Boosted LS bogging
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From: Virginia Beach, VA
Boosted LS bogging
-99 LS boosted
-on CromePro
-12psi
-255 walbro
-adj. FPR
-Deka 660's
-RLD ramhorn
-precision T3 turbo(unsure which model old school)
-re-tuned by shawn at rameybuilt
Bout a week ago it started bogging around 3000-3500k...got it re-tuned and its still doing it, not as bad but still hesitates in any gear more so 2nd-5th.
anybody have this issue before or could point me in the right direction? replacing the dizzy today for ***** and giggles. Blew out the fuel filter yesterday and it was kinda black but dont think thats the problem...
-on CromePro
-12psi
-255 walbro
-adj. FPR
-Deka 660's
-RLD ramhorn
-precision T3 turbo(unsure which model old school)
-re-tuned by shawn at rameybuilt
Bout a week ago it started bogging around 3000-3500k...got it re-tuned and its still doing it, not as bad but still hesitates in any gear more so 2nd-5th.
anybody have this issue before or could point me in the right direction? replacing the dizzy today for ***** and giggles. Blew out the fuel filter yesterday and it was kinda black but dont think thats the problem...
Who is Mr Robot?
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From: ATL - Where the Pimps and Players dwell
Re: Boosted LS bogging
Define bogging... Also does it only happen under light throttle input, heavy throttle input, on flat ground, up a hill, etc.
Did it do it on the dyno as well?
Do you have a wideband? If so what does the afr do when the bogging starts?
Do you have a fuel pressure gauge or some way to view fuel pressure? what is base pressure and what is it when the bogging starts.
How many miles on the fuel filter? Blowing the filter out won't help much as you can't eliminate the particles that are stuck within the filter media. These are what clog the filter and reduce flow and pressure.
Can you post your fuel and ignition maps and any datalogs if you have them? We need a lot more data and info to be of any use. Also what does your tuner say about the problem
Did it do it on the dyno as well?
Do you have a wideband? If so what does the afr do when the bogging starts?
Do you have a fuel pressure gauge or some way to view fuel pressure? what is base pressure and what is it when the bogging starts.
How many miles on the fuel filter? Blowing the filter out won't help much as you can't eliminate the particles that are stuck within the filter media. These are what clog the filter and reduce flow and pressure.
Can you post your fuel and ignition maps and any datalogs if you have them? We need a lot more data and info to be of any use. Also what does your tuner say about the problem
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 5
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From: Virginia Beach, VA
Re: Boosted LS bogging
Define bogging... Also does it only happen under light throttle input, heavy throttle input, on flat ground, up a hill, etc.
Did it do it on the dyno as well?
Do you have a wideband? If so what does the afr do when the bogging starts?
Do you have a fuel pressure gauge or some way to view fuel pressure? what is base pressure and what is it when the bogging starts.
How many miles on the fuel filter? Blowing the filter out won't help much as you can't eliminate the particles that are stuck within the filter media. These are what clog the filter and reduce flow and pressure.
Can you post your fuel and ignition maps and any datalogs if you have them? We need a lot more data and info to be of any use. Also what does your tuner say about the problem
Did it do it on the dyno as well?
Do you have a wideband? If so what does the afr do when the bogging starts?
Do you have a fuel pressure gauge or some way to view fuel pressure? what is base pressure and what is it when the bogging starts.
How many miles on the fuel filter? Blowing the filter out won't help much as you can't eliminate the particles that are stuck within the filter media. These are what clog the filter and reduce flow and pressure.
Can you post your fuel and ignition maps and any datalogs if you have them? We need a lot more data and info to be of any use. Also what does your tuner say about the problem
-Bogging as in it shutters/ wants to fall on its face/choking. Happens under light throttle only and sometimes between 3,000/3,200 rpms now
-yes it did it on the dyno, we swapped spark plug wires and it ran smoother but still bogged.
-No don't have a wideband yet, working on a new DP to accommodate for one. And not sure about the A/F ratio.
