paulzy

iTrader: (1)

Well, I decided that since a MIG machine is gonna cost me $500 anyways, I might as well save up a little more and get a TIG machine.

Now here's the problems. I know nothing about TIG and stick welding. Well, I tried stick once, but I didn't like it(little $120 cambell-hausfeld thing).

here are my main concerns:

1. Mostly need it for residential outlet(garage) and sometimes(10% of the time) an industrial

2. I need it to weld at least close 1/2" stainless steel in at least 2 passes

3. weld aluminum at least up to 16gauge piping or 1/8" sheets

4. needs to be under $1200-1300 and under

5. small enough to be portable(not too concerned about this)

6. easy to learn how to use

I was looking at the Miller Maxstar 140, but I don't know if it can weld aluminum because I didn't see an AC option in the specs list

Come 'on guys, give me something good here

and is it true that using helium will weld thicker or stronger metal than straight argon?



[Modified by 1320development, 11:30 PM 1/6/2003]

paulzy

iTrader: (1)

here's an ESAB
http://www.cyberweld.com/esmin150apsp.html

Miller maxstar 140
http://www.cyberweld.com/milmax140str.html

miller econotig(not sure if it can also uses residential outlets and currents)
http://www.cyberweld.com/milec230vol.html

hobart tigmate(not sure if it uses can also residential outlets and currents)
http://www.cyberweld.com/hobtigwitrem.html

Full-Race Javier

i believe the maxstar 140 is a lift arc start

the econotig looks like a good tig to start out with. if ur worried about household current, u can always try running off the 220 plug on the dryer. just make sure that the current/power needs arent greater than the breaker.

EconoTIG
http://www.millerwelds.com/main/products/tig/M05500/

Maxstar140
http://www.millerwelds.com/main/products/tig/M08900/

paulzy

iTrader: (1)

would you get the miller econotig or teh Hobart tigmate?

I can get 30% off of the tig mate, that's making me lean towards the Hobart

paulzy

iTrader: (1)

Javier...what's so bad about lift arc start?

do they make 230V extension cords by chance?


[Modified by 1320development, 12:35 AM 1/7/2003]

Full-Race Javier

u can make extension cords, just go to homedepot and ask for the appropriate wiring, and make sure its the right length. its all stated in the owers manual.

nothings wrong with the lift arc, i just like starting with the pedal. i may be wrong on this, but i heard it was the only way to start with the 140.

paulzy

iTrader: (1)

they have a finger control option...is that good?

BringIt10s

the maxstar140 is a DC only new style invertor that willnot do aluminum. if u are looking for a Inverter Welder ( Miller's Newest Technolegy ) that can do aluminum u have to get a dynasty 200 i think is thier smallest .. and thats big money 4k$+ .

the 180 Sychrowave would be probably the closest one to shoot for. that will do ac/dc applications. It is a decent welder but willnot weld thick stainless/mild plate or tube. Ive been told like 10 gauge or 1/10th of an inch is about the thickest you'd want to weld with it.

hope that helped you out a little bit

im trading my millermatic 210 in tommorrow on my new tig maxstar200. Definetly looking forward to learning to TIG.

Full-Race Geoff

DC reverse polarity, just ask dustin.

spikius

The miller econotig and the hobart tigmate are the exact same machine, miller and hobart are owned by the same company. I'm not exactly clear on why they still produce both brands despite all the machines being identical, other than for brand loyalty purposes. The econotig/tigmate both require about 240v/60amps since at max capacity the econotig draws 53 amps, and you'll probably be using close to max amperage for some stuff. The larger syncrowaves (not sure on what the 180sd draws, I can't find the spec sheet for it and can't seem to view the website info) draw significantly more. The only other option is to get an inverter welder, but the cheapest ones I know of that do AC (which is basically required for aluminum) are out of your budget.

