Break in period w/ tune?
01-20-2005, 06:59 PM
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Break in period w/ tune?
Hey guys. I've been reading different ways to break in a freshly built turbo motor, but im still confused about one thing. If you have a completely rebuilt motor, and your breaking it in over ~ 1000 mi. do you need to have it slightly tuned first? or would a program like Zdyne (bc. im going to use it) support it for those first 1000mi?
Or I also had the idea of running stock injectors and taking out the wastegate(maybe put a dump tube on the manifold) and just running it like a NA motor.
any input would be appreciated
Or I also had the idea of running stock injectors and taking out the wastegate(maybe put a dump tube on the manifold) and just running it like a NA motor.
any input would be appreciated
01-20-2005, 07:30 PM
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Re: Break in period w/ tune? (civicflnum1)
what should i do about the boost / wont it lean out when im driving?
also if i do this, what would be the max i should rev to durring the breaking in process?
also if i do this, what would be the max i should rev to durring the breaking in process?
01-20-2005, 07:46 PM
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Re: Break in period w/ tune? (vtec'n)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtec’n »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what should i do about the boost / wont it lean out when im driving?
also if i do this, what would be the max i should rev to durring the breaking in process? </TD></TR></TABLE>
well for one your not supose to rag a new motor so that means no boost. dont rev it past 4k for the first 500 miles then take it up one more 1000 rpm every 100 miles. turn the new motor on let it idle for 30-45 mins turn it off change the oil.....then change it again after 500 miles.
also if i do this, what would be the max i should rev to durring the breaking in process? </TD></TR></TABLE>
well for one your not supose to rag a new motor so that means no boost. dont rev it past 4k for the first 500 miles then take it up one more 1000 rpm every 100 miles. turn the new motor on let it idle for 30-45 mins turn it off change the oil.....then change it again after 500 miles.
01-20-2005, 08:14 PM
#5
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uhm, all are wrong.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=878397
thats straight from earl, and don't try saying he doesnt know what hes talking about.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=878397
thats straight from earl, and don't try saying he doesnt know what hes talking about.
01-20-2005, 08:16 PM
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Re: (quik sol)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by quik sol »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">uhm, all are wrong.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=878397
thats straight from earl, and don't try saying he doesnt know what hes talking about.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well thats what GE says according to their sheet that came with my friends freshly built motor. Theres plenty of ways to break in a motor. some people say drive it like ur gonna drive it some say baby it. How do we know which way is best?
BTW next time i do a motor im gonna try earls way. my comp. numers were the same from 100 miles on the motor to a 1000....ill try his way next time.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=878397
thats straight from earl, and don't try saying he doesnt know what hes talking about.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well thats what GE says according to their sheet that came with my friends freshly built motor. Theres plenty of ways to break in a motor. some people say drive it like ur gonna drive it some say baby it. How do we know which way is best?
BTW next time i do a motor im gonna try earls way. my comp. numers were the same from 100 miles on the motor to a 1000....ill try his way next time.
01-20-2005, 08:30 PM
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Re: (civicflnum1)
Stolen from Team-integra.net..but anyways, choose your method!
METHOD 1: Endyn Way
0-200 miles ( 0-325 km ) : Try to keep the highest rpm under 3000 rpm. Every 15-20 miles, zing the engine to 4500 rpm in first and occasionally in second gear.
201-400 miles ( 326-650 km ): Try to keep the revs limited to 3500 rpm. Raise the "zing" rpm to 5500 with the same frequency as above.
401-600 miles ( 651-970 km ) : Go to 4000 rpm for driving limit. Raise the "zing" to 6000 - 6500 rpm and include 3rd gear pulls, same frequency.
600-800 miles ( 971-1290 km ): 4500 rpm driving limit. "Zing" it to 7000+ rpm and include partial 4th gear pulls.
800-1K miles ( 1291-1615 km ) : 5000 rpm limit with "zing" to 7500+ rpm with some pulls all the way through 4th and partial fifth gear pulls.
Now, don't misunderstand me on the zings. You don't HAVE to scream the engine religeously at the prescribed intervals. If you don't have the space to run the engine up in the selected gears, don't do it. Just know that you can, and IF the opportunity comes around lay into it. Don't over-do the procedure.
I recommend that the oil be changed at the 1K mile marker. If the plugs are looking good and if the compression's (and leak down numbers) good, switch to Mobil 1 for life. Use either 0-30, or 10-30.
After the oil change, you might want to reset the valves and from that point on, drive it the way you'd normally run it.
METHOD 2: 2000 NIRA Comp4 Class Champion, Stephen Sakai's Way
1: Let the motor idle for about 30 minutes then change the oil.
Then take it out and road test for short distances until you reach about 100 miles. Then change the oil again.
Once you reach about 100 miles it should be broken in by then. Change the oil at 250, 500 and 1000 and then normal from then on. If you are scared you can wait until 500 miles before you start beating on it.
2: With respect to breaking in new cams : As long as you lubricated the cams properly on installation, there is no real break-in procedure.
METHOD 3: Ken Wood's (from Temple of VTEC's FAQ Section) Way
1. Use regular oil, not synthetic, during break-in.
2. When you first start it up, let it COMPLETELY warm up, not just kinda warm, all the way warm.
3. While it's still hot, check and see if the head needs to be
retorqued.
4. Check the timing again, as well as the valve adjustment.
5. Very slowly and using the lowest rpms as possbile get to about
65mph. Put the car in 4th gear. The coast, in neutral, to about 30.