-yes i have a FP gauge but its mounted on the fuel filter under the hood so I can't see what it does and didn't even think about checking that when it was on the dyno...
-fuel filters been same one since i got the car december of last year.
-yes attached is my dyno sheet.
-also has a brand new distributor on it, thought it would fix it but didn't lol...
Who is Mr Robot?
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From: ATL - Where the Pimps and Players dwell
Re: Boosted LS bogging
The air fuel graph on the dyno looks solid. I doubt it's a fuel delivery issue. Granted what a car does on a dyno is different from what it sees on the street in regards to part throttle cruise.
You really need a wideband in the downpipe to figure out what's going on. It could be going really rich or really lean to cause the stumble.
Without knowing what your cruise afr is it's gonna be hard to tell.
You really need a wideband in the downpipe to figure out what's going on. It could be going really rich or really lean to cause the stumble.
Without knowing what your cruise afr is it's gonna be hard to tell.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Dec 2013
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From: Virginia Beach, VA
Re: Boosted LS bogging
Yah that's what another one of my buddies told me I really need and a street tune instead of a dyno tune. I'm also wondering if maybe a TPS or crank sensor could cause this as well. I highly doubt it jumped timing cause it runs fine at idle and full throttle. So back to the drawing board I guess. Keep u guys updated.
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Re: Boosted LS bogging
Street tune? Dyno tune?
Seriously, there's a reason those silly Brits call them Rolling Roads. There's nothing stopping a competent tuner from getting WOT dialed in over however many pulls s/he needs, then doing the partial throttle stuff and giving you a solid all-around tune for the street and the track.
Seriously, there's a reason those silly Brits call them Rolling Roads. There's nothing stopping a competent tuner from getting WOT dialed in over however many pulls s/he needs, then doing the partial throttle stuff and giving you a solid all-around tune for the street and the track.
Who is Mr Robot?
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From: ATL - Where the Pimps and Players dwell
Re: Boosted LS bogging
Also unless you are using an eddy current dyno there's no way to load the drivetrain to simulate the loads a car sees on the street so it's virtually impossible to do part throttle, low load tuning if you're using an inertial dyno with a fixed roller weight.
Some street tuning needs to be done after a dyno session to tune everything else but WOT.
Typically if you run closed loop with afr feedback the ecu will build it's own maps. Assuming your EMS supports that function
Some street tuning needs to be done after a dyno session to tune everything else but WOT.
Typically if you run closed loop with afr feedback the ecu will build it's own maps. Assuming your EMS supports that function
Thread Starter
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Joined: Dec 2013
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From: Virginia Beach, VA
Re: Boosted LS bogging
Also unless you are using an eddy current dyno there's no way to load the drivetrain to simulate the loads a car sees on the street so it's virtually impossible to do part throttle, low load tuning if you're using an inertial dyno with a fixed roller weight.
Some street tuning needs to be done after a dyno session to tune everything else but WOT.
Typically if you run closed loop with afr feedback the ecu will build it's own maps. Assuming your EMS supports that function
Some street tuning needs to be done after a dyno session to tune everything else but WOT.
Typically if you run closed loop with afr feedback the ecu will build it's own maps. Assuming your EMS supports that function
So I guess im SOL till I get my DP made and wideband hook up huh? lol
Also would bad TPS or spark plug gapping be the culprit to the bogging or maybe knock sensor?
Who is Mr Robot?
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From: ATL - Where the Pimps and Players dwell
Re: Boosted LS bogging
Tps could do it. Typically spark blowout happens at high rpm/high load... It would take a seriously fucked ignition system to do it at cruise lol.
As far as the tps, can you log the voltages from the ecu? Typically if you view the tps signal in a graph form with rpm, speed, and load, etc you'll see gaps or sharp changes in the tps graph. This indicates the potentiometer in the sensor has gone bad.
If you can't log the voltages at the ecu then check voltage with a multimeter at the sensor.
