jarvis199

ok guys im having a strange starting problem, it started out as only a problem when the engine was warm, and shut off at a gas station or something for a few minutes then when attempting to restart it would, now its progressed into not starting at all...

alright, first a little background as to what im running...

-95 cx hatch w/z6 swap (vitara/tt/arp headstuds)
-t3t04e 57 trim
-precision 680cc inj w/ obd0 honda resistor box
-bkr7e plugs (fresh) gapped @.024
-msd 3 bar map sensor (less than 3 months old)
-walbro 255 pump
-chipped p28 running crome free tuned by me with a plx m300
-daily driven @ 21psi

symptoms:
-last week at the track after 2 passes started blowing out spark and noticed 2 of 4 plugs had broken insulators (top where the plug wire boot goes on, odd, never heard of this)
-directly after that if i went to start the car cold it was fine, start right up, but after it reach full operating temp and ishut it off it wuoldnt restart for about 5-7 minutes
-today datalogged the car some using ecucontrol to make sure my ect and iat sensors were good and they were, full operating temp was between 197* and 203*, and iat's were 125* sitting still in my driveway for about half hour
-right after this shut the car off and went on to doing something else for about 4 hours came back to leave and no start at all...

what ive tried to resolve this problem:
-used but known working main relay (out of my wifes car)
-use and known good dizzy out of wifes car
-ECT sensor
-new fuel filter
-redid a few vac lines t omake sure everything was good
-checked to make sure i cuold hear the fuel pump kick on, and ican...
-stuck a stock fpr on the car (had a b&m half assed job on it, worked for years, but iono)
-burnt numerous chips thikning maybe my map was too rich...
-pulled off the fuel return line to make sure the fpr wasnt stuck shut
-changed spark plugs
-checked for spark (good, actually really good)
-checked for fuel (good, the plugs are soaked tho???)
-no blown fuses
-no broken wires that i could find

this engine has ran for 27k miles boosted, and has always read 21 on the vac guage, and it was the same earlier hwen i had it running, so im assuming compression hasnt changed, but i havent done a test since my friend broke my guage! lol... any help would be much appreciated...

MagnaniEG6

bump trying to figure out what it is.......

ABK

Did you check compression? I've seen cars that won't start because they don't hold compression. Prolly not your issue. Did you pull the plugs out see if they are soaked in fuel? It could be anything. See if t-belt jumped timing.

jarvis199

injectors WERE soaked, BUT, when i pulled the plugs and checked for spark their was plenty, it almost seemed like it would spark more htan it should (not brighter, but more times)...

still havent done a comp test, but when hte car did start, it ran fine, no sign of bad compressin on any cylinders (as far as a miss or anything)...

wouldnt my vac/boost guage read lower i i lost compression?

jarvis199

bump... i swear, everyone on here bitches because people post random, vague questions, i post a good one and u ******* cant even respond!!!

thanks to you that have responded, and to the rest of you i dotn wanna hear you bitch about other people posting shitty threads...

this is a serious problem for me, last night when the car did start, it ran PERFECT, pulled hard, didnt miss, didnt blow out spark, NOTHING, im stumped, completely and udderly stumped!!!

car isnt using oil, isnt doing anything out of the ordinary WHEN IT RUNS... heck, when it was doing this at the track, the times i GOT it to start it would still pull 8.0@94mph spinning due to the terrible track prep, so i know the block is good, my vac guage hasnt hcanged, but no i havent done a compression test...

sorry for the rant at the beginning but this is just frustrating!

MagnaniEG6

wow chill there tiger calling people ******* wont help

jarvis199

i meant it in a playful manner

im just frustrated as all heck... changed out everything on the car that could have any possible reason to go out except the starter and alternator... i dotn see how either could cause this, but i may check it out anywho

agrn93ls

ran into issues like this before it sounds like you are losing spark intermittently when things are hot. the most common things to cause this issue are coils and crank sensors/TDC sensors.

but i see you tried another distributor. did it do this with the other distributor

BlackCRX

check main relay and starter relay

when you prime the fuel the CEL should come on, at this time you should be able to hear your fuel pump whining

when the CEL turns off, you should hear a click from the main relay.

jarvis199

tried resoldering my main relay (for the 2nd time, did this last year and it was the cause)... and then tried the main relay out of my wifes car, same issues...

tried two different distributers and it happened on both...

where is the starter relay and how would it cause this type of problem???

i do know that my power wire to my starter was loose kind of randomly last night, but the car still cranked fine...

its getting to the point where im gonna haveto check every plug with a multimeter but dag on it i was hoping it wasnt something liket hat... i dont have a compression tester handy and i wish i did...

but wouldnt i know if compression was low, wouldnt my car idle a little lower than usual or i notice some sort of miss or odd idle??? cause the car ran FINE, when it ran...

i wish it were the vtec fluid, checked it and changed it, no help!

anyone have any insight on j12, i left it cut, could that cause problems? i actually just soldered a jumper back in, so im gnna go out tonight and try it...

also, last night when i took the b&m fpr off and put a stocker on it started, with some hesitation, but it started and after about 30 seconds of cleaning it out (really rich) it ran fine, iono??? anyone ever had leaded race gas (sunoco 112) ruin a fpr or pump? i have been running my pump low lately, and actually completely out at one point last week, but i can hear it kick on when i click the key over, everything is normal, i can hear the pump, light comes on and goes off and i can hear the main relay click...

ABK

I've got j12 cut on my car for datalogging issues it runs fine with it cut. Check your timing see if timing belt skipped (or adj cam gear if you got one). Try pulling the plugs out if you are saying that they were soaked and throw them in the oven and let the cylinders dry up. Maybe you dumped **** load of fuel in somehow and they just foul out under compression.

jarvis199

ill try that this evening and i am also going to check my timing too... thanks guys

jarvis199

ok guys more news...

so far ive tried THREE different fpr's...

went from the b&m ive been using for years, and swapped in astocker, car started right up then last night had it refuse to start again, and when out about an huor ago and put another stocker on and fired right up!!! makes no sence!!!

started it up tonight and got it to my wifes fathers house, and shut it off and tried to retart and NOTHING, just like before, crank, itll hit a LITTLE then die...

swapped in another walbro pump and left the sock off just in case it was clogged and still wont start, installed a new autometer fuel pressure guage in place of the b&m and it reads 2 psi lower than before...

after cranking for about 20 minutes i pulled the return line off the regulator and noticed it was bone dry...

im still confused, but at least now i know its nothing major, if pulling the regulator off and putting it back on makes it start lol... and i noticed tonight in vac it was running really rich... im going to remove my tuned vac map tomarrow (just copy and paste in the vac portions and leave the tuned boost alone) and put a basemap back in and see if it starts on it...

anymore help would be great!!!

agrn93ls

well if the FPR was dry after cranking for 20 minutes then you know you are not getting Fuel Pressure when its not starting. so fist thing i would do is hook a test light or voltmeter up to the fuel pump and when it cranks and dosent start i would look back to see if there is voltage going to the pump. start there no voltage no fuel pressure means electrical feed issue to pump. voltage no fuel pressure means bad pump

jarvis199

i left the sock off the fuel pump this time so i can hear it LOUDDD... and i had a b&m fuel pressure guage on it and it read good, and swapped it out to another brand new autometer just to be sure and fuel pressure is still good...

im going to try messing wtih the tune in a bit, thinking maybe something changed it, cant pinpoint what, but ill update this in a few hours after i try a few things...