SmurfDA

Alright in all my years of owning hondas, (3 lol), I have always had N/A cars, I have owned a semi built d16z6, and now a b18c5 with the basic bolt ons etc. Now I like N/A but have heard alot of good things about b20/T setups. My question is, would it be a waste to buy a b20 and turbo that? seeing as i already have a capable motor, but seeing as I have high compression, which isnt good for boost. Well anyways, my main question is, what are peoples thoughts on b20/T's, those who have them, what type of numbers are you putting down with what setup? I really wanna start leaning toward boost and not staying N/A. Well thats my ramble, flame if you must, but I dont think I left any flame worthy points, thanks guys.

ek9turbo

if i was u , ill build the b18c5 " sleeves, big bore........................"

hulkhb

Turbo the C5, keep the boost low and tune it, lota fun

igotyofire

i dont like b20 blocks at all mostly becuz it is a LS block with a thinner sleeve. and when it comes to boost i wouldn't dare think of boosting on those weak sleeves, although its been done. it just seems to me the sleeves crack easily enough on all motor setups. why bother with forced induction, unless you get the motor sleeved but if sleeving is in the plan mite as well get a cheaper LS block,heh

baphomet

Sell the c5 and get a ls and sleeve it. Bore it to 84mm and you have a b20 equivalent but with strong sleeves.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93tealsi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well thats my ramble, flame if you must, but I dont think I left any flame worthy points, thanks guys.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Funny

SmurfDA

what piston/rod combo would you guys recomend for the c5 build?

baphomet

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93TealSi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what piston/rod combo would you guys recomend for the c5 build?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Anything you want, I think ben@importparts has a deal on cp pistons and eagle rods combo.

I like cp pistons and pauter rods, but whatever.

Silverhatch

I would get an ls block...bore it and sleeve it to 84mm...cp pistons and pauter rods...I just got some cp pistons the other day....very nice.

SmurfDA

thanks guys, will look into those rods/pistons

JDM_Risa

iTrader: (1)

my car should be out of the shop soon like in 2 week with 84mm RS sleeves and CP 10:1 and Probe Rods.....

-iLLuZioN-B18C1

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93TealSi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what piston/rod combo would you guys recomend for the c5 build?</TD></TR></TABLE>

i would run it stock until i blew something up.

but if you do the rebuild, i would go with cp pistons, and full-race rods.

igotyofire

how much do full race rods run around?

hybrid93SIvic

C5

spraa

sleeve the C5...bore to 84/85...then you have the larger valves of the vtec head...better than going b20/vtec cuz the block is made for the head...sell the ITR pistons and rods for some build cash. that's what you should do...and good luck with whatever setup you go with...I just got my block back from AEBS and i can't wait to get some boost in them

rev-speed

don be scared boost the b20
there r daily driven b20 vtec turbos with stock bottom end running 11s

remeber stupid tuned a ls-t stock bottom end just added a block gaurd and ran 11.4s with 50
shot of juice and the car ran fine 4 a over a year before its setup was sold

m.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Silverhatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would get an ls block...bore it and sleeve it to 84mm...cp pistons and pauter rods...I just got some cp pistons the other day....very nice.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Group Tenacity

Even tho everyone that has posted already disagrees with b20/turbo, i have had nothing but good results with my set up.
I ran a b20b, stock internals except for crower race valve springs, and a block guard. With a T3/T4E turbo on a 96 EX without very much weight loss, i ran 12.16@112 on 22" M&H's at 9psi. I have boosted the motor up to 15psi with no problems and i shift at 8500rpm. again, no problems ever. I have ran the motor like this for over a year and its still running strong. My personal opinion of the B20 is that its a good motor even with boost. All you need is proper tuning and you shouldnt have any problems. The only tuning i had was a obd1 LS ecu with a chip programed by a friend of mine.
If you dont have the cash to do a complete build, i would suggest going with the b20/turbo, but if you got the cash, you cant go wrong with a built motor...

Mike......

calib17a

Go with a b18a shortblock bore out to 84mm slap on your vtec head. If you bore out your b18c1 you'll be missing out on the longer stoke of the ls. The higher displacement, the more torque, more torque= earlier and quicker spool due to higher exhaust flow to spin turbine wheel.
The b18a shortblock will are a dime a dozen, where as a b20 will run at least $700 in which you'll just trash the head and intake manifold. Don't let the negative rumors of ls/vtec scare you. I ran a -6AN line for vtec oil supply line and a -4AN line for the turbo oil supply off the Golden Eagle vtec conversion kit.

To make this simpler they even have the vtec dowels, and Honda OEM head gaskets bored out to 84mm.
If I were to change anything I would use the Crower stroker crank. For more info check out my signature. I don't even notice too much lag because the extra torque the displacement compensated for, even at 8.5:1 compression.

Full-Race Henry

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by igotyofire &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how much do full race rods run around?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Feel free to give us a call