building a h22a1 and need some help
hi guys,
this is the first time i am building an engine and i just want to make sure i am not forgetting anything
parts i will use are:
standard crankshaft
cp pistons 9/1 87mm
scat connecting rods
darton sleeves
cometic head gasket
king rod and main bearings
garrett gt3582r turbo
act 6puck clutch
standard h23 manual transmission
everything else is standard
car is a '95 honda prelude
i am looking for 400-450 whp, i don't know if this setup can reach this but time will tell.
should i upgrade anything else to hold that much power? like valves, springs, spark plugs, oil pump, driveshafts... my engine is disassembled anyway so it is easy to replace anything that can break. once it is assembled i would like to keep it that way.
i just want a reliable engine which does not break every month (been there, done that, hate it)
my block is at the shop right now for installing the sleeves, i will be doing all the mechanical stuff myself, except for the dyno tuning.
i also have 1 little problem: i lost the product sheet from the pistons and i need to know the piston to cylinder clearance, can someone PLEASE help me with this?
any help would be much appreciated
thanks in advance,
johan
Modified by jokke1747 at 5:06 AM 9/22/2008
this is the first time i am building an engine and i just want to make sure i am not forgetting anything
parts i will use are:
standard crankshaft
cp pistons 9/1 87mm
scat connecting rods
darton sleeves
cometic head gasket
king rod and main bearings
garrett gt3582r turbo
act 6puck clutch
standard h23 manual transmission
everything else is standard
car is a '95 honda prelude
i am looking for 400-450 whp, i don't know if this setup can reach this but time will tell.
should i upgrade anything else to hold that much power? like valves, springs, spark plugs, oil pump, driveshafts... my engine is disassembled anyway so it is easy to replace anything that can break. once it is assembled i would like to keep it that way.
i just want a reliable engine which does not break every month (been there, done that, hate it)
my block is at the shop right now for installing the sleeves, i will be doing all the mechanical stuff myself, except for the dyno tuning.
i also have 1 little problem: i lost the product sheet from the pistons and i need to know the piston to cylinder clearance, can someone PLEASE help me with this?
any help would be much appreciated
thanks in advance,
johan
Modified by jokke1747 at 5:06 AM 9/22/2008
If you plan on spinning it higher or adding some cams, valves and springs are never a bad idea and its worth it to do while the block is out of the car.
What're you planning on running for engine management?
What're you planning on running for engine management?
well i had a stock engine and bought a cheap xs power turbo kit from ebay (didn't know any better, i 'm sorry and i will never do it again) and i got it tuned by a tuningshop nearby and they installed an "unichip" from DASTEK. which they also used to operate a 5th 550cc injector just before the throttlebody, because the unichip can only change the injector opening time by 50% which is not enough.
this kit made about 260whp and after 2 weeks i had a huge blue cloud behind my car
so i did a compression test and the nr4 cylinder had only 9-10 psi. when i disassembled it there was nothing wrong with the pistons, only 1 valve was worn at the seat which was the reason of the low compression. the cloud was because of the turbo oil seals where broken. so this little sick mind of mine started thinking: i could either reassemble everything and buy a gt28rs, OR i could sleeve the block and go for big horsepower
and since i always ride my motorcycle and don't "need" my car, my mind was made up
so now i am still stuck with this unichip thing and the guys at the tunigshop told me i should get something else because they already had to build up the fuel pressure to almost maximum to get it not to run too lean. they told me to get larger injectors and a p28 or p30 ecu because they can open them and adjust their mappings perfectly, and they would refund the unichip.
