Beaded Pipe Necessary?
#1
Beaded Pipe Necessary?
I did a search and found nothing. Is it necessary to have beaded charge pipe? I plan on just using standard non-beaded pipe with silicone hose connectors and a single T-Bolt clamp on each side of the connector. Has anyone [that isn't boosting 30psi] had a problem with blowing your connectors off your charge pipe with using a single good T-Bolt clamp on each side?
And while we're on the subject, what about the small vacuum lines on my intake manifold? Should I worry about them blowing off [since they're too small to use a clamp on]? Right now I've got blue silicone vacuum hoses [for the bling], but I'd be willing to switch back to OEM rubber if necessary. The only reason I ask is because the blue silicone hoses seem to stretch a little and stay that way, not having that tight fit OEM rubber lines would...
And while we're on the subject, what about the small vacuum lines on my intake manifold? Should I worry about them blowing off [since they're too small to use a clamp on]? Right now I've got blue silicone vacuum hoses [for the bling], but I'd be willing to switch back to OEM rubber if necessary. The only reason I ask is because the blue silicone hoses seem to stretch a little and stay that way, not having that tight fit OEM rubber lines would...
#2
Re: Beaded Pipe Necessary? (DaX)
im interested other peoples experience as well. In my experience on a buddys car we were tightening the **** out of our t bolts at 20lbs and a few joints right after the turbo would always blow unless we tightened the t bars as tight as we could get them by hand without breaking them and they seemed to barely hold. The problem is our silicone couplers were real tight as it is to get on the pipe, getting it over a bead would be a bitch. We now tried puting some small dots with a welder on the edge and ground them down instead of a full blow bead, we are gonna see how that works this weekend.
#3
Re: Beaded Pipe Necessary? (omahaturbocivic)
i also have dots tacked evenly in 4-5 spots evenly around the edge... seems to give the couplers ALOT more bite on the piping. they are hardly raised and nice round tops, but they work well for me so far.
#4
Re: Beaded Pipe Necessary? (twkdCD595)
Yea I dont think the dots need to be raised more than a milimeter at most for the t bar clamp to not get past it. We ground ours in a barbed fashion to make the coupler go on easy but hopefully be secure.
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#8
Re: Beaded Pipe Necessary? (raene)
hairspray sounds like a good idea. I know on my car I painted the charge pipes and hooked em up while the paint was still a little tacky, the pipes were very stuck to the silicone the next time I tried to get them apart, I even ran one joint temporatily without a clamp at 10 psi and it held. On my buddys car we thought we were good untill we were on the dyno and they started popping off left and right after 18 psi, never had problems at anything lower. Sounded like a gun went off when they popped indoors.
#12
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Re: (DaX)
Me being the cheap *** that I am did not buy tbolt clamps.. my friend has a bead roller and we used it put a lip around all of my charge pipes. Have never had a problem since. And I had massive problems before doing that.
#14
Re: Beaded Pipe Necessary? (DaX)
you know i was thinking about using Elmers rubber cement on the charge pipes before slipping on the couplers. I think it might work pretty good, clean up would be really easy too b/c rubber cement just peels off like rubber when dry. you can catch a buzz from the fumes at the same time too!
#15
Re: Beaded Pipe Necessary? (evosol)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by evosol »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you can catch a buzz from the fumes at the same time too!</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah, why not just smoke a crack rock instead?
Yeah, why not just smoke a crack rock instead?
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