<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tobe1424 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">whats so bad about block guards why are most ppl against it...i think its way cheaper to put a block guard than to sleeve your block</TD></TR></TABLE>

reduced coolant flow..............what do you guys think about sleeving a d series (z6) block... im looking for about 300+ whp at max boost tuned should i sleeve it or just leave it stock??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CivicMike &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

reduced coolant flow..............what do you guys think about sleeving a d series (z6) block... im looking for about 300+ whp at max boost tuned should i sleeve it or just leave it stock??</TD></TR></TABLE>

stock block will be adequate

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tobe1424 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">whats so bad about block guards why are most ppl against it...i think its way cheaper to put a block guard than to sleeve your block</TD></TR></TABLE>


Because they are not needed. No one can prove that they prevent your sleeves from cracking, but anyone can see that good power can be made without them on stock sleeves.

 

Basically no one knows if a blockguard is good or bad. It's one of those things you just can't prove.

Someone could say "my motor made 500whp with a blockguard, so they must work" or someone could say "it kept my sleeves from flexing and my block warped so they must be bad."

I personally think that your sleeves will flex too much without the guard which is bad. But with the guard, the sleeves won't be able to flex at all which could warp your block. And if your screwed either with or without the guard, you might as well do it without the guard and save yourself the $100.

And for the record, I don't think that any blockguards have ever caused coolant flow issues. Except maybe the really old-school designs.

 

My thing is this:
You spend a lot of your hard earned $ on things like
1. The head and valvetrain
2. Cams
3. Rods
4. Pistons
5. Engine building, assembly, balancing,, etc.
6. All the time and money to take the engine out of the car and replace it.
7. All your time, depending on how much your time is worth to you

All these things for what? So you can skimp on the block to save a few hundred dollars??? I did that once a long time ago. I ended up having to build an entirely new motor because a sleeve cracked, the piston ( Arias ) skirt got locked into the crack, broke the rod ( Crower ) then the broken rod shoved the piston into the head killing the valves, broke a cam, put a hole on the block ( rendering it useless ) and so on and so forth. All of this happened while I was taking this girl on a date in my car!!! Needless to say, I will never trust a stock block again. If I had sleeved it from the start, that would have been a lot of $$$$$ I could have saved and one more girl I could have.... well... you know.

My saying is this "People never have the time and money to do it right, but they always seem to have the time and money to do it twice!"

Sleeve it.

 

The thing is, stock sleeves can handle alot of power IF everything is perfect. Unfortunately, we live in the real world. **** happens. There will be a point sometime or another where there will be a little bit of detonation and where a sleeved motor would just laugh it off, the stock sleeves will be in pieces. It's one thing to make 600hp on stock sleeves on the dyno and run it at the track every once in a while on race gas, but nobody can deny that the reliability of the stock sleeves at big power levels is not nearly that of aftermarket sleeves. I agree completely with Vince, in the big picture of building a motor, all the time involved and all, why skimp on $700 or so when it can end up costing you 5 times that when a sleeve breaks. Pretty much the same as I feel about Eagle rods, why save $300 when it can cost you 10 times that if it breaks. I guess even more of a factor for me is the time, who wants to pull a half *** built motor out of a car to completely rebuild it again. Maybe i'm just lazy, but not me!

If it's a stock motor then that's one thing, but if you're gonna build it, build it right so you don't have to worry about it!