods then you'll be a lot safer and you can have more piece at mind when your nailing your pedal to the carpet.

I know you didn't want to hear that but I think thats the best way to go. You could do what you want to do I just don't see the sense in it. Just make sure you tune that bitch.....this is the most important part.

boosted_dc2

you have to machine the old piston off the rod. have you seen a stock honda rod??? there about as thin as damn pencil. dont do it its a waste of time.

Landon

-iLLuZioN-B18C1

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by patdemps &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> But do it right the first time. There is no sense tearing it apart and just replacing the pistons then having a rod go and then having to do the **** all over again and now you've got to replace more ****. </TD></TR></TABLE>

like i always say, at least some eagle rods, there not that expensive when comparing them to say crower or pauter.

Chillinit

considering I purchase rods aswell, this will force me to have the crank balanced correct??

I'm just trying to see if I can get away with just doing the pistons without rebalancing(ie, completely removing the crank and sending it out). My car is currently down. I finally boosted the **** on Friday and was getting mad blowby. To the point where oil was coming out of my endyn can catch. Therefore, I did a compression test and #4 was @75 . I proceeded to remove the head and yank the pistons....the ringlands were gone on #4 and #3 had a slight crack on it. So I'm just trying to get my **** up and running again, however I do understand where you guys are coming from...build it right the first time. So I think i'm going to slap the b16 bottom end and use my b18c1 head. This will raise compression slightly but hopefully it will last long enough for me to build my block properly. Thanks for the responses!

btw...I the car was tuned with hondata....my boost experience lasted 3 hours but man oh man....what an experience it was!