Ok after some saving, I finally able to build my Gsr, here's the built that

9:1 arias piston 81.50
Eagle rod h bean
Arp head stud
Honda thrust bearing
Honda rod bearing
Honda main bearing
New oil pump
Cometic head gasket 81.5
Blockguard????(blox)

Machine shop will wash the block, install blackguard then bore
N hone, then deck it. And gap the rings (setup for 18lbs)
Fully balance rotating assembly

Now the shop I bought all the part from told me I need a blockguard becuz the cyclinder wall will walk? Or something like that during high boost.
Here's the thing I heard alot negative about block guard, also
The machine shop said blockguard must be install before bore n hone
I already got it, it's a blox it great shape. Pull off a block that have issue with no1 block guard was tight on 3 n 4 lose on 1 n 2, cover with crap,
It install after bore n hone, anyway, what u guys think? Blockguard or no?
I aiming for 350whp daily on a 57trim

 

No

 

i think its really on you if you want to install the blockguard. i'm also in the process of building my block and its almost the same setup but i'm using a Ls block and 81.5 CP pistons. I am planning on using a Golden Eagle blockguard...cause i've been reading about blockguards and like always there are good and bad experiences about them...so i rather go with what I think thats why i am gonna use a blockguard but whatever you decide on good luck...

 

As long as it fits perfectly around your sleeves and matches your head gasket perfect you will be fine. It's not true that it WILL walk. It COULD. I have an Arizone Race & Machine block guard in mine that matches perfect to the head gasket and was also welded to the block then plained, honed etc..

 

no

 

a good tune on e85 your sleeves should handle it. Ive heard alot of issues with block guard creating over heating issues.

 

haha doesnt even need E85 to touch mid 300's

 

tru if the block guard doesnt have the right amount of holes to let coolant flow thru if am not mistaken.
Bt with the right set up i dont see why not.

 

exactly. If the blox block gaurd you bought doesn't match correctly, don't use it. There is no reason you should have over heating usues at all if everything matches. phearable.net is making 590whp on stock sleeves with golden eagle block gaurd and 93 octane.

 

I have been using one for the last 2 years with no issues. My tuner recommended one and I trust him, plus my friend and motor builder builder recommended it and I trust him even more. It's deffinatly not a replacement for sleeves, but I think it does help.

 

i opted out on the block guard because i dont like the cooling disadvantages and how it distorts the sleeves when you torque the head down.

 

no

 

yes

 

Ive been using a BDL block guard on my daily 81.5 B16 for over 2 years @18-20 psi on 91 octane. No over heating problems ever. If installed, make sure its done before its bored and hone like stated

 

blockguards are a little insurance...if you want safty just sleeve it. Darton sleeves cost about $600, 600+machine shop cost of pressing them = much better long term investment. honostly a blockguard wont help you that much...

 

i have been using a gold eagle bock gaurd in my D series, when i had the block at the machine shop they tac welded it into place so it wont walk then they decked the block. absolutely no cooling issues been using it for at least 5 years now and im almost certain the engine would not have lasted this long with out it

 

Man, so many yes and no, my goal is about 350whp, the tuner recommend me to use it, and the machine shop said need to be install correctly becuz they domt always drop in, I m plan on sleeving the block, but no right now. I had a bad exprience with the current blockguard, we install into the block, and no1 will not seal, coolant and oil mixture and fuel, so I don't know becuz we install the blockgaurd after it's been hone n bore? Or just something else or blockguard screw up, but other then the sleeve, I had everything that a
Strong motor, and it be running on Crome
Pro on 7lbs only, and when I ready to go up on boost then I run hondata s300 and dyno tune it, but then I would be running alot more boost, 16-18, but come down to the turbo size too.
With that blockguard we never over heat but just keep getting coolant and oil
Mix in,

 

the thing thats gona damage the sleeves will be knock(detonation) and high torsional loads on the sleeves from side to side, dont get me wrong block guards are good in some applications, i just dont like the risks involved, regardless of how well coolant gets passed, they create a hot spot on the sleeve, and they prevent the sleeve from moving and going back into round again when the head is torqued down. Imo i just dont like the disadvantages associated with using one. On a low rpm motor i see no reason for it, however on a high rpm motor, i would rather see you opt for a block girdle (or upgraded one) for higher rpm stability, rather the guard.

 

Is a Gsr, already have gridle, and I staying at stock 8200 Redline, does I need to worry about that or?

 

then honestly, i wouldnt worry about it at all, no reason for a block guard, if the sleeves are gona crack, your pushing so much boost that a block guard wont save you lol

 

and if after all of this, you still wind up wanting to put the guard in, at the very least, go with a golden eagle block guard, as they are designed the best

 

if somethings going to happen to your sleeves I highly doubt a 100 dollar blox block guard is going to save them..

 

block guard isnt gonna stop the sleeves from cracking

 

dont think of a block guard as guarding anything really,

think of it as a brace against the sleeves to prevent them from walking.

walking happens when you rev rediculous rpm,

so if your staying below 9k rpm, no need for one really, it wont do you any good

 

No