Just wondering what everyone is boosting on there STOCK LS and how long. I am fixing to up the boost on mine and want to get the most perfomance out of it I can, but also i need to keep it reliable. It will be tuned with a hondata 2b.

 

12psi for about 4 months now.

 

At 12 psi, what kind or a/f ratio and timing are you running. That was about what i was thinking of running, but was wanting to see how long motors where lasting at that psi, stock before i had it tuned. I would just be running at that around town and at the track on days of back and forth driving to work and such, I would turn it down. Anyone else?

 

Running 12.0:1 a/f in boost and 24 degrees total timing at redline or about .5 degrees retard per psi.

 

20 psi on pump gas 293whp 272tq 12.1@116
20 psi and a 50 shot on race gas Too scared to dyno 11.6@123

stock LS for 12 months


jason

 

Hey Jason, what was the a/f ratio and timing like on that tune. I seen that car in SCC and was going to IM you about it . My car is the exact same as that set up red, si wheels, etc. How long has the car been on that psi and how hard has it been drove. Just wondering how dependable I would be at those hp levels.

 

Uhm, I'm visualizing you dropping that engine into a gutted CRX. Yum.

 

Stock B18B, 10psi, SAFC hack (i know), 550cc injectors, been 2.5 years now, ~60k miles. Only prob was in the beginning wore my rod bearing but just caught it in time b4 it went Kaboooom.

 

OMG Would you do me a favor and PM me with all the info about your set up. I am very interested to know, and have some questions I would like to ask, (if thats cool).

 

10 psi on stock LS with stock exhaust for 1 month or so, have had it at 6 psi for 4 months.

220whp/210 ft-lb torque @ 10 psi tuned

 

I have also done alot of research on that car, i love that setup. Anyways, How did you install your block guard?? what kind is it and was it welded in? also what are the specs on turbo t3/t04e. just curious, thanks

 

Arent those numbers a little low for that much boost, what all was done to the motor for 20lbs to be tolerable. I run roughly 10psi on my ls and its untuned with stock fp and injectors and its been several months. I will be getting a hondata soon.

 

Oh boy, here we go again.

 

first let me start by saying that boost is not a potential for hp. It is a measure of pressure in the intake manifold and not a measure of air flow.

The engine in the car has a block guard installed in it, and JG 1001 cams, thats it.
We run Valvoline VR1 racing 20/50 oil in it and NGK R5672A-9 spark plugs, and NGK wires(the stock wires were getting ugly)

The turbo system is VERY simple.

Rev Hard cast manifold (it was lying around the shop from a previous project)
T3/T04B BB turbo from Prelude FMax kit
Tial WG
HKS BOV
3 in DP
2.5 inch IC piping
Spearco FMIC
GReddy Profec B
Hondata
440 cc injectors
NX single fogger
Walbro 255
CM stage 5
Aeromotive regulator
POS STR knock off fuel rail.

Stock LS tranny, dif and axles.
runs made on slicks were Bogarts with M&H 25x8x13 11.6@ 123
street tires runs were on nitto 450s 12.9 @ 120
DR passes were on BFGs yielding a best of 12.1 @ 118

The tuning was very conservative running the AF at 11.2:1 on boost only and 11.7:1 on nitrous.
The reason the car doesnt make a lot of power with 20psi is becaus the turbo is small and stock LS CR is 9.4:1 which I consider to be pretty low. and The stock LS head doesnt flow for ****.

I hope that answers your questions.


jason

 

My car was tuned at 214whp and 197ft lbs torque at 7psi using the AEM EMS.

 

Thanks alot st00pid..... good info

 

thats crazy how you were able to run that much boost, damn,

 

WERE ABLE>>> He still is

 

Profec B with the **** twisted up most of the way.


jason

 

hey st00pid when you made the 12.1 pass that was without the n/x 50 shot? and also what do you thihk of the crane or crower cams in a b18b. also a friend of mines told me to change my valves and retainers so i can get alittle more revs out of it. also on slicks without your 50 shot what do you think your car would run. also hows that civic h/b doing in the 1/4 and is the setup the same on your car as the red h/b

 

I ran 10-14psi untuned with DSM 450cc injectors and a paxton 12:1 fmu for 3 months. Oh ya, this was in a 97 coupe that did not have ANY resistors for the peak and hold style injectors(didnt know you needed them). All I knew was that the car was running really rich, so I turned the fpr WAY down to around 20 idle PSI. It ran beautifully.
I wanted more , so I went sleeved/decked/built/standalone and bigger turbo. Still paying off the loans

 

these are th topics i look for, man i love the damn LS motor........

 

ls/t is a killer setup for the money. i've been a big proponent for a long time.
a thead that started out on my site about vtec/t vs non-vtec/t can be found here for those who are interested in the read: http://www.hondaswap.com/forums/inde...ST&f=12&t=4016
in case you dont know me, i am pissedoffsol.

