Broertje

Alright, i've been reading up on a ton of threads lately and have learned quite a bunch, but I'd love to see other's input on about this subject, because there are so many different opinions in various threads/posts ;/

I am looking to build an jdm gsr for boost but aint quite sure yet how i can assure the safety of the engine and making it reliable.. I know what kind of information ya'll be asking for; I am planning to go for around +/- 300 whp daily driven, but would be nice that it'd be safe to run +/- 370 whp for certain events. Now a lot of people claim that a stock gsr can handle up to 300-350 whp depending on different people, but how can i ensure the reliability and durability with these power goals without doing it overkill?

These are the things that I am planning to do so far for overall reliability;

-Carbon Synchro's
-ARP Head Studs
-Appropriate Clutch/Flywheel

And this for headwork, but not quite sure if that also contributes for the reliability/durability or if it only makes it possible to higher the rpm safely

-Retainers, Valves, Valve Springs, Cams


I've prolly forgot to wrote something down since I got like 10 different HT pages open and tend to get a lil confused but I'd really appreciate any input,

Thanks in advance!

mayfly

tune. tune. tune. its all about your tune. talk with your local tuner about what program he feels most comfortable with.

stock transmissons are fine as long as your not dumping your clutch

arp headstuds are highly recommended.

stock head is fine for those power goals.

also posted in wrong section. you would have better luck in the forced induction thread

doood

iTrader: (1)

asking the same question: https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced-induction-16/b18c1-build-questions-what-get-not-get-3094984/

Broertje

Well i'll be beating on the civic & having fun every once in a while though, i think we all do thus dumping the clutch sometimes

and yeah wouldve prolly gotten better replies there, hope some mod can replace it ;o

Edit: How can I improve the transmission to hold upb etter other then clutch?

Broertje

any1?

jbpnoman

"Dumping the clutch" puts unnecessary wear and tear on your entire driveline, and results in a slower 60' than a proper launch on a baseline build such as what you're talking about.

Broertje

Ah alright, excuse me Got a old peugeot 205 & license since a short month, so still learning ;P But first imma be focussing on a solid build

Broertje

Anyone else that could hook me up with some useful information?

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

Your post got moved to the Forced Induction forum. Try reading the FAQs.
***Forced Induction Forum FAQ***

Broertje

I've been reading the FAQ's trust me on that, I just want some kind of verification that what I am doing is right, because when you're spending these kinds of money, you wouldnt want it all to be blown after a month or 2-3 because of missing or thinking it was okay to run xx stock for these power goals, without going overkill

I just could just a small write up of things that would be SMART to do when you're going boost and near my power goals of 300whp DD && being capable to run a bit higher near 360

Small things like this that I didnt know about till a few days ago of hard searching that may contribute to the safety/reliability of ur engine;
-Carbon Synchro's
-Block Guards, even though they cause hotspots

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

Why do you guys act like you're the FIRST ONES to ever try and turbocharge an engine? There are DOZENS of build threads to read over where people have done it all already. Pick a power level. It's been done. Pick any configuration you can think of from stock engine on up. With A/C or without. Simple daily driver to full race setups. It's been done. Notice how no one is flocking to answer this question? Why? Because people ask this question twice a week or more. The answers stay the same.

Why are you trying to reinvent the wheel? Find a build thread, in fact, find MANY build threads and read them all. When you come across something you don't understand then look it up. Research it. That's how you learn. Not by interviewing people on a forum asking random questions.

Why do you guys not want to take the time to read and LEARN this stuff? It doesn't happen overnight. My little entry level build took me 6 months of reading and another few months of piecing parts together. Never once did I have to ask a question. Why? Because the info is already out there.

Pick a COMPLETED build that matches what you are trying to achieve and copy it. That sound hard to you? That's what I did.

Broertje

I understand but, as you just said about you building up an engine without asking any questions, I doubt your very first build was an 100% success <doubt> Here is another example of which makes me feel unsure due to tons of mixed up answers and ppl blowing them up.. Valves, I've spend literally over 3 hours yesterday tryna find a solution but according to the threads I've visited, they've blown their valve @ cruising speed/rpm, no wonder why I've got my doubts lol

Anyway ill just go read more n more, as this thread wont get me far. Mind doing me one favor inb4 that than? Are there any other things like Carbon Synchros that can assure the longevity of an engine? All I want to know n' im good ;p

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

Er. Yes it was. My first build is my ONLY build and I'm still on it 3 years later. Are you calling me a liar?
Leakdown and compression tests. Make sure the engine is healthy. If you aren't sure then rebuild it so it's new. Period. See? Simple.

