<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by igo4bmx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i remeber a thread a long time ago with a guy who built a motor in his basement... and then couldn't carry it upstairs to get it out of his house

I wish i saw the thread again </TD></TR></TABLE>

Look up about 11 replies

Vtec69 the retard

 

ttt

 

im about to rebuild a tranny and its about 30* in there. Wish me luck. (first time)

 

tolerance stacking?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bdt09 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">tolerance stacking?</TD></TR></TABLE>

huh..

platinum.

 

i know what your saying, its to ******* cold up here. me and my friend have been putting on the final parts to his turbo ls. we use a torpedo heater, but its still cold.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by platinum00 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

huh..

platinum.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Quoted from SCC "When dealing w/ microtolerances, the amount of contraction and expansion of engine metals due to temperature differences can create what is known as "tolerance stacking" when numerous small differences in tolerances can combine to create an undersirable total."

 

good info.

thanks for the clarification

platinum.

 

just picked up a 155,000 BTU heater. that should do the trick..

hopefully have this thing built this weekend.

what do you guys use for your flywheel bolts and stuff like that. loctite, or anything like that. or just torque them down right.

platinum.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by platinum00 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just picked up a 155,000 BTU heater. that should do the trick..

hopefully have this thing built this weekend.

what do you guys use for your flywheel bolts and stuff like that. loctite, or anything like that. or just torque them down right.

platinum.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Awesome. Propane & Kerosene own.

 

yea this one is kerosene

platinum.

 

it's like -10 out here and my garage is about 10deg warmer... I only have a little $40 propane heater that screws right onto my tank from the grill. touching parts with bare hand sucks...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by platinum00 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what do you guys use for your flywheel bolts and stuff like that. loctite, or anything like that. or just torque them down right.

platinum.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I just put a tiny bit of oil on the bolts and torqued them to spec. loctite will burn off I'm sure. and I was told all the tq specs in the manuel assume oil lube... I want to make sure the bolts get the right stretch. if you tq them dry you might want to add a few ft/lbs

 

10w30 good for lube. or should i use like arp assembly lube.

thanks

platinum.

 

Torque specs in the helms manual do not assume any coating of any substance to the fastners unless specified. In the case of the fly wheel, you definately do not want to lubricate the threads, and increase the possibility of them becoming loose and or overturning them by reducing the frictional force on the threads. On the other hand you do not wan't to use any type of thread locker either because the torque pattern of the bolts must be repeated a few times before all the bolts will be at the correct lbs/ft. Inbetween the time it takes you to repeat the pattern the thread locker is already becoming active and can make you surpass the proper torque spec before the bolt head is truly seated.

When putting flywheel bolts in, you want to make sure you have a clean, dirt and grime free surface on the fastners to get the most precise values to whats suggested.

 

Well the kerosene did wonders tonight in the shop. Got my car completely reassembled. I'd be out test breaking in the new studs if it weren't for the damn ATL 'ice storm of satan' brewing outside.

 

yea mine would have been done to. but i ran out of hondabond, and no one had any ultra grey at 12am. this town sucks.

so im going now to honda. cause i messed the oil pump gasket up to. not the seal . the little gasket.

man, this engine looks hot.



platinum

 

oh, did anyone notice the 4mm heck head on the new arp bolts.

great for torqueing them into the head about 10 - 15 lbs.

platinum

 

I would let the short block and the head sit indoors until it comes up to room temp (70ish) before putting it together. Let them get to room temp, bring them back into the garage and put it together.. just do it before the **** freezes again. That way you know your torque specs are on par.

 

the garage has been at 80 over night. it hit 110 in the garage once.

that heater is hard core.

i think she is ready to go..

platinum.

 

looking good , how much power you looking to get?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Just Checking In &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Torque specs in the helms manual do not assume any coating of any substance to the fastners unless specified. In the case of the fly wheel, you definately do not want to lubricate the threads, and increase the possibility of them becoming loose and or overturning them by reducing the frictional force on the threads. On the other hand you do not wan't to use any type of thread locker either because the torque pattern of the bolts must be repeated a few times before all the bolts will be at the correct lbs/ft. Inbetween the time it takes you to repeat the pattern the thread locker is already becoming active and can make you surpass the proper torque spec before the bolt head is truly seated.

When putting flywheel bolts in, you want to make sure you have a clean, dirt and grime free surface on the fastners to get the most precise values to whats suggested.</TD></TR></TABLE>

WRONG!!!!!!!!!!

USE red loctite on the flywheel bolts, its specified in the manual, if you dont you will regret it trust me

i didnt on one of my old motors and a year down the road they came loose and i thought the transmission was broke

use red loctite on the flywheel bolts and torque to spec

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by platinum00 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">oh, did anyone notice the 4mm heck head on the new arp bolts.

great for torqueing them into the head about 10 - 15 lbs.

platinum
</TD></TR></TABLE>

It's actually a 3/16" hex, but yeah, it was really nice to be able to do that without using the double nut trick. The ice here in Atlanta is unreal, so I will not be breaking in my car today.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DaX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

It's actually a 3/16" hex, but yeah, it was really nice to be able to do that without using the double nut trick. The ice here in Atlanta is unreal, so I will not be breaking in my car today.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yea, theres about 3" in my driveway. Luckily my car is in the garage, because the other 3 are outside and it looks like the day after tomorrow, even ice on the tires andshit. **** winter weahter

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boostincoupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Look up about 11 replies

Vtec69 the retard </TD></TR></TABLE>

relax dude, no need to call anyone a retard and yes that **** was funny. They did get it up the stairs and only broke 2 steps, lol. I think he has pics.

 

here are some pics of what we got done today..





i got the tranny on as well, hopefully i will have time to drop her in the engine bay tomarrow.


platinum.