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Send me your calibration and datalog of it breaking up. You may still have my email? If not PM me.
It sounds like an issue with the tune or there is something funky going on with VSS/RPM/TPS/MAP readings that could be causing this. What you describe sounds like the car hitting a "limiter".
I know you said you have a reputable tuner, but everyone is capable of overlooking things.
Send me your calibration and datalog of it breaking up. You may still have my email? If not PM me.
It sounds like an issue with the tune or there is something funky going on with VSS/RPM/TPS/MAP readings that could be causing this. What you describe sounds like the car hitting a "limiter".
I know you said you have a reputable tuner, but everyone is capable of overlooking things.
Just emailed you tune and datalog, thanks! BTW your clutch is holding the power just fine
Just emailed you tune and datalog, thanks! BTW your clutch is holding the power just fine
Glad to hear it's working for ya!
Thanks for sending the tune. Do you have a datalog of it breaking up at above 8000rpm? Because it appears that your rev limiter is set at 8012. A datalog can help confirm.
Also by looking at this, I assume you do not have your wideband wired into the ECU to datalog your AFR? This makes it tougher to diagnose. Another thing I noticed in this datalog is you are boosting with an ECT of only 150°. Therefore it is putting in a lot of ECT correction (21% fuel add) so it's hard to say what this is doing to AFR since it is not logged. This is also just barely above your cold boost cut setting. You should really wait until the ECT reaches 170-180° before attempting any pulls or tuning.
This much ECT compensation could be causing it to pour in too much fuel and causing your misfire situation. He has it set to about 20% correction until above 168° ECT, then it drops down to 0% at 177°.
Thanks for sending the tune. Do you have a datalog of it breaking up at above 8000rpm? Because it appears that your rev limiter is set at 8012. A datalog can help confirm.
Also by looking at this, I assume you do not have your wideband wired into the ECU to datalog your AFR? This makes it tougher to diagnose. Another thing I noticed in this datalog is you are boosting with an ECT of only 150°. Therefore it is putting in a lot of ECT correction (21% fuel add) so it's hard to say what this is doing to AFR since it is not logged. This is also just barely above your cold boost cut setting. You should really wait until the ECT reaches 170-180° before attempting any pulls or tuning.
This much ECT compensation could be causing it to pour in too much fuel and causing your misfire situation. He has it set to about 20% correction until above 168° ECT, then it drops down to 0% at 177°.
Wideband sensor is too close to the end of the exhaust so it can't get a great reading I'm having another bung welded soon. That was a quick pull I did in my neighborhood. Would another log when warmer help or is it useless without afr? I threw another piece of exhaust on it and watched the AFRs when I was doing pulls and didn't notice anything out of the ordinary guess I should have been logging it then
Wideband sensor is too close to the end of the exhaust so it can't get a great reading I'm having another bung welded soon. That was a quick pull I did in my neighborhood. Would another log when warmer help or is it useless without afr? I threw another piece of exhaust on it and watched the AFRs when I was doing pulls and didn't notice anything out of the ordinary guess I should have been logging it then
I can't be of that much help outside of speculation without being able to see AFR on the log. With the AFR I could do an e-tune for you
But yes, it appears it needs to be warmed up to 180° for things to work as your tuner intended, assuming this is where he tuned it at. Anything below that temp and it dumps an extra 20%+ fuel in, which doesn't seem quite right to me. Nothing else looked out of the ordinary on the log you sent me.
I do think that the problem above 8K rpm could be your rev limiter setting...
I just looked at a longer log and it appears my temps were around 190 and still breaking up. Limiter was set low by the tuner temporarily because of the breakup issues.
I just looked at a longer log and it appears my temps were around 190 and still breaking up. Limiter was set low by the tuner temporarily because of the breakup issues.
Well, if you've got a datalog of a pull with it breaking up at 190 ECT, or above 8K rpm when it has a higher rev limit set, send me those and I can dig in further.
Why not wire the wideband into D10 so you can log it as well?
Well, if you've got a datalog of a pull with it breaking up at 190 ECT, or above 8K rpm when it has a higher rev limit set, send me those and I can dig in further.
Why not wire the wideband into D10 so you can log it as well?
It's wired in but isn't getting a clear enough reading I'm going to take it to get a bung welded higher on the downpipe this week. I send you that other data log. Would you be able to set up boost by gear for me without having access to the car? Can PayPal you for the work.
