crxhybrid1320

The instructions say three different torque recommendations. Two with the apr lube and one with the 30 W Oil. I torqued mine to 70 with the moly lube and is externally leaking from the front corner of my GSR engine. Should I remove them and torque them to 85 with the 30W oil.
I have a picture of the instructions but am not sure how to post the picture
Jason





[Modified by crxhybrid1320, 9:07 PM 12/26/2002]

D16A6Turbo

what do you mean externally leaking? I used 30wt oil by pouring it over the threads and dunking the nuts in oil before installation...a little runs down the studs and onto the headgasket before tightening...when they are torqued down, the excess oil is squeezed out and a little oozes down the external sides of the block...if this is what you are talking about, you should be O.K...

also, I hope you used the "ARP" brand lube they suggest...If I remember correctly, my instructions said to only use the "ARP" lube or 30wt...If you've used moly lube, like the stuff used to pack bearings, I'm not too sure that was a good idea...unless someone here has experience doing it this way...

crxhybrid1320

No after 6,000 miles I can see the oil leaking externally infront of the block near the headers. I believe I used the arp moly lube and 70lb lbs. Using the cosmitic tri-metal head gasket with the setup.


[Modified by crxhybrid1320, 9:45 PM 12/26/2002]

s2k1

Has your block or head been resurfaced? I recently had the same problem with my s2k motor. The machine finish (after installing Darton sleeves) was too coarse for the metal gasket to conform to. Even though I wasn't leaking combustion pressure, I had water and oil leaking out from between the head and block. The fix was resurfacing the block again to get the proper finish. The surface finish of the block and head are critical when using metal head gaskets. How is yours?

crxhybrid1320

Well I had botht he head and block machined to the correct surfaces. They both were done by highly known shops around my area. This could be the problem but wanted to re-torque first and check. When I remove the head I will recheck the surfaces. Mine is consuming alittle coolant and oil.

D16A6Turbo

For my d series, the arp box said 60lbs w/ 30wt and like half that lbs w/ their lube. If you did 70lbs w/ their lube, isn't that too much torque. 70lbs sound like a figure for use w/ 30wt...reread the instructions and double check the instructions for the lbs w/ their lube VS 30wt...I'm hoping you didn't overtighten....

XXXRacing

I've had this problem a couple of times with ARP studs and stock Honda Headgaskets. Call it ghetto but my solution (per the machine shop) has been to use black RTV around all of the outer oil and coolant passages (not around the cylinder cutouts). This has fixed it every time for me (3Xs). I personally think it has nothing to do with the head studs. Brian

SuperTeg95

YOur suppose to retorque after 1500 mi any way. Your leaking problem is normal. Just retorque the bolts in your OE torque pattern and then give it another try around the block. Good luck

crxhybrid1320

Yeah, i didnt see the oil for a while i just noticed it after 4000. I figured I did need to retorque.
I work at toyota dealer and acually we use the black sealant on the headgasket for the corolla head gaskets do to this leaking problem on them. Its actually normal for this car to use it, so its not really ghetto. I dont know how that sealant will hold up however with high boost and HP applications!

ninesecrx

70 pounds with moly lube is equal to 85 pounds with oil because of the friction loss with oil. Thats why some people spray the head gasket with some permatex spray or copper spray also. If you block of head was milled down, you might also have the problem of the dowl pins holding the head up slightly. I doubt thats your problem though as your car has been running awhile. You sure its not leaking from the head somewhere? Maybe from the cam seal or something? Arp's rarely come loose like that if you drove it for 4000 miles.

ASHY-ELBOW

what motor is it? on my gsr i had the head off and decided while it was off to clean that vtec solenoid oil filter strainer type thing and pulled the gasket that holds the filter strainer off and cracked the gasket a tiny pinhole size ....whne driving it leaked oil down right in the front part of the block and when sprayed with brake cleaner looked like it was coming from the head gasket /block area on that side stupid mistake but i was so happy finiding out it was only a 12 dollar part instead of tearing my motor apart again

crxhybrid1320

I have all new seals its definitly coming from the head gasket. I will need to retorque it to 85 with the 30 w oil next. Its the gsr head with cosmetic gasket.

B18EG6

My ARP instructions say here

"PRELOAD RECOMMENDATIONS
Torque values are based on 75% of the fastners yield strength. Use the manufacturers torque sequence but do not use the manufacturers torque specs. Torque the nuts to 144 ft lbs for ARP MOLY ASSEMBLY LUBE. Torque to 180 ft lbs with 30wt motor oil"

"Due to the expansion rate of aluminium, it is recommended that the torque should be 115 ft lbs with ARP MOLY ASSEMBLY LUBE"

sooooo.....70 ft lbs like said above, or 144? (with the arp lube)

or should I not use the ARP lube, and instead use oil?

Farnsrocket

144 seems way high.......what engine are those ARP's for? The highest I have heard is 78lbs with ARP moly for a B18C1.

B18EG6

Says "Acura VTEC 208-4303" on the side of the box. For a b18c1. You think they sent me the wrong instructions? I doubted those numbers when I first saw them too. Are you sure 78 with the moly lube will be sufficient?

also- which end goes in the block? the side with the short threads, or the longer threads?


im confused to why my numbers are different


[Modified by B18EG6, 3:03 PM 1/9/2003]

Farnsrocket

Yeah, that's the number my box has also. Vince from GE said you use 78lbs. with Moly.

B18EG6

I torqued mine down to 78 with the moly. Why in the hell did my directions say 144? someone was when they put those directions in my box.