Check it closed, wide open, then very very slowly open the throttle by hand and watch the multimeter. If the voltage readout goes blank or starts hopping around then the sensor is bad.
You could try reading the plugs when it acts up but it can be hit or miss since the plug might have some residual buildup from low load operation.
I would try it this way.
Pull the plugs and clean them after you warm the motor up.
Put them back in and find an empty stretch of road or do it when traffic is minimal.
Do a wot pull to get the plugs to show proper operation and then try to induce the bogging. After it does it for a few seconds immediately kill the motor, coast off the road, and pull the plugs.
It won't be perfect but it should show you if it's being caused by a rich or lean condition
As far as the tps, can you log the voltages from the ecu? Typically if you view the tps signal in a graph form with rpm, speed, and load, etc you'll see gaps or sharp changes in the tps graph. This indicates the potentiometer in the sensor has gone bad.
If you can't log the voltages at the ecu then check voltage with a multimeter at the sensor.
Check it closed, wide open, then very very slowly open the throttle by hand and watch the multimeter. If the voltage readout goes blank or starts hopping around then the sensor is bad.
You could try reading the plugs when it acts up but it can be hit or miss since the plug might have some residual buildup from low load operation.
I would try it this way.
Pull the plugs and clean them after you warm the motor up.
Put them back in and find an empty stretch of road or do it when traffic is minimal.
Do a wot pull to get the plugs to show proper operation and then try to induce the bogging. After it does it for a few seconds immediately kill the motor, coast off the road, and pull the plugs.
It won't be perfect but it should show you if it's being caused by a rich or lean condition
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
From: Virginia Beach, VA
Re: Boosted LS bogging
Tps could do it. Typically spark blowout happens at high rpm/high load... It would take a seriously fucked ignition system to do it at cruise lol.
As far as the tps, can you log the voltages from the ecu? Typically if you view the tps signal in a graph form with rpm, speed, and load, etc you'll see gaps or sharp changes in the tps graph. This indicates the potentiometer in the sensor has gone bad.
If you can't log the voltages at the ecu then check voltage with a multimeter at the sensor.
Check it closed, wide open, then very very slowly open the throttle by hand and watch the multimeter. If the voltage readout goes blank or starts hopping around then the sensor is bad.
You could try reading the plugs when it acts up but it can be hit or miss since the plug might have some residual buildup from low load operation.
I would try it this way.
Pull the plugs and clean them after you warm the motor up.
Put them back in and find an empty stretch of road or do it when traffic is minimal.
Do a wot pull to get the plugs to show proper operation and then try to induce the bogging. After it does it for a few seconds immediately kill the motor, coast off the road, and pull the plugs.
It won't be perfect but it should show you if it's being caused by a rich or lean condition
As far as the tps, can you log the voltages from the ecu? Typically if you view the tps signal in a graph form with rpm, speed, and load, etc you'll see gaps or sharp changes in the tps graph. This indicates the potentiometer in the sensor has gone bad.
If you can't log the voltages at the ecu then check voltage with a multimeter at the sensor.
Check it closed, wide open, then very very slowly open the throttle by hand and watch the multimeter. If the voltage readout goes blank or starts hopping around then the sensor is bad.
You could try reading the plugs when it acts up but it can be hit or miss since the plug might have some residual buildup from low load operation.
I would try it this way.
Pull the plugs and clean them after you warm the motor up.
Put them back in and find an empty stretch of road or do it when traffic is minimal.
Do a wot pull to get the plugs to show proper operation and then try to induce the bogging. After it does it for a few seconds immediately kill the motor, coast off the road, and pull the plugs.
It won't be perfect but it should show you if it's being caused by a rich or lean condition
I ordered a omni power TPS should be here pretty soon will calibrate when I install the new one. As far as all the other stuff I'll have shawn check it out next time I get a touch up tune and ask if he can do a street tune as well. Still building my B16 head for my LS/V so dont wanna pay for a full retune yet. And I actually just replaced my plugs since I was on 110 when i got it tuned, i/m running 93 right now till I race on the weekends...
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