B16a2 FI Safe Boost>?
#1
B16a2 FI Safe Boost>?
Ok so i some say that i can run 300+ hp on my B16a2 with stock internals safely how much psi is that? my goal is 300-400+ hp a street car and a wensday night track car.
parts B16a2
Turbonetics T3 Turbo
Evolution wastegate
12.1 Vortec Fmu
6A Msd Kit
Skunk 2 IM
So they say i can Do 300+ With my current parts and a good tuner i just want a second opinion. my thoughs was to make that power i was thinking
.85mm bored Sleeved. Titanium rods and pistions valve springs and retainers
prety much built just to run 400 but if thier is better way for me to get thier cheaper or safely please do tell.
parts B16a2
Turbonetics T3 Turbo
Evolution wastegate
12.1 Vortec Fmu
6A Msd Kit
Skunk 2 IM
So they say i can Do 300+ With my current parts and a good tuner i just want a second opinion. my thoughs was to make that power i was thinking
.85mm bored Sleeved. Titanium rods and pistions valve springs and retainers
prety much built just to run 400 but if thier is better way for me to get thier cheaper or safely please do tell.
#4
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Re: B16a2 FI Safe Boost>? (anbukao)
I'd personally rebuild the engine internals. I also got a B16A2 engine and also planning 300-400hp at the wheels. There is no defenitive answer to what safe boost you can run on stock internals, its a matter of how hold your internals are, how well its tuned, how you drive your car, and maybe some luck would fall into the equation.
I didn't want to stop in the middle of the road with a connect rods punched through my block or a cracked engine sleeve or anything for that matter.
By rebuilding the engine you will not elminate 100% failure but you will minimise the chance of that happening to a low fraction. Best spend the money today and know your car is reliable and can even be pushed further beyond your current goal than be sorry and having to call that toe truck and pay later. But hay, that's my opinon, anyone else feel free to cut in ..
I didn't want to stop in the middle of the road with a connect rods punched through my block or a cracked engine sleeve or anything for that matter.
By rebuilding the engine you will not elminate 100% failure but you will minimise the chance of that happening to a low fraction. Best spend the money today and know your car is reliable and can even be pushed further beyond your current goal than be sorry and having to call that toe truck and pay later. But hay, that's my opinon, anyone else feel free to cut in ..
#5
I'm at work rite now and one of my buddys said keep the flu and the inline fuel filter he said it would be better but its just his opinion. So I should get a bigger fuel pump and bigger injector for my b16a2 if so what size injector and what fuel pump to use and also will my action 2 clutch hold for that type of power also will my stock flywheel hold or should I spend $300 on a light weight one
#6
been there done that
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Re: (anbukao)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by anbukao »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm at work rite now and one of my buddys said keep the flu and the inline fuel filter he said it would be better but its just his opinion. So I should get a bigger fuel pump and bigger injector for my b16a2 if so what size injector and what fuel pump to use and also will my action 2 clutch hold for that type of power also will my stock flywheel hold or should I spend $300 on a light weight one
</TD></TR></TABLE>
fmu's are old news. with the different tuning systems available now why would you stick with an fmu? all you'd need is a walbro 255 pump and 550-750cc injectors. the clutch and flywheel you have are fine.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
fmu's are old news. with the different tuning systems available now why would you stick with an fmu? all you'd need is a walbro 255 pump and 550-750cc injectors. the clutch and flywheel you have are fine.
#7
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Re: (doood)
Like doood said, your clutch and flywheel are fine. However a flywheel shouldn't cost you more than $200, but if you shop arond you can pick them for as little as $130 (depends on your shopping and bargining skills) .. If you don't want to rev fast and high then stick to your stock flywheel.
Bigger injectors and bigger pump should be a standard thing in any turbo setup. Unless you want to risk running a lean engine and blow that engine ..
Bigger injectors and bigger pump should be a standard thing in any turbo setup. Unless you want to risk running a lean engine and blow that engine ..
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#10
Man U FTW
there's no need to build the engine for 300whp, but its not a bad idea if you plan for more power in the future. As everyone else has said, ditch the FMU and get a REAL EMS. Take the money you were going to spend on the engine build a get a better setup before planning to make more power
#11
Re: B16a2 FI Safe Boost>? (anbukao)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by anbukao »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok so i some say that i can run 300+ hp on my B16a2 with stock internals safely how much psi is that? my goal is 300-400+ hp a street car and a wensday night track car.
parts B16a2
Turbonetics T3 Turbo
Evolution wastegate
12.1 Vortec Fmu
6A Msd Kit
Skunk 2 IM
So they say i can Do 300+ With my current parts and a good tuner i just want a second opinion. my thoughs was to make that power i was thinking
.85mm bored Sleeved. Titanium rods and pistions valve springs and retainers
prety much built just to run 400 but if thier is better way for me to get thier cheaper or safely please do tell.</TD></TR></TABLE>
you seem to be getting a lot of misdirection from the people in your local area about what parts are good to use.