Anyhoo....
lot's went on in this thread.....

like he said, he's running a to4b compressor side... small. IMO anymore than that- if not already - heat soak is going to come into play on the size of a turbo at that psi. every turbo tops out somewhere.
running 10 psi in a stock fuel setup is retarded.... even on a t25 or 14g. there is no way you are getting enough gas.
exactly.
boost means jack and ****, and jack left town. I HATE reading posts that say, I want to run 12 psi on a stock motor. how long will it last? ohh wait, thats this thread. the point i'm trying to make is that there's a huge difference between air volume and air density. let me copy/paste from an article on my site...
-----------
Many people think that shoving more air into the intake automatically creates more power. Under N/A circumstances, this probably holds true. Under a turbo or supercharged application, it does not. Let's find out why.

Fundamentals

Let's start with some basics. When air is put through a turbo, it is compressed. General physics will tell you that compressing something creates heat. Heat is the byproduct of compression and we see this everyday driving around with our cars. Your car is cold until it warms up. What causes it to warm up is that compression is happening in the cumbustion chambers. Now that we all agree on this, let's go one step furthur. Physics will also tell us that warm air is less dense than cool air. Less density means that something will weigh less for any given volume. Picture a 1 pound bag of feathers and a 1 lb bag of Mercury (the heaviest element). The Hg bag is going to be much smaller in volume than the bag of feathers.

It's important to know that it's the mass of air breathed by the engine that determines power, not the volume. So if the engine is being fed warm, high pressure air, the maximum power possible is significantly lower than if it is inhaling cold, high pressure air. Why? Let's go back and look at our two bags. Say we had a motor that ran off anything- garbage, gas, oil, clothes, feathers, and even Mercury. Now, let's fuel it. What will make power for the shortest time? Probably the feathers or the clothes. What will make the most? The Mercury. Why? Simple- putting in 1 "gallon" of clothes will give it some fuel. Giving it 1 "gallon" of mercury will technically be putting more fuel into the garbage eater. Perhaps it's not the best example. Be that as it may, but accept the fact that when you can fit more 'stuff' into a constant volume, you create a higer density. And since warm air is less dense than cold air, cold air will make more power because there is more volume available to fit more cold air at any given moment, thus feeding the motor more air.

The Comparison

All of the above hasn't even touched our battle of Air Mass versus Air Volume. In all reality, it's not a battle. Rather, it's both that create power. Take a look at it this way. A car flowing a lot of hot air (less dense) will probably make the same power as a car flowing a little bit of cool air (more dense) in terms of volume. Crank up the volume of the 2nd car so they are equal, and the 2nd car will outperform the 1st car.
----------
now, all that said- let me say something else.
Honda's, in general, crave a low pressure, high volume charge. Supra's on the other hand crave high pressure and high volume.
What it all comes down to is: CFM's. the higest amount of cfm's you can push in at a moderate psi, the better. Now, this doesn't take into consideration lag or anything else, so just factor that in as well.
lets take an example- say a straight t4 pushes 500 cfms at 5 psi
for compairson, a straight t3 pushes 300 cfms at 5psi. to make the t3 push 500 cfms, we need to boost say 8psi.
which one makes more power? they are both pushing the same amount of air now, so really- lag comes into play, and since neither is a real high number or psi, the reults, minus lag, will be fairly similar (please remember, im only using this an an example to try to prove a point)
let's take a more radical example.
t66 boosting 5 psi pushing 800 cfms (again, just an example)
t25 would have to boost a lot- like 15-18 psi for hit 800 cfms (also just an example)
the t66 is something our motors would much rather see-- low boost, high air. BUT, since none of our street cars can live with the lag it creates, its simply just too big. the t25 is out of its range- simply throwing in heat at this point.
but all real world factors aside, the power output would be similar (at least peak and/or given usable range) because they are now said to be flowing the same cfm's.
its sad but true- but can be fixed. a nice port/polish, valvetrain upgrade, and turbo cut higher lift cams can solve this- probably for the same price as a stock vtec head. so now your ls head will flow pretty damn good, and it will hold 8000 rpms. (lets hope the bottom end will too!)

I recently picked up a set of the crower's. they have a nice lift on em. here's a side by side of them to the stock b18b's. (stock gear on in photo)
the pics kinda suck- but you can tell the lift is much higer, and the duration is just a couple ticks more.
(note: these are the exhaust side.... i didnt get any intake side by side pics)



notice the nice abrupt \ below




your friend is a f00king genious if you do cams, you should upgrade your springs and retainers anyway.
this is not a valid question

anyway- i jut used up my share of the board space for the week with his post.

HTH and feel free to ask any questions you have. i've done a boat load of research on the b18b/turbo setup.
i can't wait to own all the vtec ***-humpers out there who talk all kinds of **** about how im not going vtec.. whats wrong with me... v-tek y0! and so on.
once you kill the poor flow, and low rev holding valve floating suckiness of the ls head, its a killer setup.

ls/t at 8500 rpms, t4 60-1 pushed, bye bye vtec boy

 

i have a 91 ls motor dropped into my 88 crx hf and tihnking about turboing it and i was just thinkng that i would be scared to go past 7 psi cusae i heard that its not safe to run past 7 on stock motor but for those of you running 12 15 and 20 psi on your stock motors is there any problems or anything i should worry about if i go up to 15 psi case its my only car and i cant blow up my motor me so stupid

 

read the thread- tuning