Yep that's what I do with the moly lube, no issues 500hp. I used to use the factory specs of 20 something, then 61, with one last time through up to 75. I did have issues with the hg seal. I did some research and found that the last torque step needs to increase by more than the other steps or it increases the risk of just spinning the stud in the block.

After that I switched to the 25 50 80 steps and never had a problem since


The stud itself I use regular engine oil and torque to 10 ft/lbs.

 

Bingo

 

geeze, i torque mine at 90....... wonder what im ****ing up in my motor

 

I talked to a good friend at golden eagle and they always use engine oil and do the 30-60-80 and they never ever had an issue in 10 years. I just did the same on my boosted b18c1 and im running 20-25 pounds of boost

 

Good info here. Everyone tearing down and re torquing after 500 miles? Oem hg or not

 

^^ You should never need to re-torque the head if the correct procedure was followed.

Correct procedure (AGAIN):

-Be sure the block threads are free/clear of debris and clean (chase threads with the correct tap if needed)

-Apply ARP's moly lube to the bottom threads, thread each stud into the block by hand until it bottoms out.

-Apply moly lube to the top threads

-Install the headgasket (with the letters "UP" facing, you guessed it, up!)

-Carefully install the head onto the block

-Apply moly lube to the washers and nuts

-Install the washers in the head, then the nuts over top

-Hand tighten each nut until you have fairly equal resistance

-Torque down in three (3) equal steps, **IN FACTORY SEQUENCE**, with a good quality and accurate torque wrench (I use SnapOn torque wrenches).

My steps are:
25 ft-lb (in sequence),
then 50 ft-lb (in sequence),
finally 80 ft-lb (in sequence and yes, with moly lube)

**NOTE**
The first 2 sequences should be done with a 3/8" torque wrench for accuracy since most 1/2" torque wrenches only start it's range at 50 ft-lb and anyone who understands how they work will know they are inaccurate at the very bottom and top of their range.

The last sequence should be done with the 1/2" torque wrench.


-Recheck 2-3 times in sequence and you are done.

ARP supplies moly lube they have designed for a reason. It is an anti-corrosion/rust agent aswell as aids in their recommended torque specifications for their studs if the procedure is followed correctly.

Other people just use engine oil (which ARP also recommends in lieu of the moly lube), which is fine, but recommended torque specs are increased.

Hopefully this can/will clear up anymore confusion with this topic.

 

That is very clear, how about leaving the head on and doing 1 stud at a time? Only thing I see wrong is not being able to clean the thread

 

^^ I wouldn't advise anything like that. If you want to play with fire, play with fire.

If you are that worried about saving a $150 headgasket just to change from OEM head bolts, to studs, then you should find another hobby.

You run the risk of improper seal to the headgasket or warping the head.

Aside from the cost factor, OEM head bolts torque much differently than higher grade studs.

I didn't write the Honda service manual, engineers did that. I would follow proper procedure over saving a few bucks any day. The procedures are there for a reason.

To put it into perspective for you, over 3 different engines/builds, I have used the same ARP head studs and used a NEW, OEM Honda headgasket every single time the head was removed. Never did I once have any issues.

 

You risk warping it more loosening them all and removing the head / breaking the seal. did you get it checked out? 1 at a time for oem to arp head on in sequence seems that risky?

 

A lot of people have replaced 1 stud at a time. It's not the best way to do it but it has worked for others in the past.
Pretty sure the Honda service manual wouldn't have a torque procedure for ARP head studs. Just sayin'

 

I have no physical proof that if you change 1 at a time, it breaks the headgasket seal or potentially warps the head solely because I have never tried or WILL EVER try that type of hackjob procedure to save $150.

If you remove the head with the correct "PROCEDURE" you will not warp anything, but the headgasket will need to be replaced since it is one-use only.

Do it right the first time.

But this is the internet, you do not have to follow any instructions you read on this website.

You can do whatever you want to your engine.

 

The torquing "sequence" that ARP recommends IS the factory HONDA torque sequence procedure.

The sheet in ARP's kit clearly says "Use the manufacturers torque sequence, but do not use the engine manufacturers torque spec's"

So, that being said, HONDA or ARP do not recommend replacement of OEM bolts/ARP studs, 1 by 1.

But like I said above, do what you want to do, this is the internet, you do not have to follow anyone's directions.

 

It's a choice. If I crack this motor I'm going to want to build it. I'd rather just the security of arp in the stock b16 vs oem bolts.

Seems like I may just pull the head do the timing belt and possibly do some new rings. How long/ difficult is that?

 

^^ Depends how mechanically inclined you are, how fluent you are with the engine in mind and if you have all the right tools to perform the job correctly. I would just leave the engine alone and keep the power levels safe, until you have the time and money to rebuild the engine properly instead of small pieces here or there.

 

Seems like a plan. It's a stock Jdm b16 I'm trying to hit about 300-325whp on 10-14lbs boost. Use that power when I need it and run at like 240whp daily.

 

This kid just asks dumbass questions until someone tells him it's OK to do it

 

I weigh my options. I've read a couple other threads that's this isn't the way to go. I'm going to run this engine as is and have a built motor ready for after. Case closed!

 

i totally agree
Sircivic
i dont want to be a dick, but almost everything you say about anything is incorrect and way off. you dont pull on stud and replace it with another, someone here needs a physic listen SMH

 

What the number to re torque my arp head stud after replacing my head gasket

 

Did you not read a single post in this thread?

The proper sequence and torque steps are even laid out a few posts up on this (the last) page.... Unless you've reused these studs multiple times and they've stretched excessively the same procedure still applies.

However we don't know what engine you have. The listed procedure above is a for a B series engine. Each engine has its own torque sequence and different torque to yield values. So yea telling us what engine you have is mandatory.