Hello , how are you ..



Soon , I will start my turbo project on coupe civic 2000 , my plan to make 500 hp by pump gas , and prove this power to 700 hp by E85 or race fuel with more boost .

Now , I have B18B Block + B16A Head + Y80 Gear with LSD + Hasport Amounts + Hondata S300 Computer with boost by gear and map senser 3 map + Golden Eagle MFG VTEC Conversion Kit ..


I choose all parts for my project by myself , and I sure have some problem in them , especially in terms of sizes , market etc .. but I need your devices for modification of my project please , because that is my first project in turbo .

I wait your opinions ..




Project List :



CP Pistons + K1 H Beam Rods ( 9.6 )
895 $


ACL Race Bearings
150 $



ARP Head studs
140 $


ARP Main Studs
90 $


Cometic Complete Bottom End Gasket Kit
54 $


Cometic Complete Top End Gasket Kit 82MM
176 $


ATI Street Super Damper Crank Pulley
382 $


Gates Racing Kevlar Timing Belt
115 $


Ferrea Beehive Valvesprings & Ti Retainers
563 $


Ferrea 6000 Series Valves
261 $


Edelbrock Victor X Intake Manifold
350 $


Skunk2 Pro Stage 2 Cams
656 $



Blox Adjustable Cam Gears
160 $

Blox Throttle Body 70 mm
250 $

AEM High Volume Fuel Rail
100 $

44mm Tial MVR Wastegate MV-R Vband V-Band
360 $

Competition Clutch Stage 4 6-Puck Sprung Kit
356 $

2000 CC Injector Dynamics ID1000
820 $

Bosch 044 Inline External Fuel Pump (Universal) 300lph
200 $



Tank you so much ..

 

Wow this is probably gonna get some flaming responses...

anyway, why H beam rods? I would use something beefier. Also plan on sleeving it. What turbo you gonna run?
If this is your street car its probably not going to be very fun to drive, think laggy like whoa

 

Change the map sensor to a 4 bar. Sleeve the block, pick the right turbocharger. 500whp on "pump gas" has a terrible powerband, and a small Scooter would out accelerate you. 700whp on a street is very uncontrollable, regardless of your LSD.

Be a bit more reasonable and don't try for a dyno queen if going on the street.

This build is salvageable. but some realism has to be set in here.

 

anything over 400whp will mostly just distroy tires and not go anywhere fast. You should reinforce the bottom end caps. There are a few people who make them but they are pricy. Sleeves are a must.. I have seen 500 on stock blocks but it only lasted like a year.

 

A competition clutch stage 4 6-puck sprung kit will not hold 700 hp you will be lucky
getting it to hold 500hp
Skunk2 pro stage 2 cams is not the best option for a turbo car its better cam options on the market
Cometic complete bottom end gasket kit & Cometic complete top end gasket kit 82MM dont use it use all oem gaskets

 

yeah unless you run a big radial. combine that with differences in gas i personally would not try 500 on pump. it seems to be the rage now adays of peoples goals but i dont think its worth it. i went from pump to race at 440whp which gets it done in a street car if you ask me.

also, you have to run a good amount more ptw that cp recommends with cp pistons or you will make contact especially if you make the power you say you want to. im sure at 700hp you will be over .005 probably around .006 but id ask people who build high hp engines for the exact specs

 

agreed on the hp. I was going to build a sleeved 2.0 and push it to around the 450 mark, but figured ill just boost the engine im building to 350 or so.

the main caps are stronger than you think, same goes for the main bolts. getting a girdle really isnt needed, nor is getting arp main studs installed. and good luck finding someone that owns an align bore (not hone) machine.

for the street though, anything under 400 is way more than enough.


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a local tuner told me main studs are a big no no. was told they cannot flex like oem bolts.

 

I personally would run a higher CR pistons, I used 10:5.1 CPs. Make sure you upgrade the wrist pin, dont worry about sleeving, However look into the Cnc Werx , cylinder sleeve support system. Google "Cnc Werx CSS" and you will find Jeffs website. Also run a Q/C gas.

Also, take off that dumb AEM fuel rail, makes you look like a noobie. You will need to consider fuel lines as well. I would upgrade to a 8an feed, the origina feed line as a return to the tank. Good decision on injectors however its over kill.

Switch the headstuds to GE, personal preference.

The rods you want to run are ok, But to be on the most reliable end I would switch to a ibeam, like a turbo tuff or such.

Switch the pro2s out to pro1s, make sure you degree them and dont just toss them in your engine.

Also what ECU are you going to use? At that power level you will start to toy with ignition and it will begin to break up. So maybe AEM V2 with a set of k-coils and a EPM would be your best friend. Good luck, also might want to do some research instead of just making a fancy list of parts.

 

Hes wrong, well right but wrong. There awesome if installed properly. Just know you need to take the bottom end to your local machine shop and have them line bore the mains. Then they will be in a fine adjustment.

 

Whats wrong with the AEM rail?

 

Didnt see this or I would have addressed this as well. You will need a twin disk clutch. Do it and dont spend the money 3 times on a clutch, and I already said the same thing. Ditch the cams and get pro1s.

 

Nothing its just not necessary. AEM rail flows like every other rail in the world. Theres other things that should be focused on other then the engine bling.

 

Also ditch the E, and go with Q or C, **** that 25-30% fuel usage ****.

 

yeah i have an aem rail on my car currently and have been driving boosted hondas for 9 years.


i still strongly recommend a sleeved block. remove the sleeves from being the weak point. ive had some incidents over the years that i know would have destroyed stock sleeves but wound up blowing the headgasket instead. make your weakest link the cheapest parts...

 

Call up Goldeneagle MFG they have great products/ prices and helped me out a lot with my build.

 

Nothing wrong with them bro. Im not knocking it, its the same thing as Inline, GE, Edelbrock, etc etc etc, but it was just an irrelevant addition to the list. Im saying theres other things that should be the focal point. Also, there are NUMEROUS stock sleeve cnc werx engines running around 700-900whp all day. Look at the r_r_racing , yosolo tuned coupe, 9.1 stock sleeves, same engine, just blown hg's and re bearinged bottom. Impressive for 290$

 

thank you very much for my helping and your ideas are interested ,

about rod , choose manely or K1 ? H or I beam ?

and i agree with you about tha max power for street is about 500 hp only .
but my goals to use 500 hp by pump gas for street racing , and 700 hp by race fuel or E85 for drag in the future . So I want to prepare my project to 700 hp until do not more cost if I want use it drag in future .

 

What about sleevs ,

I found b18 sleeves block from golden eagle with different power by 1080 $
or use darton sleeves ?

 

500 on pump gas is really stretching the octane. E85 would be able to achieve it