6. Go from 30 to 65, in 4th gear about 20 times. This allows the rings
to seat, so do it right, and do it 20 times.
7. Drive EASY for about 150 miles. Change the oil. Still just the
regular oil.
8. Drive easy for another 150 miles. Change the oil again. Still just
the regular oil.
(I realize that steps 7 and 8 say the same thing. Do it twice)
9. Drive it kinda easy (no trips to redline) for another 1500 miles.
10. Change the oil again. Now you can use the expensive synthetics if
you want to.
11. After that, the motor is pretty much broken in, so "go run the dang
thing to see how fast it is!!!!".
METHOD 1: Endyn Way
0-200 miles ( 0-325 km ) : Try to keep the highest rpm under 3000 rpm. Every 15-20 miles, zing the engine to 4500 rpm in first and occasionally in second gear.
201-400 miles ( 326-650 km ): Try to keep the revs limited to 3500 rpm. Raise the "zing" rpm to 5500 with the same frequency as above.
401-600 miles ( 651-970 km ) : Go to 4000 rpm for driving limit. Raise the "zing" to 6000 - 6500 rpm and include 3rd gear pulls, same frequency.
600-800 miles ( 971-1290 km ): 4500 rpm driving limit. "Zing" it to 7000+ rpm and include partial 4th gear pulls.
800-1K miles ( 1291-1615 km ) : 5000 rpm limit with "zing" to 7500+ rpm with some pulls all the way through 4th and partial fifth gear pulls.
Now, don't misunderstand me on the zings. You don't HAVE to scream the engine religeously at the prescribed intervals. If you don't have the space to run the engine up in the selected gears, don't do it. Just know that you can, and IF the opportunity comes around lay into it. Don't over-do the procedure.
I recommend that the oil be changed at the 1K mile marker. If the plugs are looking good and if the compression's (and leak down numbers) good, switch to Mobil 1 for life. Use either 0-30, or 10-30.
After the oil change, you might want to reset the valves and from that point on, drive it the way you'd normally run it.
METHOD 2: 2000 NIRA Comp4 Class Champion, Stephen Sakai's Way
1: Let the motor idle for about 30 minutes then change the oil.
Then take it out and road test for short distances until you reach about 100 miles. Then change the oil again.
Once you reach about 100 miles it should be broken in by then. Change the oil at 250, 500 and 1000 and then normal from then on. If you are scared you can wait until 500 miles before you start beating on it.
2: With respect to breaking in new cams : As long as you lubricated the cams properly on installation, there is no real break-in procedure.
METHOD 3: Ken Wood's (from Temple of VTEC's FAQ Section) Way
1. Use regular oil, not synthetic, during break-in.
2. When you first start it up, let it COMPLETELY warm up, not just kinda warm, all the way warm.
3. While it's still hot, check and see if the head needs to be
retorqued.
4. Check the timing again, as well as the valve adjustment.
5. Very slowly and using the lowest rpms as possbile get to about
65mph. Put the car in 4th gear. The coast, in neutral, to about 30.
6. Go from 30 to 65, in 4th gear about 20 times. This allows the rings
to seat, so do it right, and do it 20 times.
7. Drive EASY for about 150 miles. Change the oil. Still just the
regular oil.
8. Drive easy for another 150 miles. Change the oil again. Still just
the regular oil.
(I realize that steps 7 and 8 say the same thing. Do it twice)
9. Drive it kinda easy (no trips to redline) for another 1500 miles.
10. Change the oil again. Now you can use the expensive synthetics if
you want to.
11. After that, the motor is pretty much broken in, so "go run the dang
thing to see how fast it is!!!!".
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01-20-2005, 08:30 PM
#8
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I am just saying just like earl says in that post....dont quote me on it, its from a long time ago...i think you only get the first 20 miles to seat the ringlands.
I am breaking my motor in on the dyno
I am breaking my motor in on the dyno
01-20-2005, 08:58 PM
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Re: (redturbocivic)
I had melted a piston on my old setup running open DP... It overboosted and leaned out bad... The tune ran for 20k miles beforehand, though.
So either way, I rebuilt the motor, richened it up a little, new exhaust, no open dp, started it, warmed it up, watched it for leaks.... shut her down, checked it over, and took it out.
I ran 7psi (wastegate spring) for the first 500 miles... It took me like 8 minutes to get the courage to get on it... but after I got around the block once or twice and was sure she was warm, I followed the "motoman" breakinmethod that basically says constant up and down through the rpms in like 3rd finishing with a pull from low rpms to redline at full throttle. Took me about 15 minutes, and i'm confident it worked well.
Compression tested the motor after like 500miles, and it's 155 across the board w/ vitaras. Who knows what compression they are, but the consistency was what was important to me.
Still running great at 1500miles
Matt
So either way, I rebuilt the motor, richened it up a little, new exhaust, no open dp, started it, warmed it up, watched it for leaks.... shut her down, checked it over, and took it out.
I ran 7psi (wastegate spring) for the first 500 miles... It took me like 8 minutes to get the courage to get on it... but after I got around the block once or twice and was sure she was warm, I followed the "motoman" breakinmethod that basically says constant up and down through the rpms in like 3rd finishing with a pull from low rpms to redline at full throttle. Took me about 15 minutes, and i'm confident it worked well.
Compression tested the motor after like 500miles, and it's 155 across the board w/ vitaras. Who knows what compression they are, but the consistency was what was important to me.
Still running great at 1500miles
Matt
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