As for scratch start or lift start or high freq start, if the machine does AC, it probably has a high freq unit built in so it will have a high freq start (meaning you just hold the tungsten near the workpiece and ramp up the amperage until an arc forms). If it's a DC only machine, it may have a scratch start (meaning you have to scratch the tungsten to the metal to strike an arc, similar to stick), or it might have a lift start (meaning you touch the tungsten to the workpiece and lift up and the machine starts an arc when you lift the tungsten up). High freq is usually the easiest to use, but some people prefer scratch or lift.

Concerning the fingertip control, it's kinda a matter of preference whether or not you use a footpedal or a fingertip control. Fingertip is probably better if you're going to be working in a variety of environments (not always a good idea with tig), and can't easily get situated to weld with a footpedal. A footpedal is nice if you're in a good controlled environment since it tends to be easier to control while still keeping your hands steady.

As for ease of learning, good tig welding takes some serious practice, but starting out you can probably run decent looking beads if you have previous welding experience.

For gas you will use pure argon 99% of the time, there are only a few alloys and other instances that a helium argon mix would be better, but you'll probably never run into those situations.

My suggestion if you're just starting out or want to do a lot of welding would be to look at a decent mig machine, as mig does tend to be easier and is much faster, and if you're doing stuff that's like 1/2", you'll probably want to use mig for that anyway (except aluminum, aluminum can be a pain to weld with mig if you don't have the right setup). If you're dead set on tig, and if you have the power I would get a tigmate/econotig, they're decent machines that can be purchased fairly cheaply, and are a good way to learn more about tig, and then later move up to a bigger/better machine based on your needs. Just my .02, good luck!

flip1199

Ok, i'm also lookin into getting a welder. Can someone explain the difference in a tig and mig welder? Would be best for welding things like mountin brackets for intercoolers, dumptubes/ intercooler piping, and maybe small cracks in a manifold?

sporkcrx

TIG stands for "tungston into gas" and MIG stands for "metal into gas" I believe...anyways, MIG is basically the wire fed welding you've probably seen at your muffler shop, and TIG is using a rod and a puddle of melted metal.

And now my question: I was looking into welding basic ****, like charge piping, exhaust, stuff like that....would one of those cheapy harbor freight ones do fine? How about if I weld, grind, weld, grind, haha. But there's no way in hell imma spend 500 on a welder, just wondering if I have a chance with the cheapo ones.

EMod Civic

Looks like the only ones that fit your requirement are the Miller Econotig / Hobart Tigmate. I just got an Econotig for Christmas ( to my wife). I haven't had a lot of time to play with it yet, but I was just out in the garage welding some 1/8" aluminum, and it works very well. I learned to TIG on a huge setup when I was building SAE mini-baja cars down at Auburn while I was in school. It's been about 7 years since I've used one, but it's all coming back to me pretty quickly. Personally, I wouldn't have bought a TIG except for welding aluminum. I really enjoy working with aluminum, and a TIG with AC and high frequency is the only way to go for aluminum.

I ran a new 220v service out to my garage, which cost me about $80 and the better part of a day, since my breaker box is in the basement, as far from the garage as it could be, so I had to run 70ft of 8ga wire. You could share a breaker with your dryer and just run a new plug to your garage (just don't run both at the same time).

-Chris

bigTom

actually tig stand for tungsten inert gas and mig is metal inert gas (dont quote me on mig though) i have an inverter tig machine and so far its been pretty good... i havent heard anybad things about it... it cot just over 2k

http://www.htpweld.com/product_page/...er/tig200.html

CRVRX

(TIG stands for "tungston into gas" and MIG stands for "metal into gas" I believe...anyways, MIG is basically the wire fed welding you've probably seen at your muffler shop, and TIG is using a rod and a puddle of melted metal.)

T.I.G. Stands for Tungston. inert. Gas. Because the gas used is a Inert gas. And MIG being the same.
Just thought I would set it straight.
A miller machine would be the best choise, they make very good units.

paulzy

iTrader: (1)

well, I copped out and bought a Hobart MIG machine...it'll do for now. I can always get hooked up with TIG welding form some people I know anyways