Ive been told to break in my engine initiall on the stock ecu and injectors.

I am bored .020 over and went from the stock 9.5:1 comp to 9:1.

Are these variations comined enough to create a lean condition?

 

no you should be fine

 

I'd go straight to the dyno and then the street to tune it if you can.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by beerbongskickass &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'd go straight to the dyno and then the street to tune it if you can.</TD></TR></TABLE>

stock ecu will run the engine but it'll probably wash the rings out

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MI KENT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

stock ecu will run the engine but it'll probably wash the rings out</TD></TR></TABLE>

How do you figure that. If he is running stock injectors, the stock ecu is the way to go.

 

it sounds fine 1 suggestion do a street tune first then u work any bugs out on a dyno

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GOT14U &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it sounds fine 1 suggestion do a street tune first then u work any bugs out on a dyno</TD></TR></TABLE>

My tuner works only on the dyno and I want to break it in first. Also, I need to get the car to the shop somehow.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by OrangeBoost &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

My tuner works only on the dyno and I want to break it in first. Also, I need to get the car to the shop somehow.</TD></TR></TABLE>

No tuner works soley on the dyno. If they do there is something wrong. You can't immitate real conditions on any dyno.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by OrangeBoost &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

My tuner works only on the dyno and I want to break it in first. Also, I need to get the car to the shop somehow.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Why would you want to break it in first before tuning? Don't you think it would be a better idea to have the A/F perfect before you do any driving? I mean you really have no idea if it's lean or rich. Stock ECU and injectors are fine, but I wouldn't put a bunch of miles on it just yet.

 

Get a base tune on there and then bring it to Tapp's once the motor is broken in

 

With some downloaded basemap I dont know if Im going to wash out my cylinder walls though.

 

dont waste your time on a break-in. break it in on the dyno or some street tuning.

 

My concer is that if the rings havent sealed will that not create excessive blow by in boost?

 

you dont need 500+ miles to get the rings to seal.

 

6 MILE BREAK IN TIME THAT'S ALL YOU NEED BRO

 

seems like having the tuner break it in while connected to the dyno would be the obvious decision.

 

Ok. But there is still the logistics of getting it to the shop. Maybe Ill have to tow it?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by OrangeBoost &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok. But there is still the logistics of getting it to the shop. Maybe Ill have to tow it?</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you have the resources that is a definite options. The only shitty thing about that, is if you have problems the "tuner" becomes your mechanic. And that can be a pain in the *** sometimes.

 

Ya...but I dont know what else to do. Everything seems to be a risk.

 

So it's basicly a stock motor, just a slightly bigger bore, bit less compression, and a turbo? I don't see an issue with the stock ecu, assuming you keep the wastegate open to prevent boost. You need to be richer than 10:1 to really mess with the rings, and you probably would need to do it for a while to affect them from seating properly.

What I would suggest is at least 2-3 WOT passes to dial in the AFR's, do a few more WOT pulls to tune it a bit better, then break it in with WOT pulls. Unfortunately, not everyone has a laptop, wideband, and a crome/uber basemap. For everyone else, there's Visa

 

I was going to tune myself but decided that between purchasing a wb/ostrich/dyno time I might as well just pay to have it tuned.

 

Like I said before, break it in the on the dyno, your rings take all of 5 minutes to "seat" on initial start up.

 

why dont you let it idle for 10 minutes between 1000 and 3000 RPM, shut it down, change the oil. tow it to the dyno and tune it?? all this drive it for 500 miles BS pisses me off. the rings will seat in the first 10 minutes and your ready to tune.