http://forum.aempower.com/foru....html

 

I am installed and ready to start on fresh build. My question is............ W/ the AEM 30-1010 box, EPM, CDI box and aem coil sticks how should I sync the ignition.

My settings are......
Direct fire......
Ignition phasing 1-12 2-6 3-18 5-0
Cam/crank
Fuel teeth 24t
Spark Teeth 24t
Coil Dwell Wizard
All Cdi except for Ford TFI
Coil 1-2-3-5 Active all w/ Knock
Settings on CDI box 1-OFF 2-ON 3-ON

I believe this is all correct. please correct me if Im wrong. If there is anything else Im leaving out let me know. I have already sent this to AEM to have the jumpers changed for C.O.P. The only thing Iam unsure of is the syncing of the ignition.

Jeff, Did you ever tune that EPM setup and how did it work out???????
Thanks

 

I have tuned three hondas with the epm, coilsticks and twinspark boxes. All of which had no issues. I was using all newer/smaller style aem boxes, so i just changed the internal jumpers inside for hall effect. Everything worked out great for the cars, and had zero issues. Tony1 informed me that the ground wire needs to go to the intake manifold side of the coil, or you'll short the coil out. I dont believe there are any instructions from AEM on wiring for the coil plug, just make sure its correct.

I believe what you have listed looks to be correct. The only thing that i dont know off the top of my head is the ignition phasing.


Modified by boosted hybrid at 9:48 AM 6/11/2008

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boosted hybrid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have tuned three hondas with the epm, coilsticks and twinspark boxes. All of which had no issues. I was using all newer/smaller style aem boxes, so i just changed the internal jumpers inside for hall effect. Everything worked out great for the cars, and had zero issues. Tony1 informed me that the ground wire needs to go to the intake manifold side of the coil, or you'll short the coil out. I dont believe there are any instructions from AEM on wiring for the coil plug, just make sure its correct.

Modified by boosted hybrid at 9:48 AM 6/11/2008</TD></TR></TABLE>

Jeff when you say the ground wire needs to go to the Intake Manifold side of the coil aren't the coils labeled + and -?

I have been running the coils and EPM all year. So far I have only had one issue with a coil going bad and like stated earlier my car just sounded like a subaru

But I called up AEM and got a new coil without any problem to their customer service.

The EPM has been working flawlessly.

Also as a warning to people. If your ign switch on, have a coil out a spark plug plugged into it and decide to turn your **** on the EPM it will spark. So don't be holding that plug unless you want a nice jolt

 

The multiple sets of coil we got from aem both the short and long version were not labeled on the connector plug, nor the coil for + or -.

 

The main question I had for you was how to sync the ignition. Can someone please explain how you correctly sync the ignition w/ the EPM. Thanks again

 

Hook the timing light onto the cylinder #1 ground trigger wire to the coil. Sometimes you'll have to move the pick up for the timing light around a bit to get a good reading. Once you have the timing light getting a good signal, shoot timing at the crank pulley the way you would with a distributor using cylinder #1 plug wire. Set the ignition timing around the idle area to 16 degrees, make sure you set enough cells around the idle area so that the timing cannot wonder around past 16 degrees. Open "set ignition timing" in the software while the car is running. You should see the "timing value" in the menu read 16 degrees if you locked the idle timing at 16 degrees. See where the timing is in reference to the crank pulley mark. If you need to advance or retard the timing use the "advance" or "retard" tabs in the "set ignition timing" menu. Keep doing it until you get the base timing to read 16 degrees with the timing light. Essentially the "set ignition timing" menu is just altering the "sync" number in the software to achieve the desired base ignition timing. Once base timing is sync'd, highlight the map and lock all timing from 0psi to full vacuum at 30 degrees. Rev the engine by hand, and keep the timing light on the crank pulley. You should see the timing stay consistent around 30 degrees all the way into the 7-9k rpm range +/- 1 degree. If you see the timing "drift" a few degrees either advance or retarded from the "locked" ignition value of 30 degrees, alter the "pick up comp delay" value until the timing remains with +/- 1 degree. Its essential that you check for timing drift, because it can happen and what you have in the ignition map wont be the same as what the engine is seeing.

 

Thats a big help.
Thanks Jeff

 

dose this COP system give you more MPG? I wouldent mind trying this out since I have the standalone ems. Just checking, all I need to run this is a AEM EMS, CoP, Twin fire CDI, and a EPM? Im just worried that I will wire something wrong and screw everything up. Is there instructions on how to wire everything up to the EMS and CDI? Is it hard to set it up in the aem ems? Please someone help me out, this is the only thread I found about this AEM COP. thanks.

