I read somewhere to double up the washers for LS/VTECS using B16 heads,and GSR ARP studs. Is this true, and where would I be able to get the washers?

 

ttt

 

no.

I used the ARP GSR head studs on my privious LS/Vtec and my current b20/Vtec with no problem. I would not suggest using the B16 studs in any LS/Vtec setup though as they are about 1/4" shorter.

 

never heard of that myself.

 

Okay, I don't know *for sure* if the ARP b16 studs are 1/4" shorter, but I know for a fact that the b16 OEM head bolts is about 1/4" shorter that the OEM B18c head bolts. SOrry.

 

never heard of it jsut use arp gsr headstuds if you are diong ls vtec.. i have a ls vtec (b16 head) i used gsr head studs they work perfectly .. but then again i think i have to retorque them since theres a leak coming from under the distributor area oil leak in between the block and trans is no good

 

Thats why I ask, I had a oil leak towards the intake side of my head, and some antifreeze leaking from the exhaust side of my head. Im now rebuilding the engine for turbo so just wanted to know if I should use the B16 studs.
By the way the head was fresh mill, and the block a fresh deck.

 

ttt

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lsvtecvx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thats why I ask, I had a oil leak towards the intake side of my head, and some antifreeze leaking from the exhaust side of my head. Im now rebuilding the engine for turbo so just wanted to know if I should use the B16 studs.
By the way the head was fresh mill, and the block a fresh deck.</TD></TR></TABLE>


you have to torque them down . make sue the tap is not leaking. people say to hang tight the arp but double nut it and torque it to 25 .. then see waht happens