block gaurd
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block gaurd
im getting ready to do my head gasket (oem) and arp install on my stock d16 with a t3 turbo, just wondering if i should get a block gaurd or not. i searched and found alot of opinions on built motors but not on stock. any help would be great.
#2
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Re: block gaurd (bigapple427)
The general concensus would be no. Block guards have to be professionaly installed, welded in place, and this must be done before block machining.
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Re: block gaurd (beepy)
I have no experience with block guards, but the sleeves aren't the weak point in our hondas until you reach past 400-450whp. Jeff evans just tuned one on stock sleeves at 600whp, so the stock sleeves can take a beating .
Edit: Beepy what is your Avatar...i can't figure it out and it's starting to **** ME OFF..lol j/k
Edit: Beepy what is your Avatar...i can't figure it out and it's starting to **** ME OFF..lol j/k
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Re: block gaurd (adseguy)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by adseguy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Edit: Beepy what is your Avatar...i can't figure it out and it's starting to **** ME OFF..lol j/k </TD></TR></TABLE>
It says "young-oh/mi-guk"... it means, "English(the language)/America"...
I don't know what it's supposed to mean, but that's how it reads in Korean. So, what's it supposed to mean? I've wondered the same thing.
Edit: Beepy what is your Avatar...i can't figure it out and it's starting to **** ME OFF..lol j/k </TD></TR></TABLE>
It says "young-oh/mi-guk"... it means, "English(the language)/America"...
I don't know what it's supposed to mean, but that's how it reads in Korean. So, what's it supposed to mean? I've wondered the same thing.
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Re: block gaurd (EJ1 wilcox)
don't use the block guard unless you're going to tear the engine down and get it bored and honed. Block guards can be a great thing if installed properly but they get a bad name from the people that just pull the head and drop them in expecting them to work. Which D16 do you have? If it's a Y8 you can probly find an upgraded HG, use that and some ARP head studs and you'll be good to go.
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Re: block gaurd (SlowB16si)
ive got the d16z6 and from what ive read on this site is that the factory heah gasket is the best. so thats what i got. just dont want any head lift problems again.
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#8
Re: block gaurd (bigapple427)
Back your timing down a little. I have a d16z6 and haven't had any troubles after getting ARP's (torqued to 65ft/lbs with the ARP lube), a new OEM headgasket, and backing my timing down. I am running like 17* total up top I think.
#10
Re: block gaurd (bigapple427)
What fuel management are you running?
I am running uberdata, so I just opened my bin up and took a few degrees of timing off, then burned another chip.
I am running uberdata, so I just opened my bin up and took a few degrees of timing off, then burned another chip.
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Re: block gaurd (bigapple427)
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Re: block gaurd (beerbongskickass)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by beerbongskickass »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Back your timing down a little. I have a d16z6 and haven't had any troubles after getting ARP's (torqued to 65ft/lbs with the ARP lube), a new OEM headgasket, and backing my timing down. I am running like 17* total up top I think.</TD></TR></TABLE>
65ft/lbs even if the factory recommends 22/53, respectively?
65ft/lbs even if the factory recommends 22/53, respectively?
#14
Re: block gaurd (clean90Si)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by clean90Si »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">65ft/lbs even if the factory recommends 22/53, respectively?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I went by the directions I got with the head studs. If I remember right ARP recommends 60 ft/lbs with the provided moly lube and a little more with oil. Stock honda bolts are less of course (53ft/lbs or so?).
I hand tightend my ARP's and torqued in sequence to 25ft/lbs, 40ft/lbs, 65ft/lbs. It has worked great for me so far, no head lifting issues. I did a lot of research on this and found a lot of different answers from different respected engine builders. Some people do as much as 70-80ft/lbs, some actually do less (around 40ft/lbs).
I went by the directions I got with the head studs. If I remember right ARP recommends 60 ft/lbs with the provided moly lube and a little more with oil. Stock honda bolts are less of course (53ft/lbs or so?).
I hand tightend my ARP's and torqued in sequence to 25ft/lbs, 40ft/lbs, 65ft/lbs. It has worked great for me so far, no head lifting issues. I did a lot of research on this and found a lot of different answers from different respected engine builders. Some people do as much as 70-80ft/lbs, some actually do less (around 40ft/lbs).
#15
Re: block gaurd (bigapple427)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bigapple427 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">still running old school fmu, just socketed my ecu looking for tuner for uberdata. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Well just have your tuner keep the timing nice and safe when you switch to uberdata, and you should be fine. Not much you can do about it with an FMU though.
Well just have your tuner keep the timing nice and safe when you switch to uberdata, and you should be fine. Not much you can do about it with an FMU though.
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