Carbon synchros go in transmissions. If you don't even know how an engine works, how do you plan on turbocharging it? I see you're only confusing yourself.

Broertje

I havent called u a liar though ;o and thanks for the advice, as much as I appreciate it but where did I write that it goes in the engine itself? I dont know but when I talk about a engine, I include the transmission lol youre nasty lmao

Just an question though, why is it always you tryna bash on people? n' I know how carbon synchro's work tho

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

You asked about making an engine reliable (longevity) did you not? What part do carbon synchros play in that?

Broertje

Well sorry if you misunderstood, but im talking in general, i want an engine (+trans) to be reliable and not break on me suddenly during a long trip or something I'll use the word longblock from now on when I refer to overall reliability, I think thats the proper word used in usa

OneBadTurboCRV

Synchros only benefit shifting.

Clutch only benefits power transfer from engine to transmission.

Axles benefit harder launches and will depend GREATLY on tire grip.

A LSD would be very beneficial for abuse.

All engines below are with ARP headstuds (this is basic necessity for FI engines). Safe numbers as follows, but the TUNE will decide how safe they really are:

Stock B-Series VTEC = 350whp
Stock B-series NON-VTEC = 300whp
Stock D-series BOTH = 220whp

Limiting factor in all engines - Rods/Rod Bolts.

Block guards are a complete waste of time, a hot spot is the LEAST of your concerns with those.

Upgrading valve train is never a bad idea for accidental over-rev protection. Just don't over do it and cause excessive valve train wear.

Put some basic rods and forged 4032 pistons in it and watch your worries disappear until you crack a sleeve. Then start all over again. If you are a worry wart you better spend THOUSANDS up front to achieve your puny horsepower. Just do it already. Everything I posted is EASILY found by searching and reading the FAQs. If you can't filter out the BS, then you shouldn't be wasting your time building a car. Pay somebody else.

Broertje

Thanks for the info @ up, and honestly it might seem easy for american people to understand each and every word said on an american/english forum, but as an european guy it aint always that easy, especially when it comes to engine part names. But it's prolly one of the only options, since out here the information/resources SUCKS


Anyway yeah, I know this information can be found on the forum easily, but one says stock gsr handles 310 whp, another say 370, so its hard to base your build on that due to different opinions on that. And honestly, I've already found several different topics going about going atleast with rods/pistons, but since I aint a mechanic nor do I know engines in & out, but I wouldnt think highering your whp would be just to as simple as putting in new Rods & Pistons && being good to go. Isnt there anything else you should consider changing to deal with the higher boost/whp?


I think i'll just go find a site which explains the engine a bit more, perhaps would help me understand things a lil better

OneBadTurboCRV

Not at all... if you install forged rods and pistons you are good to a solid 450whp. Honda heads are some of the best factory flowing heads. They can support around 600whp without being touched (given, if work is done you will get there easier). On a B-series VTEC engine rods and pistons are the ONLY thing you need (engine work wise) to safely make 450whp.

You are over thinking it due to your ignorance.

Also, we call things by the names they are SUPPOSED to be called. Remember that...

Broertje

Aight thanks for your time to explain, and yeah I am prolly over thinking it due to ignorance haha, gotta admit. I thought it would be WAY more difficult in order to reliability go near those numbers, and the rest aka headwork n' all related stuff are basically just something that can be considered to be done, but not neccesary huh

Thanks

OneBadTurboCRV

You should just go on the GOOGLE and search for your WHP goals. Something along the lines of 400whp GSR or B18C1 or what have you. You will see MANY builds and be able to see what they did and how they got there. That will probably be the best way for you to learn. You could search B16 to and get very similar results. Most people over build their engines, sometimes that is good sometimes it can actually be a bad thing. Search and look at builds until your eyes bleed. THEN, come on here and ask questions. Look in the FAQS as well... Good luck.

Broertje

Alright thanks man