 

The coil on plug doesnt give more MPG per say, it gives much better spark energy at the spark plug. You can run much looser spark plug gaps, have much better drivability and have better overall combustion which in turn can give better MPG. With the set-ups that i have tuned i am able to run fairly large plug gaps are high boost levels, and not foul out spark plugs as easily. Also, the AEM coilsticks allow you to run a standard NGK spark plug, unlike the CBR coils that you have to run a super expensive removable tip Denso spark plug. Overall its a really good ignition set-up for the money. The biggest thing is mounting the twinspark box on rubber mounts to isolate vibration. Wiring schematics are provided. The EPM has a ground, +12 volt, cam and crank wire. The coils are wired right from the twin spark box, and the twin spark comes with its own schematics for wiring. Its pretty straight forward installation. We have the twinspark, EPM and coilsticks in stock if you are interested...PM me for pricing.

 

Can you tell me how to run this on my aem ems? what settings do I adjust? Like coil Dwell and all that cam & crank sensors. I have a 30-1020 box running my B18 motor. Also how do I PM you? I sent an IM but I still dont understand what PM means.. Personal message?

 

PM'd you back. "PM" is just a personal message, which you had sent to me.

Your aem ems box needs to be internally configured for use with the EPM cam/crank pick-ups. Since its the older style box, you cannot just easier move internal jumpers on the board. Resistors need to be desoldered, and new ones resoldered in place.

 

Is there a lot to solder or just 3 or 4 resistors, and where can I find the information on how to do this? Is the newer box the 30-1060? I didnt know there was a newer box for my car. Is there any new stuff with the newer style box? except that it can be used with the EPM. thanks.

 

I had my tuning appointment yesterday. The EPM was fine once synced. Until @ 7000rpm the ignition would missfire. Im running the older 30-1010 box sent back to AEM for jumpers. New version CDI box and the AEM pencil coils. Direct Fire spark, 1off- 2on- 3on on directfire box. The car runs great up until 7000rpm's. I'm stumped on the whole deal and Corey is working on figuring it out. On every pull the car would stop at 7000rpm's. If anyone might be able to offer some info it would be appreciated.
Another wierd thing that happened was my vehicle speed sensor is showing 200+MPH speeds @ idle. I dont know if this could be tied in w/ the weird RPM cut or not. I will try to post the Data Log from the pull ....... thanks

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slowtegkauai &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is there a lot to solder or just 3 or 4 resistors, and where can I find the information on how to do this? Is the newer box the 30-1060? I didnt know there was a newer box for my car. Is there any new stuff with the newer style box? except that it can be used with the EPM. thanks.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You have to add resistors, and make a "bridge" across two of the locations on the board. There is no pictures or documentation on how to do the resistor mod, as AEM does not want the average Joe messing with the board. The newer box is a 30-1060 for your application. The newer boxes have internal jumpers that can be moved very easily to switch from mag pick-up to hall effect, as well as change the trigger edge on the coil. Both boxes will work with the EPM, its just the the newer boxes are easier to work with because they dont require soldering/desoldering of resistors.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by drpoomanchu &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I had my tuning appointment yesterday. The EPM was fine once synced. Until @ 7000rpm the ignition would missfire. Im running the older 30-1010 box sent back to AEM for jumpers. New version CDI box and the AEM pencil coils. Direct Fire spark, 1off- 2on- 3on on directfire box. The car runs great up until 7000rpm's. I'm stumped on the whole deal and Corey is working on figuring it out. On every pull the car would stop at 7000rpm's. If anyone might be able to offer some info it would be appreciated.
Another wierd thing that happened was my vehicle speed sensor is showing 200+MPH speeds @ idle. I dont know if this could be tied in w/ the weird RPM cut or not. I will try to post the Data Log from the pull ....... thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>

As far as the misfiring issue, are you losing sync at that rpm? Have you disabled the 2step, and boost cut? What spark plugs are you using?

As far as the speed sensor issues, I would have to double check the calibration to make sure everything is correct. If you want to shoot me your calibration and any datalogs I can take a look at them for you, jeff@evans-tuning.com

 

i saw someone already say 1 12mm is enough to hold the seal . the guys who are running the epm over the past months can you comfirm the RELIABILITY of the seal .
any oil leaks ?