Kannan08

Hey HT, summer's coming up and My B16A has been begging to be rebuilt. Before getting into specifics, this car will be daily driven, and I'm look at a goal of 275-350 whp. Its going into my 95 HB. So Before even considering boosting, I want to rebuild the entire motor, head to oil pan. In order to do this I was advised to keep the pistons to a 81mm to 81.5mm with matched bored on the block, complete head rebuild with supertech valvetrain kit, new oil pan, dartons sleeves, rywire kit,stage 2 cams, etc. What would be the best method to go about rebuilding this motor. Should I buy everything first and then assemble or take apart the head and block for a visit to the machine shop. My friend advised me to first disassemble the motor then take the block, crank, and pistons at the machine shop and ask for hot tank and then factory specs on main and rod bearing clearance and maybe slightly larger ring end-gaps. Would I need a new crank or just have the old one micro polished and balanced? And based on the machine shops measurements, purchase parts?

sanman000719

just replaced the rods and pistons along with bearings man the sleeves don't need to be done for the power that you are looking for. the head can also be left alone as well

i have a stock head on a 779/468 build, and it was on a bone stock gsr engine putting down 600/322.

Kannan08

As much as that helps (sarcasm), I was looking more along specific's as what to ask the machine shop as well as procedures to take. I've seen builds like yours, stock internals, stock block and 2K (being generous) being blown left and right on tracks and a car meets, and the owners bitch about how they just lost a motor etc, while cutting corners instead of the going that extra mile to make sure the motor gets built right the first time. True the stock blocks on the b16 can take up to 500hp and that's pretty much a pristine block but people get boost hungry and tend to up boost, so I'll stick to the 600 dollar sleeves to protect a 2K investment.

sanman000719

dude your not wanting enough power to even worry about the **** your asking thats my point.

oh and btw my 600whp stock block is still going strong after 3 years as to where i have replaced sleeved blocks about 4 times now.

the driver, and the tuner is the key to keeping things togather not a sleeved block.

Schister66

^^I have to agree. You're not making near enough power to justify any of those parts. Even a simple piston/rod rebuild is overkill for your goals. Don't make this complicated...and reliability is a combination of tuning, using quality parts, and most important of all, maintenance.