this kit made about 260whp and after 2 weeks i had a huge blue cloud behind my car

so i did a compression test and the nr4 cylinder had only 9-10 psi. when i disassembled it there was nothing wrong with the pistons, only 1 valve was worn at the seat which was the reason of the low compression. the cloud was because of the turbo oil seals where broken. so this little sick mind of mine started thinking: i could either reassemble everything and buy a gt28rs, OR i could sleeve the block and go for big horsepower
and since i always ride my motorcycle and don't "need" my car, my mind was made up
so now i am still stuck with this unichip thing and the guys at the tunigshop told me i should get something else because they already had to build up the fuel pressure to almost maximum to get it not to run too lean. they told me to get larger injectors and a p28 or p30 ecu because they can open them and adjust their mappings perfectly, and they would refund the unichip.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jokke1747 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
so now i am still stuck with this unichip thing and the guys at the tunigshop told me i should get something else because they already had to build up the fuel pressure to almost maximum to get it not to run too lean. they told me to get larger injectors and a p28 or p30 ecu because they can open them and adjust their mappings perfectly, and they would refund the unichip.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
+1 for larger injectors and P28/P30, thats cool of them that they'll refund the money on the unichip thing too.
so now i am still stuck with this unichip thing and the guys at the tunigshop told me i should get something else because they already had to build up the fuel pressure to almost maximum to get it not to run too lean. they told me to get larger injectors and a p28 or p30 ecu because they can open them and adjust their mappings perfectly, and they would refund the unichip.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
+1 for larger injectors and P28/P30, thats cool of them that they'll refund the money on the unichip thing too.
-- That is for not Searching before posting. You've got some nice parts listed in your first post, but you went downhill quick after that one. How can you not know anything about which injectors to get and you already know what Turbo and clutch you'll be running ?? I smell BS shomewhere down that list.
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wel first of all, I am a motorcycle mechanic and i have never built any engine before. I asked the guy of which i bought the sleeves from, what else to change and he said the act clutch would be needed to hold that power and he had a pretty good deal on it too, so i bought it. Anything else i couldn't ask him because he is actually a nissan dealer and knows not much about honda, that's why i ask you guys. As for the turbo, i looked on the garrett site to see what turbo matches what horsepower and if it is a ball bearing or not, so i ended up with the gt35.
Stock cams (always) at sub 600whp levels, heavier valve springs, 750cc injectors, Arp head studs.
At that power level your GT35 will be just starting to work efficiently. 500whp is just around the corner!
At that power level your GT35 will be just starting to work efficiently. 500whp is just around the corner!
i have that similar setup, darton sleeves arias pistons carrilo rods and the gt35r, i didnt really see a difference with cams, crower stage 3 and you should definetly get hondata and 1000cc injectors, other than that be prepared to spend a lot of money even later on down the road, stock h transmission arent really the strongest.
do you think 750cc injectors could work too? because i just ordered them.
maybe i can still cancel and order 1000cc though, they cost the same...
also, do i need to upgrade my fuel pump?
and how much hp did you get out of this?
thanks for commenting
Modified by jokke1747 at 8:32 AM 10/2/2008
maybe i can still cancel and order 1000cc though, they cost the same...
also, do i need to upgrade my fuel pump?
and how much hp did you get out of this?
thanks for commenting
Modified by jokke1747 at 8:32 AM 10/2/2008
yeah 750's will work but you always want more, the only downside to a bigger injector is idle, but hondata and a good tuner will make it idle like stock.
you dont need a bigger fuel pump if you have enough injector, a higher flowing pump like the walbro 255lph, just increases fuel pressure, enabling your injector ti work less. i have 675cc and a walbro, and i have 400 to the wheels so you should be good. just dont cheap out on the engine manegement.
you dont need a bigger fuel pump if you have enough injector, a higher flowing pump like the walbro 255lph, just increases fuel pressure, enabling your injector ti work less. i have 675cc and a walbro, and i have 400 to the wheels so you should be good. just dont cheap out on the engine manegement.
With 750s I was at 465whp and had room to spare. For the same price you'll want 1000s if you plan on tweaking it over 500whp. then it'll be time for a walbro 255 and maybe an inline pump/dual walbros.
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