can people post there b16b setups with some numbers and dynos if possible? really interested in it thanx

 

sorry for bursting your bubble, but not to many people have b16b motors, and there are even less boosted ones. B16B motor is a high compression motor, most people don't boost them. Boosted it would prolly spool the turbo pretty fast but you can't run alot of boost thru it.

Prolly out of a good kit you should get around 260-290whp on like 6-7psi. But you can't really boost it more then that, and still be safe.

 

higher compression doesn't spool the turbo any faster than lower compression, it just aids in the off boost response of the engine.....

Most people dont boost the B16b because it is a fairly uncommon engine and does have rather high compression....i'm sure you could easily make a setup for it and produce some great numbers, but you're going to have to be careful when selecting your turbo and especially your tuner...

If this were my setup, i would snag an Inline Pro SS log, a GT28RS and have some fun w/ the response on the street....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRX SIR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">can people post there b16b setups with some numbers and dynos if possible? really interested in it thanx</TD></TR></TABLE>

i'm interested in the same thing as you! lol guess we got to start researching. my cousin did Wiseco Pistons and Golden Eagle rods with the head fully built by Crane. that kinda head work cost him 3Gs which i'm not looking at doin.

 

lol yea motor work seems to be a lot more money and buying a turbo gives you more hp for less money but im looking at what others have done i know there are people out there who have boosted/supercharged there b16b and i want to know how it went and setups any problems and such?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRX SIR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">lol yea motor work seems to be a lot more money and buying a turbo gives you more hp for less money but im looking at what others have done i know there are people out there who have boosted/supercharged there b16b and i want to know how it went and setups any problems and such? </TD></TR></TABLE>

same here my cousin has a B16 turbo charged for almost a yr now tuned and no problems at all. but i'd rather play it safe and do my internals before droppin in the kit.

 

The only reason someone would boost a b16b is if they got a good deal on it (or were suckered into it), lived down south and couldn't pawn it off, and decided to build it one drunked night because they were scammed on the last set of gsr rods & gsr crank.

Jump to 1.8L, sell & swap to a c1 + rods/pistons, etc. IMO any type-r in stock form is best just for that - stock. Otherwise you can do just as well & better with a more vanilla base engine [thats built] for the same price - NA or boosted.

You may also not find any graphs again due to money - you pay a ton more for a 1.6L, then spend a lot on a kit you can't really push much, then...either have no money to dyno it, or are embarassed by the numbers.

 

if you do plan on building it, get rid of that crank for a itr/gsr crank and rods.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ABK &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you do plan on building it, get rid of that crank for a itr/gsr crank and rods.</TD></TR></TABLE>

what if i use the GSR/ITR crank with JE/Wiseco Pistons and Golden Eagle Rods cuz that the setup i'm thinking about at the moment.

 

here is my set up:

-meutek turbo manifold (flat black ceramic coated) from http://www.meutek.com
-turbonetics ball bearing t3/t04e turbo from http://www.racespecialists.com (flat black ceramic coated)
-custom 3" v-band downpipe (flat black ceramic coated)
-KMS-FAB 5-bolt to v-band adapter
-custom intercooler piping (flat black ceramic coated)
-PWR intercooler
-greddy type RS bov from http://www.racespecialists.com
-Tial 38mm wastegate with custom extension neck and dump tube (flat black ceramic coated)
-AEM EMS stand alone engine management system with build in uego
-AEM serial data gauge
-ARP head studs
-3" exhaust
-greddy oil block adapter
-greddy oil catch can
-spal slim fan
-aftermarket 2" radiator
-750cc RC fuel injectors
-walboro fuel pump
-NGK BKR7EIX iridium spark plugs
-stock head gasket
-stock exhuast manifold gasket
-hondata intake manifold gasket
-ACL rod/main bearings (engine needed fresh bearings due to accidental over-rev)

no dyno yet, full log can be found at:

http://www.ek9.org/forum/showthread.php?t=170

 

thanx blinx9900 will be checkin up on your building log and can't wait for the dynos and numbers i want to know how the drive feels to

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRX SIR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanx blinx9900 will be checkin up on your building log and can't wait for the dynos and numbers i want to know how the drive feels to</TD></TR></TABLE>

damn, just got done with the base map, im good up to 7500 now and WOW! major difference, my car is way faster at 7000rpm than it ever was at 9000rpm! drive fealt great, the overly loud vtect crossover is really quiet now, the car pulls, i love it, cant wait till tomorrow till we do the full tune!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HiProfile &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The only reason someone would boost a b16b is if they got a good deal on it (or were suckered into it), lived down south and couldn't pawn it off, and decided to build it one drunked night because they were scammed on the last set of gsr rods & gsr crank.

Jump to 1.8L, sell & swap to a c1 + rods/pistons, etc. IMO any type-r in stock form is best just for that - stock. Otherwise you can do just as well & better with a more vanilla base engine [thats built] for the same price - NA or boosted.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

you do know the B16b + b18C(gsr/itr) share the same block. getting the displacement up to 1.8 is as simple as swaping the crank/rods out for some gsr/itr units, or even ls(crank/rods) if you want.

i couldnt interpret your statement well, so i added this.