Benson Offset Bore LS Block
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by earl »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Here you go
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That doesn't look offset to me?
Is it that they are just barely offset so you can't really see it?
Or am I missing something all together?
How about a pic of the rod mod?
</TD></TR></TABLE>That doesn't look offset to me?
Is it that they are just barely offset so you can't really see it?
Or am I missing something all together?
How about a pic of the rod mod?
ya, you guys might not be as interested as I am because I am actually lookin to do something like this with an all motor K series...
From what I can find (which is very litle) there are not to many people doing this, for a few reasons I'm sure. I am just trying to consume any information I can find on this offset setup, this was one of teh few examples I could find...
From what I can find (which is very litle) there are not to many people doing this, for a few reasons I'm sure. I am just trying to consume any information I can find on this offset setup, this was one of teh few examples I could find...
What is your question?
If you take the bores and seperate the #2 + #3 by .5mm each (1mm total) then push the #1 and #4 cylinders out 1mm each, you'll have more space between the bores and you'll be able to bore each hole out a little farther.
The wider rods he was talking about, if you make them the correct size by shaving one side more than the other this will center the rod under the piston again. You would shave them the same as you moved the bores .5 on the inside rods and 1.0 on the outside cylinders.
I've heard of this done to all kinds of stuff before but the machined rods is a new twist. It's a great idea which would help keep the small end of the rod from wearing out and also help the bore/piston from wearing.
The part that is a bitch is you need pistions with reliefs cut offset so they are back under the valves again and if this engine has dome pistons the domes need to be offset back under the cumbustion chambers too.
The VR6 thing the other guy was talking about is the same idea but used in the other direction. Instead of the bores being moved out from the center between #2+#3, the bores are pushed away from a center line that runs though all the bores. If you are looking down at your B engine standing in front of your radiator, bores #1+#3 would be pushed toward the intake manifold and #2+#4 pushed toward the exhaust manifold.
Easier to understand now?
The bitch of the VR6 style offset is that it would need custom pistons, and custom camshafts. Custom cams because now TDC has been moved too. Running stock cams would mean that now the forward cylinders would be (without mapping it, just guessing) advanced 4 degrees and the rears would be retarded 4 degrees.
The other thing about the VR6 style is you are still limited by the bore spacing because at the bottom of your new V4 the cylinders are still close to each other. So eventually you would bore into the cylinder next to you down by the crank. While the head gasket side, the top of the V, would still still be fine.
It still works though up to a point because you have gained area between the cylinders for the head gasket to seal to. Which was what was lacking in a too big bore engine.
If you take the bores and seperate the #2 + #3 by .5mm each (1mm total) then push the #1 and #4 cylinders out 1mm each, you'll have more space between the bores and you'll be able to bore each hole out a little farther.
The wider rods he was talking about, if you make them the correct size by shaving one side more than the other this will center the rod under the piston again. You would shave them the same as you moved the bores .5 on the inside rods and 1.0 on the outside cylinders.
I've heard of this done to all kinds of stuff before but the machined rods is a new twist. It's a great idea which would help keep the small end of the rod from wearing out and also help the bore/piston from wearing.
The part that is a bitch is you need pistions with reliefs cut offset so they are back under the valves again and if this engine has dome pistons the domes need to be offset back under the cumbustion chambers too.
The VR6 thing the other guy was talking about is the same idea but used in the other direction. Instead of the bores being moved out from the center between #2+#3, the bores are pushed away from a center line that runs though all the bores. If you are looking down at your B engine standing in front of your radiator, bores #1+#3 would be pushed toward the intake manifold and #2+#4 pushed toward the exhaust manifold.
Easier to understand now?
The bitch of the VR6 style offset is that it would need custom pistons, and custom camshafts. Custom cams because now TDC has been moved too. Running stock cams would mean that now the forward cylinders would be (without mapping it, just guessing) advanced 4 degrees and the rears would be retarded 4 degrees.
The other thing about the VR6 style is you are still limited by the bore spacing because at the bottom of your new V4 the cylinders are still close to each other. So eventually you would bore into the cylinder next to you down by the crank. While the head gasket side, the top of the V, would still still be fine.
It still works though up to a point because you have gained area between the cylinders for the head gasket to seal to. Which was what was lacking in a too big bore engine.
Thanks Johnnie...
I like the V4 style idea better myself. I originally thought the VR6 (staggered style) was the only way, now that you explained it it makes a lot more sense...
Now I understand what the offset rods were for...
I like the V4 style idea better myself. I originally thought the VR6 (staggered style) was the only way, now that you explained it it makes a lot more sense...
Now I understand what the offset rods were for...
This has been done and fully built on a H- Series.. Check out the thread in the All-Motor forum started and built by PocketRocket Racing in Canada.. You can find the thread - it's your usual "Drama-Tech" thread, but most of the answers can be found there.
yah i saw that along with a couple other threads, which is the original reason I started looking in to this...
In the near future I would like to build an offset K24, and try and square it up as much as I can while keeping the OEM 99mm crank...
maybe 92mm bore
It's going to be an expensive project that is going to take a lot of research, and a good set of custom parts... It's going to be all motor so I am looking more towards the staggered setup...
I have a feeling I am going to need to talk to pocket Rocket a good deal about his setup.
Would the stagger offset V setup releave any stress from sidewall loading?
In the near future I would like to build an offset K24, and try and square it up as much as I can while keeping the OEM 99mm crank...
maybe 92mm bore
It's going to be an expensive project that is going to take a lot of research, and a good set of custom parts... It's going to be all motor so I am looking more towards the staggered setup...
I have a feeling I am going to need to talk to pocket Rocket a good deal about his setup.
Would the stagger offset V setup releave any stress from sidewall loading?
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