WannaRun??

I recently replaced some things on my car and when doing so I also swapped my vacuum lines to push-lock fittings. The car runs and drives fine but BBG is not working. I do fixed gear at different percentages 15%-85% (at increment differences of 10) but my boost is not lowering or raising, it is staying right at 16or17. It is not boost cutting and it is not running off the wastegate springs because they are for 9psi.

datalogs show the different pwm%'s but no psi change

Things that were changed that could have altered this

-converted from normal vacuum lines to push-lock
-extended the wiring for the boost solenoid
-rewired the head light harness (dont think that changed anything but who knows)

tepid1

Sounds like a possible bad connection (electrically) to the solenoid. Are you positive your air plumbing is correct?

Muckman

iTrader: (2)

Vary static duty to test pwm operation first. With engine off increase pwm static duty and listen for audible change in solenoid buzzing.
Confirm with EMS display or datalog that the conditions are met to output pwm duty.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

If you don't hear any buzzing then either there's a wiring issue, an ems issue or more likely the solenoid failed somehow

WannaRun??

I double checked the vacuum line plumbing and they are all done correctly. I am going to check the wiring tomorrow.

I have varied the pwm% and done pulls with different percentages only to find the same boost levels.

According to hondata the ecu is recognizing the different pwm%s but I do not know if that signal is getting to the solenoid. Is the buzzing loud? And will make the noise after each "upload" of a new pwm percentage?

tepid1

You should hear it clicking away when you turn the key on.

WannaRun??

So I listened for the clicking or buzzing and it clicks once when turning on the key but does not make any noise when the pwn %s are changed. I checked the wiring and redid it completely.

Does this mean the solenoid is bad? I have a retune in about a week so I am really trying to figure this out



Also, I switched the lines going into the solenoid and the boost pressure was still the same...

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

That sounds like a solenoid issue for sure, might want to double check the wiring again before tossing a solenoid at it if it isn't the solenoid

WannaRun??

yea, the wiring was double checked and is done well. I assume its the solenoid so I purchased a new MAC solenoid off ebay for $30, cost me $9 cause I had $21 in ebay bucks haha

lets hope this will fix it

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

eBay bucks are the best thing ever

Did you check the wiring inside the car at the ecu? Sometimes that gets overlooked. I'd hate for a problem like amperage draw to cook the new solenoid

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

Will a very low duty cycle number in the boost by gear table make you hit boost cut? Try putting like 10% duty cycle in the fields and see if it over boosts.

My car and my buddies car we had to take away duty cycle in the boost by gear fields to gain boost but in fixed duty cycle it worked normally as increasing duty cycle gave more boost. Never figured out why we just made adjustments to make it work lol.

WannaRun??

Yes, I checked all the way to the ecu, I made sure all factors were ruled out haha even switched Ecu's to make sure my "a11" plug was working.

And I've tested the %s all the way from 0 to 90. At each % the boost stayed relatively the same

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

Double check your 28 pins on the board. I had one resolver it self one time. Don't ask me how because I haven't a clue but I had to touch all mine with solder gun and a little solder and got things working again but it wasn't bbg related it was something else

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

That's weird, unless heat and vibration from making passes, burnouts, etc rattled the ecu. Normally only stress on the harness will cause something like that to happen but I've only seen it on tucked harnesses that didn't have enough slack in the cabin

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

No I'm talking about the 28 header pins desoldering. I do all my circuit board work so I know there were no dry sockets. I did this Ecu 8 years ago and been running since. Then after getting v2 hondata starting having issues. Never once had an issue with the old s300 board.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Oh ok I was confused for a second

WannaRun??

Yea we double checked the ecu, my buddy and I swapped Ecu's so I could make sure mine wasn't bad and if still had the same symptoms