85mm sleeved motors arent ideal for a boosted setup, sure someone will come in here and say its fine theyve done it, but its not. stock sleeved 81.5mm will be fine for your application(300-400whp), along with supertech springs/retainers.
titanium rods? definately not for your setup, eagle rods will suit you fine. cp/wiseco/arias/je will work well.
hard to believe people still suggest fmu's. if you have an FMU there is no tuning for fuel, why would you need a "good tune". if its a straight t3 turbo it wont meet your goals, but t3 isnt very specific. dont even bother buying the msd box you dont need it. id stick with 83mm but the most i would go is an 84mm on a sleeved motor if you get it sleeved.
if you will be happy with 300whp i wouldnt even touch the motor. just get a good quality kit and the proper fuel and engine management.
parts B16a2
Turbonetics T3 Turbo
Evolution wastegate
12.1 Vortec Fmu
6A Msd Kit
Skunk 2 IM
So they say i can Do 300+ With my current parts and a good tuner i just want a second opinion. my thoughs was to make that power i was thinking
.85mm bored Sleeved. Titanium rods and pistions valve springs and retainers
prety much built just to run 400 but if thier is better way for me to get thier cheaper or safely please do tell.</TD></TR></TABLE>
you seem to be getting a lot of misdirection from the people in your local area about what parts are good to use.
85mm sleeved motors arent ideal for a boosted setup, sure someone will come in here and say its fine theyve done it, but its not. stock sleeved 81.5mm will be fine for your application(300-400whp), along with supertech springs/retainers.
titanium rods? definately not for your setup, eagle rods will suit you fine. cp/wiseco/arias/je will work well.
hard to believe people still suggest fmu's. if you have an FMU there is no tuning for fuel, why would you need a "good tune". if its a straight t3 turbo it wont meet your goals, but t3 isnt very specific. dont even bother buying the msd box you dont need it. id stick with 83mm but the most i would go is an 84mm on a sleeved motor if you get it sleeved.
if you will be happy with 300whp i wouldnt even touch the motor. just get a good quality kit and the proper fuel and engine management.
#12
Re: (anbukao)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by anbukao »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm at work rite now and one of my buddys said keep the flu and the inline fuel filter he said it would be better but its just his opinion.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
No way in hell would it be better... You need to get yourself some 550cc saturated injectors, a walbro 255 intank fuel pump (ditch the inline) and an engine management system to control the injectors and retard the timing as boost increases.
Do you have someone in mind that you want to have the car tuned by?
This thread remind me of this local guy who swears he has titanium sleeves in his LS. rofl
</TD></TR></TABLE>
No way in hell would it be better... You need to get yourself some 550cc saturated injectors, a walbro 255 intank fuel pump (ditch the inline) and an engine management system to control the injectors and retard the timing as boost increases.
Do you have someone in mind that you want to have the car tuned by?
This thread remind me of this local guy who swears he has titanium sleeves in his LS. rofl
#14
Ok so the 750cc injectors will work fine with my 300-400 hp setup just incase i want to go more later, im sure i will. Now for the ems im guessing engine management system by that you mean like hondata ect.. cause i plan on getting a Hondata S200 or would the s300 be better for my setup. now scince i plan on going more later in the feature can i still push 500+ whp with a 81.5 mm sleeved with Je Low comp pistions and rods. now valve springs and retainers will supertech still be fine for a upgrade to 500+ whp later down the line.
seems ive been lead down the wrong path and no wonder ive been spending money on useless items. i know my t3 probably wont hold 500+ hp so which turbos should i get after the 300-400 hp setup
seems ive been lead down the wrong path and no wonder ive been spending money on useless items. i know my t3 probably wont hold 500+ hp so which turbos should i get after the 300-400 hp setup
#17
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Im building a B16 running Wiseco low comp pistons, Eagle rods, ACL bearings, RC 550's, Cometic H.Gasket. Am too hoping for 300 bhp also using Hondata S300. In for the info.
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Re: (Powelly)
A simple rule for finding what injectors size you need for your power requirement. There are of course more complicated formula's for this. 550cc injector, divide that by 5 = 110hp per cylinder x 4 = 440hp at the flywheel.
The loss of power from the flywheel to the wheels can vary depending on various aspects but to use a safer margin I stick to between 13 to 22 percent. Note that the more power you produce at the flywheel, the more power loss will occur.
So to put around 300hp at your wheels you will need approx 387hp +/- figure at your flywheel.
It might be a better option just to get larger injectors such as 750cc or even 1000cc and use a fuel pressure regulator to lower the pressure to your power requirments. Once you decide to up the power more then increase the pressure via the regulator.
The loss of power from the flywheel to the wheels can vary depending on various aspects but to use a safer margin I stick to between 13 to 22 percent. Note that the more power you produce at the flywheel, the more power loss will occur.
So to put around 300hp at your wheels you will need approx 387hp +/- figure at your flywheel.
It might be a better option just to get larger injectors such as 750cc or even 1000cc and use a fuel pressure regulator to lower the pressure to your power requirments. Once you decide to up the power more then increase the pressure via the regulator.
#19
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id go with s300 it makes tuning so much easier i did the crome thing and it worked but it was a pain to get it to connect to datalog ..hondata is just way better IMO
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