I Have an STD

ok, i had my buddy fix a few leaks in my exhaust today (he can weld, i cant) took my whole turbo setup off, fixed everything, put it back on. he welded ONE thing on the car, a little tiny hole near the muffler.

now, the ecu was NOT connected during the welding, but i forgot to disconnect the battery (i work there, i was working on another car and wasnt paying attention)

now the car throws a solid cel, but its been doing that for weeks now, even though its been running great. and it wont idle. when it starts up, it sounds horrible and is running pig rich. blowing all sorts of black smoke. i dont see how i could have fried the ecu with it disconnected, but im sure its possible. any suggestions? ive got a friend who is SWEARING to me its gotta be the chip, so i had my other friend burn me another one. any suggestions?

BTW, setup is boosted y7/z6 combo, obd1 in a 90 std

Brett

Emshhh

im pretty sure i have the same exact problem as you...

bump for answer

I Have an STD

thanks for the free bump

0mtber

iTrader: (2)

If you have a solid cell:
A) Your ecu is not reading your eprom.
B) Your ecu is fried, to ensure this, cut the jumper on j1. If the solid cel goes away, then the problem exists in your chipping job or eprom.

DMax013

Just getting my setup complete and same exact problem. How could I tell if my ECU is blown, any visable things. Flat out dumping fuel and wont rev over 3 grand and idles rough as shyt til it stalls out. Also how could you blow an ECU, like what could cause it??

Harassing Herbs

its in limp mode.
first and foremost <U>READ THE UBERSITE!!!!!</U>
1-try reburning a new chip
2-check over your soldering job
3-try a different computer to see if it can idle
4-check over your bin file

blackeg

brett, sounds like limp mode. cut the j1 and see if it will stop the solid cel, then maybe try the new chip your friend is making you. if you need to borrow an ecu or need a chip or anything like that let me know i can swing down with the one in my car now...good luck dude

19sec beast

I'm having the same exact problem as well. I'm using Uberdata, too.

The only thing is, I've tried jumping it, but the CEL stays on. I've tried using my stock ECU to see how it idles but I have the same results... pig rich and idles like crap with the CEL solid.

Edit: What is limp mode?


Modified by 19sec beast at 8:58 AM 5/7/2005

DMax013

So if I cut the J1 wire and the CEL stays on then my ECU is fried, and if it shuts off it could be poor soldering or bad chip?

This wire is on my harness I supose?

SOHC_MShue

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DMax013 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So if I cut the J1 wire and the CEL stays on then my ECU is fried, and if it shuts off it could be poor soldering or bad chip?

This wire is on my harness I supose?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
no J1 is in the ecu. You have to jump a wire across it in order for it to read off of your EPROM. If you cut this then its like you are just using a stock ecu. If it still throws a solid cel with it cut then you know its not your soldering job and something is fried in the ecu.

used2baracer

99% gauranteed your wiring on your distributor or your wiring for your distributor (crank sensor, etc.) are fracked. This applies to all you guys, check, double check and tripple check your distributor wiring, I promise that will help most of you guys

DMax013

im near positive mine is flawless. I used a jkobd jumper harness and followed his instructions to the T and it was color for color on the distributor minus the white ones which im so sure i got right. Plus its a solid CEL. Can anyone else confirm this theory?? I mean I could try switching the two white wires but I checked atleast 10 times to be sure I had the correct one b4 I wired it.

Still planning on jumpering the j1 thing. So I find this in the ecu and jumper it to wat? I didn't chip the ecu so I dont kno where I would wire it to. Will continue to search. Thanks guys.

used2baracer

you're not jumpering anything, you're cutting the jumper/resistor on J1 (bottom right hand corner right above the chip). Just snip the connection, that will return the ecu to stock. If the car is still in limp mode, than it is your distributor. I don't think switching the 2 white wires will do anything because usually when they are switched, the car won't start, but you might should try it anyway...

DMax013

worth a shot, ill go switch the 2 white ones now just to eliminate it as a factor. Ill try the resistor after that and see what the CEL does.

DMax013

Snipped the J1 and cleared ECU by pullin fuse then fired it up and it runs much better but not perfect since its no longer running off the chip. Pulled the new code, which I wasnt able to get to b4 and I'm getting 92. So this means the chip job on my ECU was poor? Or could it also be something else? I didn't chip it myself, I bought the whole ecu in my conversion and had it chipped but ill look on the ubersite and see if I cant check over it.

Mr. Vapor

not to jack the thread but i thought this was relevant....


I have an '00 Si running uberdata with a P28 OBD1. Im getting a CEL. is this because its an OBD2 car running an OBD1 or is this a confirmed CEL?

just wondering, just got the car running last night and wasnt sure if this was normal or if the car should be CEL free. i just assumed it was natural to get the CEL when running the OBD1 in an OBD2

can anyone here confirm, seems like a lot of knowledgable peeps in this thread.

(sorry....thought it was fitting here rather than starting a new thread)

blackeg

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr. Vapor &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">not to jack the thread but i thought this was relevant....


I have an '00 Si running uberdata with a P28 OBD1. Im getting a CEL. is this because its an OBD2 car running an OBD1 or is this a confirmed CEL?

just wondering, just got the car running last night and wasnt sure if this was normal or if the car should be CEL free. i just assumed it was natural to get the CEL when running the OBD1 in an OBD2

can anyone here confirm, seems like a lot of knowledgable peeps in this thread.

(sorry....thought it was fitting here rather than starting a new thread)</TD></TR></TABLE>

put a paperclip in the 2 pin blue plug by the ecu and then see how many times the engine light flashes.


brett, any luck man?

DMax013

Can anyone link me to a site telling me where resistors and everything should be located so I can check the work done on my ECU. I'll keep looking on the Ubersite for a more in depth write up but I'm not too familiar with the site.

What I'm looking at right now is the J1 jumper I snipped a desoldered C52 and C51 should something be in these? If so, is there any reason why there wouldnt be? I also have resistors on R49 R52 and R54. Does this all seem correct?

Thanks for your input

SOHC_MShue

http://home.mn.rr.com/keebler65/honda/index.html
try this site

N20civicB18

hah guy just wanted to say nice name