It's wired in but isn't getting a clear enough reading I'm going to take it to get a bung welded higher on the downpipe this week. I send you that other data log. Would you be able to set up boost by gear for me without having access to the car? Can PayPal you for the work.
Hmm, yeah the AF reading on the log jumps back and forth from 17 to 11, even with the bung at the very end of the pipe, it shouldn't be that bad. Something else seems wonky.
And no, to set up BBG you have to be precise with the solenoid duty to get the right boost level you want for each gear. For that you really need seat time.
Hmm, yeah the AF reading on the log jumps back and forth from 17 to 11, even with the bung at the very end of the pipe, it shouldn't be that bad. Something else seems wonky..
Tuner said I had a small leak at the flex pipe. Going to get a new bung welded in at the front of the dp soon
Could explain those AFR fluctuations. Been there, done that. Lol! I used a slip joint between my DP and exhaust at one point and it managed to come loose.. My AFR was ridiculous. When I discovered the leak, welded the joint, AFR was smooth sailing.
I can't get this ignition box working. I wired the positive and negative coils to the coil in the dizzy, connected the pos and neg to the top two posts in the ignitor, power and ground and I'm getting a code 15 with no start
I can't get this ignition box working. I wired the positive and negative coils to the coil in the dizzy, connected the pos and neg to the top two posts in the ignitor, power and ground and I'm getting a code 15 with no start
I'm using the Summit Racing box, stock ICM and Accel aftermarket internal coil.
Heavy red is connected to the terminal on the starter, heavy black is grounded to frame, red is to ignition. I'm getting power to the box. Orange is going to the + on the Accel coil, Black is going to the - on the Accel coil. Gray is going to my Autometer aftermarket tach on the dash. My Violet is going to a 12v wire and also connected to the middle connector of my ICM. Yel/Blk connector on my dizzy shows 12v with key on. The green wire is going to the top post of the ICM
The CEL is gone it was because I didn't have 12v to my ICM but I do now. Still have no spark
Wait a sec.. I see now you've used the violet and green but no white. According to the directions here, when you use violet and green, the white is hot.
Edit.. but white won't be used with violet/green.. ok, I see now.. ugh.. Electronics. Lol
Yes the red and blue loops have been cut, I believe they are just for the rev limiter anyway. I did check for spark and didn't get anything. Would the box give the coil 12v? The positive how I have it is no longer wired up the the 12v just the box itself.
I moved the + to a battery positive, no difference. I double checked everything and it looks OK and I reversed it and ran it stock and it runs fine. Anything I could be missing? Am I supposed to be using the white wire instead of the magetic pickup wires possibly?
Last edited by MastaFlyMason; 05-01-2019 at 05:53 PM.
... and you are installing this box because ??? There is no reason to utilize that ignition box other than to add one more electrical device to the "possible failure list" in your engine bay. If you insist on using this box for whatever reason, remove the green and violet wires and connect the red wire to the black/yellow original coil wire and connect the white "points" wire to the white/blue wire that was previously connected to the coil from the ICM. Your orange and black wires are correctly connected... and the big RED and BLACK wires are connected to the battery and a ground respectively.
... and you are installing this box because ??? There is no reason to utilize that ignition box other than to add one more electrical device to the "possible failure list" in your engine bay. If you insist on using this box for whatever reason, remove the green and violet wires and connect the red wire to the black/yellow original coil wire and connect the white "points" wire to the white/blue wire that was previously connected to the coil from the ICM. Your orange and black wires are correctly connected... and the big RED and BLACK wires are connected to the battery and a ground respectively.
Thanks, I'll try that. It's a higher HP build (around 400whp) and I'm having issues with ignition breaking up at higher RPM. Hoping this will remedy my spark from blowing out.
Thanks, I'll try that. It's a higher HP build (around 400whp) and I'm having issues with ignition breaking up at higher RPM. Hoping this will remedy my spark from blowing out.
Your OEM Distributor should be good well over that HP. A friend of mine had a very similar issue tried a different distributor still was breaking up in high rpm then tried another but brand new distributor and works fine. Maybe try another distributor even though you say you have a new one.
Your OEM Distributor should be good well over that HP. A friend of mine had a very similar issue tried a different distributor still was breaking up in high rpm then tried another but brand new distributor and works fine. Maybe try another distributor even though you say you have a new one.
I'm trying to source an OEM one now but this is the third dizzy that I've tried
04-27-2019, 05:53 PM
Re: Assistance Needed:B16A Turbocharged CRX w/ inconsistent rpm under positive pressu
