Hey guys been on my current setup for about 10k dd miles with about half of them hard driven miles

around christmas or next tax season I want to change my mani, bigger turbo, etc.

Ive never had a block built before but from what ive gathered it takes more than just throwin in some new parts.

Im lookin to push around 350 with a mild built bottom end. Where to begin?

Not sure what to search, I just find built motors or how to build a stock motor or replacing stock parts

 

where to begin? look into rods an pistons combo online.

 

You need forged rods and pistons look to buy a kit that comes with a set of arp rod bolts, then you need main and rod bearings, a new oem headgasket and timing belt, arp headstuds, plan on replacing the clutch while its apart, and last find a good machine shop to build the bottom end for you

 

you dont need forged anything oem is fine

get a descent turbo kit, injectors, fuel pump, a real ecu not a chipped one (s300) and last bt not least a great tuner and walla

 

LOL he is already boosted on a stock motor, has been for 10k miles, his post is specifically about building a forged bottom end and making more power. Way to read brosky.

 

lol. Ok sso a machine shop I think is the answer im lookin for. I kno where to find the parts I just dont kno how to go about actually building the motor

 

have a machine shop build the bottom for you, because they can measure your setup accordingly. my short block was about 180 from the machine shop:
machine sop installed
piston and rod
all the bearing (thrust, main and rod)
gap and set piston rings
crank
journals
and check for premature cracks on cylinder walls and block.
prices vary but im just giving you a ball park estimate

 

Wow that's a hell of a lot cheaper than I imagined even for a ballpark estimate. So if I take my block to a machine shop with a piston and rod combo kit they might build it for a few hundred?
Would I be able to reuse the other components like crank, bearings, etc?

 

for his power goals building the bottom end would be a waiste of money

thats my point

 

for 350whp, a good set of internals without sleeving would be a good thing to have on the safe side (since you want to beat the **** out of it) as opposed to put additional risk on the upper limits of OEM parts. Why push it, when you can do pistons/rods and go a little higher if you want, and at the same time have some piece of mind?

 

It would be much more reliable and probably make more power w/ a forged piston/rod...

Who knows how many miles he has on the OEM long-block. Its probably pretty tired if its been run for 10K miles w/ a turbo setup.

 

nah you want to use new bearings
when they put the crank in theyll resurface it. its the same thing you do with brakes and rotors or a flywheel and clutch. must resurface the application.
i forgot to mention i had the cylinder walls rehoned before i brought it back. its was 6 bucks a cylinder so basically i spent something like 215+
i to was surprised on how much it was, i still had to put the oil pump on a such but its not if you have the internet (which you do) the tq specs are on the net

 

ok do it hink its more reliable at that power well yah, but fuel dependant to me because if you are using 91 then det is a ****. if you are using e85 i dont see the need my stock gsr long block made 579@28psi, and had over 65 passes on it as well as dailey driven. that block is still alive and well to this day.

all the built blocks i have ever paid for out the *** i might add have all took a dump, and to me dont seem to hold togather even though they make more power.

so its a toss up really on what you want to do you can build it, or use the money in other needed areas

 

Well that good that it works for you. However, that does goes with the mention that whatever blocks that you built that fell apart may not have been performed correctly.

 

What area are you in? That can help people on here hopefully recommend you a good machine shop. A good shop with experience building Hondas can be the difference between a motor that has great oil control and lasts 80K miles vs. one that's blowing blue after 15K and down on power already, or one that outright fails.

Here's a basic rundown of what you should be looking at:

• Forged Pistons
• Forged Rods
• New OEM gasket set (Don't waste your time and money on a Cometic HG)
• New water and oil pumps
• Timing Belt
• New rod and main bearings
• ARP Head Studs
• New OEM main bolts
• A catchcan setup
• New valve guides and seats depending on the mileage of your motor

For 350 whp I'd stick with some pistons in the 9.5-10:1 compression range. Although I've had an 81.5mm B16 that was slightly under 9:1 and it drove fine on the street, you'll hit your goals easily with a little bit more compression and it should have slightly snappier throttle response. And honestly, all of the big name companies make good pistons, I'd choose which brand based on whatever you can get cheapest and/or whatever gives you your desired compression ratio.

For rods on a 350whp setup I really can't recommend anything but Eagles. They're cheap, people have made twice that much power on them, and they're readily available. You can step up to some Manley or Pauter rods if you really want, but I don't think the gains justify the cost.

You'll want to get a new gasket set for your motor, even if nothing is leaking. It's super cheap insurance, and it would suck to get the motor together and in the car only to have a seal start sweating oil in a few months. Go OEM. Lots of people have had issues with Cometic and other aftermarket gaskets.

New oil and water pumps as well as a new timing belt are also no-brainers. Cheap insurance, and easier to replace them out of the vehicle anyways. And then in the future you'll never have to try to remember exactly how many miles are on it.

You could possibly re-use your main bearings, but it's silly. Same area as the gaskets and pumps, except a main bearing going is a much more catastrophic event than a water pump dying.

ARP head studs are cheap insurance to keep your head from lifting or from stretching old worn out bolts.

You don't absolutely need new main bolts but a new set is like 40 bucks from Honda. Same idea as replacing pumps, tbelt, etc.

Your motor making more power will be moving a lot more air and oil around, and it's a good idea to invest in a proper crankcase ventilation system for the build.

Valve seats and guides are totally optional. If your motor doesn't use any oil and the machine shop says they look good then don't worry about it. But if your engine has a lot of miles on it it's not a bad idea to replace them in the name of low leakdown and oil control.

And yes, some people have made way more than 350whp on stock blocks. But there are also people who have broken ringlands are 300whp, or even cracked sleeves at 400whp with forged internals. No two motors are the same. But now that the NEWEST B-series is going to be 12 years old they aren't getting any younger or lower in mileage, and some forged internals are not a bad choice.

 

pretty right on here. its been done so many times before with great results, the old piston and rod build.

just my 2 cents, you probably dont need new main bolts, but if you do stick with oem.
unless you have any current issues valve guides and seats probably arent necessary, but replacing valveseals is a good idea.

all said and done, including machine costs etc id say you will be in the 1500-2000 dollar range. this is based of doing it myself in the past and helping some friends along with their builds so i can get them tuned