ok i bought a block guard for my b16 turbo set up. now i am hesitant to put it in. ive been hearing good and bad about them. will i be ok to put it in. or should i just leave it out of the motor?

 

if you already bought it why don't you just put it in?

 

i heard you can have cooling problems not enough flow and leads for overheating i wouldnt go wiht one for that reason

 

i bought the one that has the precision drilled coolant holes in it. supposedly fixes the problem from the solid ones that were manufactured first to close the open decks of b series motors.

 

What kind of hp are you aiming for first of all? In "theory" they can cause cooling problems, but I've never heard of an engine failing because of a stinking block guard...I would use it.

 

This subject has been beat to death, I would tell you to search but since Im already posting Ill spill what I know about blockguards. To be properly installed, you must have a deckplate to simulate the head being on the block and then heat the block to proper operating temp and then install it. Once its installed, you must make sure the cyl. walls are still in spec and and make sure that they dont need a hone job. Thats if you want to install one properly. A majority of people take a hammer and just pound it in and call it a day. Blockguards have been known to cause hotspots where they are installed becuase they are not very good at letting the heat disapate from the cyl. wall. Honnestly I dont see why you would want to run one. With proper tuning people have pushed well over 400hp on the stock D, B and H series sleeves.

hth

Blaze

 

yeah. good info. just incase you didnt read i bought one with the precision drilled coolant holes. not an ebay special. i got one from eagle. maybe it doesnt matter. but i still just wanna put that out there.

 

Coolant holes or no, if you don't install it the right way you're asking for problems.

 

installed mine 1/2 inch below the deck.. it has holes. Welded it in place so that it can't move up or down & i've been running the **** out of my car. No problems yet. 20psi (garrett .60/.63), pump gas, stock sleeves, no probs!

forged internals of course!

 

welded?! can you explain better? what did you weld it to? pics?

 

You want to be able to install the block guard without having to force it in. You can do it the way Blaze45 said (I imagine many people <U>don't</U> have the means to do it that way), or you can file it down until it slips snugly into place. Once it's in place you can (don't have to) tack weld it to the block for extra insurance. Then, if necessary, you hone the cylinders to make sure they're all good (the sleeves may shift). Either way, you don't ever need one on a B-series. If you're making too much power for stock sleeves, a guard isn't gonna help and you'll want aftermarket sleeves. Stock sleeved B-series with forged internals have handled at least 400whp. What kind of power are you looking for?!


Modified by TheHooded_Mike at 10:34 PM 9/27/2006

 

im looking for around 300whp with this build. how much boost/whp are stock honda sleeves good for? 400whp? more? less?

 

No problems with blockguard here. Block is bored&honed after blockguard install.

 

so you installed you block guard and then got your cylinders bored and honed?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94hatchvx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im looking for around 300whp with this build.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You dont need to worry about a blockguard if you are only looking for 300whp people do this with a compleatly stock motor with no problems..... people are running 500+ whp on stock sleeves

 

ok thanks. i have a 92 hatch with a b16. my setup is: stock oil pan,stock crank,eagle rods with arp rod bolts,acl race bearings,wiesco low compression pistons,oem rings,"bought a block guard but thinking of refund",arp head studs,all new oem gaskets including head,type r oil pump,hasport mounts,oem water pump and t-stat,dsm 450cc w/resistor box,stock fuel rail and reg.,port polished head with type r dual valve springs and itr cams,stock cam gears,ported & matched IM and TB,vafc,chipped p28,log style manifold 2 1/2" piping,manual boost controller,1g bov. i am at 250 whp right now with a stock dsm 14b and a dsm side mount. what will i need to go around 350 to maybe 400 whp? before anyone sais anything, i know its all in the tune,im just wondering parts wise. tuning,fuel managment etc.. thanks

 

after dinner bump

 

I agree with BoostedEG6, 300 is nothing on a b16 with forged internals - barely breakin a sweat. For a max of 400hp you'll want 660cc injectors, a better intercooler (front mount is better no matter what), and obviously a bigger turbo. A t3/t04e is always a good choice from what I've seen...I personally think that a 50 trim w/ .63 a/r is the perfect size. For a goal of 350-400 going bigger than that will only give you more lag, and smaller might hurt your top end and make it harder to reach your power goal. You must've heard about all the tuning options out there (if not, do a search) - I would use crome if you're on any kind of budget.

 

ok. good to know. i already have a manifold flanged for the mitubishi turbos. so i think my next turbo is going to be the evo 16g. i also found a guy that will sell me a stock srt4 intercooler for 50 bucks. dont know much about um. good intercoolers? and i can get the inj. the only thing i dont know much about is chrome. is there a site that has info and sells it?what is it?

 

http://tunewithcrome.com/
http://www.pgmfi.org/twiki/bin/view/Home/WebHome&lt;~~tuning forum, info library, etc.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1703520&lt;~~shows you how to chip your ecu, or they'll do it for you

Crome is free, all you do is download it. There is also a pay version called Crome Pro that has extra features though. Then you need a wideband O2 sensor to tune your air/fuel ratio, and get on a dyno to tune timing. That is if you want to learn all about that stuff and tune it yourself...the easiest way is to pay someone experienced to tune it though, and they can burn you a chip.

 

if i already have my ecu socketed alls i have to do is take it to my tuner and have him download the chrome program onto his lap top and then have him burn me a chip and thats it? that would be awesome. lots of useful info! thanks!

 

Ya that's it...crome is probably the best free tuning software out right now but there are others too. I'm pretty sure that crome has the most support out of all of them. You should use whatever program your tuner is most familiar with though. Also, I'm not positive but I don't think the 16g could quite hit 400 on a B16...more like 350 I would guess, but don't quote me on that. Don't let that scare you away from it though because it's an awesome turbo and 350hp is no joke.

 

yeah. im not looking to go way big. gonna take it in steps. plus im gonna get a great deal on one cause a friend of mine is going bigger this winter.on his b16 it pulls hard all the way to red line.(on his b16 he is revving it to 8000) so it will be a good turbo for me. he sais it is one of the best street driven turbos you can get for a b16. due to the quick spool time and good top end.

 

Ya it seems like a <U>really</U> good match for a b16. People on ht tend to go too big with turbos (in my opinion), and always go for crazy power...like 400+. The fact is that on the street, 350 is plenty and with any more you'll likely be spinning your *** off through third gear. I think it's best to set a goal and get the smallest turbo that will get you there.

 

I run a blockguard and its perfectly fine. All i can say is make sure its installed correctly.