it is stepped to exactly 112 thou all around... which my engine shop got from a spec sheet they use

 

would the step on an LS flywheel be durastically different then the b16 flywheel?

im on the phone with my machine shop right now

 

calling you now.

 

I am having the exact same problem. Think its the pressure plate. Replaced master, slave, lines. Will not go into gear while motor is running. Worked for about 600 miles thou. New pressure plate ordered.

 

I am glad that the guys from CC have good service to ge this problem solved .

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blackpearlcivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I am glad that the guys from CC have good service to ge this problem solved .</TD></TR></TABLE>

X2

Just got my clutch today from Chris. Super friendly. Good guy. Im sure he will help you out as best he can.

Good luck. I hope its just air

 

I already have tryed 5min with a pall to get all the air out end i think that everything is fine now.Butt at the shop where i work whe have a tool to get al the air out and that is what i am going to try.And i am also placing a new throwout bearing.Butt this is going to be 4e time that i am pulling the tranny off for this problem.

 

I didn't see anyone mention possibly adjusting the throwout down near the clutch pedal.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mike1114 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I didn't see anyone mention possibly adjusting the throwout down near the clutch pedal.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Theres no way that that adjustmant would cause the clutch to not engage <u>at all</u>, because it has never changed and was working fine with the other clutch. Might throw it off, but not that much.

 

Ryan did you check the master cylinder under the dash like I mentioned? It might push your stock clutch fine but if it is bad then it won't push a beefy stage 5.
Either that or you still have air in the lines.

 

naw man, the lines were bled. and the fork is moving the proper distance..

I replaced the slave, and it was doing the same thing..
I did not replace the master, but I am going to rip the clutch back out, and check things over..

to Competition Clutch service... He called me and did his best to help me out.. we still couldnt find the problem..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mike1114 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I didn't see anyone mention possibly adjusting the throwout down near the clutch pedal.</TD></TR></TABLE>

If your talking about clutch free play then yes its a good thing to check when installing a new clutch... but i would be amazed if the free play was off that much to not allow it to engage. Pretty insane. I installed my exedy 3 puck clutch instead of the stocker and never had to adjust my free play at all

 

ive had a few different clutches in my car over the years... stock and aftermarket, and ive never had a problem like this

one year i had an OEM one crap out on me, and it did the same thing as this, but that was springs in the clutch gone bad... this clutch has no springs

 

it is possible to put the disc in backwards, i know people that have done it, and it has all the same symptoms you are describing. if its not air in the line, and bad cylinders, check the disc

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Garage 808 Hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it is possible to put the disc in backwards, i know people that have done it, and it has all the same symptoms you are describing. if its not air in the line, and bad cylinders, check the disc</TD></TR></TABLE>

I was thinking the same thing, i was pretty sure it was possible to install incorrectly. The spring between the friction material would be facing the wrong way which i would assume would not allow it to engage correctly. Ima check it out in my manual transmissions book

Was lookin thru it and it would be pretty hard to miss installing the clutch disk wrong... unless someone didnt know what they were doing. But whatever, i say that clutch sucks


Modified by ForceFed_Motorsports at 3:23 PM 6/3/2007

 

air in the lines, bad cylinder, or they took too much off the flywheel.

 

the flywheel is only 2 thousands off what they recommend.
Im almost 100% positive that the disc cant go in backwards...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Topdawgg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the flywheel is only 2 thousands off what they recommend.
Im almost 100% positive that the disc cant go in backwards...</TD></TR></TABLE>

did you measure it yourself?

 

it was measured at the machine/engine shop around here....
and competition clutch told me that they recommend 110 thou, im at 112 thou

 

i'm having a similar probelm with my act xtss for my civic.

When its cold it shifts fine, as soon as i drive for a little bit it gets harder and harder to change gears. And to change gears i have to literally stomp the floor and shift at the same time lol.

when this happens i can have the clutch pedal fully depressed and in 1st gear, and the car with start to move forward by itself.

I think its the pressure plate took a dump. What I cant understand though is why it shifts fine when its cold.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by willyboyK20 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i'm having a similar probelm with my act xtss for my civic.

When its cold it shifts fine, as soon as i drive for a little bit it gets harder and harder to change gears. And to change gears i have to literally stomp the floor and shift at the same time lol.

when this happens i can have the clutch pedal fully depressed and in 1st gear, and the car with start to move forward by itself.

I think its the pressure plate took a dump. What I cant understand though is why it shifts fine when its cold.</TD></TR></TABLE>

because of the temperature change, sounds like you have a fluid problem or a transmission/fluid problem. try flushing your clutch fluid then changing the trans fluid.

 

i had this problem with mine....my problem was the disc was just a lil to tite on the tranny spline...and it wouldnt slide....so i took it apart and rubbed a file in and out of every noutch on the clutch disc...untill i could slide the disc on and off the tranny shaft...put it back together and it works fine now....i told tony to tell u my story..might be ur problem to?..maybe not?

 

Is CC sure that you dont have a bad clutch kit or rather bad pressure plate?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Topdawgg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok, well if I can move the slave all the way to the bottom, and it holds pressure when I do it... then what could It be...

Ive tried bleeding again...

takin the line from the bleeder to a jug of fluid... pushin the pedal down all the way and bringin it back up slowly...
No change, unless I havent done it long enough... I did it about 10 times..</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm just reading back through the thread and to me it looks like you are saying you are bleeding the lines alone. If you are pushing the clutch and then letting it back out with the bleeder open you are definately getting air. I may have miss read but just want to get that out of the picture. If you want to bleed alone the best thing you can do without the proper tool is to open the bleeder, and just keep adding fluid. I did this with my clutch the last time and ran about 3/4 of a small bottle through it and it was good after. Actually was better than when I had a second person helping. It'll take a little bit cause it is just gravity feeding slowly but it works good. Maybe just give that a try before pulling the tranny again.

 

naw, my old man came home, I was bleeding alone... but then we both did it..