hi, would just like to know if there's a general rule of thumb on checking for boost leaks, for example:
- which component is the most likely culprit, the next most likely, and so on logically so that no time is wasted looking all over the place
- what are the typical diy fixes (short of replacing the offending part or coupler or pipe)

ty

 

slow honda?

ohh wait..they all are!!

 

i just HAD to get an idiot to answer my perfectly legitimate question.

 

try doing a smoke check...there was a thread a couple months ago about a budget home depot type kit..should defiently find where the leak is coming from

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondaPSi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i just HAD to get an idiot to answer my perfectly legitimate question. </TD></TR></TABLE>

hey youre on HT... what do you expect? haha anyways id just double check all the couplers and make sure that there are no tears in them and make sure that they are on the charge pipes good and tight... next id check the intercooler for any cracks... then the BOV(dsm bov's tend to leak at higher boost pressures)... check all the vaccume lines and replace any that you are unsure of... the boost gauge could also leak a little bit i guess... then just make sure that all your bolts holding your IM and TB are tight... does your car idle fine?
-Josh

 

most of the leaks i experienced while tunning a car is from the blow off valves. lock the BOV's a little tight or get a greddy Type R style BOV. also reclamp all the couplers and tighten down IM good. check also for any cracked vacuum lines

 

12sec&gt; hmm the smoke check sounds interesting, i'll search that

crimson&gt; actually started fiddling around after my boost at wot dropped to .45 bar from .65, spool up was erratic too. turns out one of the bolts on the tb was loose. now boost is at .5 flat. better, but still not there...

boosted&gt; well, i have a dsm bov, and it hasn't been crushed yet. ehh i should probably spring for a new bov. they're getting cheaper everyday

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondaPSi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i just HAD to get an idiot to answer my perfectly legitimate question. </TD></TR></TABLE>

you the idiot asking a simple question

 

id crush your dsm bov in the meantime though... how much boost are you running?
-Josh

 

9.5psi, t3 .42/.48 on stock internals and uberdata. yknow i also did a compression test - 90 60 60 90. my rings are just about done... just a thought, but could the low compression be causing that erratic spool and missing .15 bar?

 

U can make a home leak detector...I saw it once on a dSM site.

Basically they got a coupling from home depot that would fit INSIDE your compressor inlet very snug.

They clamped a lid inside the coupling so no air could get past.

I think they then used a valve stem or something hollow, drilled a hole in the lid and slide the stem through.

Then hook up an air supply (bike pump, compressor etc....) being careful not to run too much psi in the motor (watch your boost gauge) 10psi should be fine. and Listen for leaks (hissing sound)

 

We use something very similar to that, and also very simple. It's basically the same as that except with a piece of hose attached to it to make things easier to get to.

You need a coupler that fits OVER the compressor inlet, a PVC end cap that fits inside that coupler, a 2-3' piece of hose, and a valvestem.

Drill a hole in the PVC endcap just big enough for the hose to fit it, and glue/JB weld it and make sure it doesn't leak. Then put the valvestem in the other end of the hose and make sure that doesn't leak either. Then just slide the open end of the PVC endcap into the coupler and clamp it.

Whenever I pressure test I start by just listening for leaks. If they're big enough you'll easily be able to hear and feel where they're coming from. Once the big once are fixed, get yourself a spray bottle with soapy water and spray it on areas that may be leaking. Once you think everything is fixed have somebody watch your boost gauge while you pressurize it. It won't hold boost completely, but it should fall off very slowly. I'm usually happy once I get that result

I would check all of your welds, couplers, and BOV flange.

 

thanks for all the info, guys. really appreciate it