Im getting ready to purchase some studs for the new motor. I hear these are bad *** and want to know if the extra cash is worth it. Anyone have any complaints or good things to say about them??

 

i want to know if their main studs are worth it.

 

ARP...thats what everyone's been usung and havent had any problems yet...stick with ARP

 

I think Boostfed is using them....

 

I might be wrong but, I read that you didn't need to retorque the aebs head studs.

I would probably get them just for that, and because

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ARP...thats what everyone's been usung and havent had any problems yet...stick with ARP</TD></TR></TABLE>


There is always room for improvement, but you will never find out if you stick with the same **** everyone else is doing and not give new products a try - who knows they MIGHT be better. Good enough reasons for me anyway, but if your on a tight budget and feel its risky/ripoff then maybe its not for you.

BTW, have you seen there sleeves

/*end of rant and personal opinion*/

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kwuaymaikrup &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think Boostfed is using them....</TD></TR></TABLE>
Why yes I am they are a great stud, have the dimples at the bottom so you don't bottom the stud out in the block even though I have heard ARP ha nowdone this also, I have also heard you can put a small ball bearing at thebottom of the ARP STuds with basically the same effect. We have had great success with the AEBS head studs locally actually. Too bad we had 3 blocks go bad and we thought it was the ARP studs but they were sleeving issues. HMMM?

 

hmmmm what sleeves......... or just bad machining? Yeah I actaully used steel BB's at the bottom of my block

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spoolinlude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hmmmm what sleeves......... or just bad machining? Yeah I actaully used steel BB's at the bottom of my block</TD></TR></TABLE>
See my sig I don't wanna talk bad about a company, I won't mention their name. **cough**Golden Eagle**cough Clears throat excuse me.

But here a link to the AEBS studs 5% larger and the dimples at the bottom. http://www.aebsracing.com/prod...studs

 

I have heard that they are worth the extra loot. This came from an experienced engine builder on this board.

 

call aebs and just talk to them. if they can't convince you to use them then don't buy 'em. these guys don't **** around, they use the best quality parts and sometimes that means they're more expensive. that's why you don't hear horror stories about their ****, like sleeves dropping, etc.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boostfed &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
See my sig I don't wanna talk bad about a company, I won't mention their name. **cough**Golden Eagle**cough Clears throat excuse me.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

You had a problem with GE....... talk to vince, m sure he'll help you...... he helps everyone else I know pretty well

 

Im putting aebs head studs in this week once i put my head on.

they also are a higher quality metal afaik. and you dont have to double nut it to torque it down.

we just bought a bunch of sets from aebs, so if anyone needs any, im me or rocket. pricing is just a lil more over arp. we bought enough to offer wholesale pricing to others shops too


Modified by Bob-DC2 at 3:31 PM 8/12/2003

 

well i read your sig...... at least you got a refund

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2.2Lcivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i want to know if their main studs are worth it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have main studs on my B16 from ARP. I had to send in my original to have the set made. Make sure you have your main caps relighn honed, since the studs torque at a different rate than the bolts. Or you can mike the caps with the bolts, then with the studs and see if theres any difference.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bob-DC2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Im putting aebs head studs in this week once i put my head on.

they also are a higher quality metal afaik. and you dont have to double nut it to torque it down.

we just bought a bunch of sets from aebs, so if anyone needs any, im me or rocket. pricing is just a lil more over arp.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Cool thanks Bob. I was needing to call Rocket and get some stuff anyways. Guess I'll be giving them a try!
I know ARP makes good stuff. I just want to try something different with the new motor. ARP's are weird, sometimes they will hold and sometimes they wont......from what ive seen anyway.

 

Oh, and BTW B3435. I have seen their sleeves. This is why Darton changed their design a couple of times......actually improved on it a couple times.
This here is my personal Darton block (which is gonna get the vtec head treatment using the AEBS studs) with the MOD1 sleeves.

 

Oh yeah another good thing about teh AEBS head studs you don't have to do the 10 heat cycle treatement, start car up to operating temp and cool for 30 minutes 10 times per ARP and then retoque, I called and asked AEBS Ben Ma and he said this is not an issue with their studs and shouldn't even need to retorque actually, the last time we checked after about 600 miles on a block with these studs they were dead on what we torqued them to. AEBS head studs and BLOCKS ! Darton 93LSivic

 

Actually they are only $120 which is virtually the same price as ARPs.
Hard NOT to go with them...

http://www.group5motorsport.co...AB-HS

 

no love for b18a/b

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by int3gra &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no love for b18a/b </TD></TR></TABLE>
Sure there is..................as long as you go LS/VTEC!

 

Im far from an engineer but I cant see how motors that are sleeved like that can even cool themselves. The water jacket capacity is reduced by like 90%. How does the engine NOT have major overheating problems with hot spots?

 

I use their main studs and i had one of them actually poke through the block. Its right behind the dip stick so i dont think it will comprimise any strength. I think its due to those nipple ends on the studs. Before someone asks it was torqued correctly.

 

AEBS studs are well worth the money!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Muckman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Im far from an engineer but I cant see how motors that are sleeved like that can even cool themselves. The water jacket capacity is reduced by like 90%. How does the engine NOT have major overheating problems with hot spots?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have the Darton sleeves and my temps are low always below 1/2, no problems other than when the fan was wired backwards and it pushed instead of pulled and that caused it overheat until we reversed them. Doh! But Darton get's a BIG from me and so do AEBS head studs, great products!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Muckman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Im far from an engineer but I cant see how motors that are sleeved like that can even cool themselves. The water jacket capacity is reduced by like 90%. How does the engine NOT have major overheating problems with hot spots?</TD></TR></TABLE>

These blocks have no issues whatsoever with cooling. This is common misconception. You will have more of a cooling issue if you were to remove the shroud from around the factorey fan.