Which block to use after cracking sleeves
I recently cracked my sleeves in my ls vtec turbo. Type r head with CTR cams, mild p&p. Ls block ls crank, eagle ls rods, JE 9.0:1 pistons. Gt35r turbo, inline pro log mani, 3" dp to thermal 3" exhaust, etc, etc. I have a spare gsr block laying around that has a cracked sleeve. I was looking into sleeving my ls but read up that the GSR with ls crank/rods is better and stronger. Should i sleeve the GSR or the LS? Im just confused about how im already ls vtec would it still work if i use the GSR block? Just take out the allen screw on the bottom of the head and not run the ls vtec oil line from the block from the head and it will work like how it should? I will get the golden eagle block off bolts for the oil squirters. Going with ERL or GE sleeves havent came down who im picking. Also will my Moroso oil pan for the ls/b16 fit the GSR with the main gridle or will it get in the way?
Ok thanks guys. Do i have to take out the screw that i tapped for my head and i also i dont need to run the ls vtec line anymore if i use the gsr?
^^ This!
A true 2.0L block
Yes take out the plug, the GSR block utilizes an oil port for lubrication and VTEC function. You will NOT need an oil line with a GSR block. Basically, revert everything back to the way it was before modifying for the LS/Vtec setup.
A true 2.0L block
Yes take out the plug, the GSR block utilizes an oil port for lubrication and VTEC function. You will NOT need an oil line with a GSR block. Basically, revert everything back to the way it was before modifying for the LS/Vtec setup.
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Use the GSR block, you get rid of the lsvtec contraption **** and the LS crank gives you more torque. This is what ive been running for years. Currently was on an LS block because i damaged my gsr block from a wrist pin clip failing. Now that my sleeves all cracked in my LS block i will be sleeving my GSR block and going back to that setup with ls crank.
First off. Thanks for your smart *** reply. Im mentioning b20 because who can argue that this block isnt nearly identical to the other b series mentioned? Anyways. The b20 has a figure 8 aluminum and steel casting. Vs all the other b series which have individual steel linings which run to the base of the block (which also supports aftermarket sleeves) so in general the b20 blocks have a figure 8 supporting aftermarket sleeves vs individual bases. Whxih makes them not as strong. Do some homework ya?
First off. Thanks for your smart *** reply. Im mentioning b20 because who can argue that this block isnt nearly identical to the other b series mentioned? Anyways. The b20 has a figure 8 aluminum and steel casting. Vs all the other b series which have individual steel linings which run to the base of the block (which also supports aftermarket sleeves) so in general the b20 blocks have a figure 8 supporting aftermarket sleeves vs individual bases. Whxih makes them not as strong. Do some homework ya?
Edit: And really, you say they are very similar so they are worth mentioning but their only difference is their sleeves, and since this is a question about sleeves the b20 sleeve problems won't even apply to his ls or gsr block. So I guess I am still wondering why you mention the b20.
Last edited by 90 integra da; Mar 4, 2013 at 12:13 PM.
Well im sorry i took it offensively when you asked why i mentioned b20. Its just the common mistake people use. I would never spend the extra money to sleeve a b20 and thats the main reason why
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Absolutely. GE sleeve it to 84mm and use the LS crank
