Another Turbo Ls
10 should be fine on a stock motor, thats what im running on my b18b stock.
i run a 3 psi spring on my turbosmart wg, only reason is so i feel faster when i turn it to 7 or 11 with my profec b
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i run a 3 psi spring on my turbosmart wg, only reason is so i feel faster when i turn it to 7 or 11 with my profec b
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hinds90 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is 10psi reliable for a race. I paln on running 2psi for daily driving.</TD></TR></TABLE>
instead of running 2psi, just stick to the greddy base psi o 6-8 and dont get on it all the way unless your "racing or showing off"
instead of running 2psi, just stick to the greddy base psi o 6-8 and dont get on it all the way unless your "racing or showing off"
thanks for all the info I am pretty new to forced induction so I did not know that the wastgate spring was set at a certain psi. Thanks to you guys I know now. HONDA-TECH RULES!!!!!!
FYI - i ran 7psi daily and 11 at the track on a bone stock b18 before
now i just put in last week
rebuilt b18a, new rings, bearings, etc
arp headstuds
t3/to4e (.48 hot side - full boost by 3200rpm!!)
10 psi daily
14 psi on high boost
its pretty sick but is holding together GREAT!!
now i just put in last week
rebuilt b18a, new rings, bearings, etc
arp headstuds
t3/to4e (.48 hot side - full boost by 3200rpm!!)
10 psi daily
14 psi on high boost
its pretty sick but is holding together GREAT!!
i ran 18 psi daily for 6 months on my bone stock 95 ls with 110k miles on it. It was making about 315 hp 300 ft lbs, and it was ALWAYS at 18 psi from day one since i had an 18 psi spring in the wastegate
. I ran 89 octane gas most of the time.. the key is in the tuneup. btw the car was run on hondata. I have since switched to vtec power (b18c) and make 360whp on stock internals tuned with Neptune!
. I ran 89 octane gas most of the time.. the key is in the tuneup. btw the car was run on hondata. I have since switched to vtec power (b18c) and make 360whp on stock internals tuned with Neptune!
8.7 psi here for 1 year. no problems except i need a new return line. Oh and i just got retuned... so im going to run 10 psi now as daily driver.
and whoever that dude was who said he wants to run 2 psi for daily driving... what a WASTE.. you will hardly feel anything. i was a straight up BITCH about running 8psi on my motor at first. and now, after a year of it taking it real nice.. 8 psi is good for daily driving.. ****, it can handle more.
and whoever that dude was who said he wants to run 2 psi for daily driving... what a WASTE.. you will hardly feel anything. i was a straight up BITCH about running 8psi on my motor at first. and now, after a year of it taking it real nice.. 8 psi is good for daily driving.. ****, it can handle more.
Forgot who it was, but they said they ran their stock LS@10psi for a year or two, sold it, and the buyer ran it daily at 13psi for a year w/o problems.
It really comes down to the tune (afr & timing), turbo, and psi. Low PSI, like 2 (btw wtf?), will put you well below 60% effeciency halfway up the tach, with scorching air temps (even with a fmic) in the upper rpm's. The only reason to boost at 2psi is if you run a bone stock ecu, aka being a dumbass. Assuming all the other factors line up (good afr/timing, good turbo/motor match), you're looking at max HP for reliability concerns. 250whp is considered the safety limit for a 100k+ LS-T lifespan (on top of the ~100k it was NA). Going back to the 2psi thought, I wonder if he's aware that the motor isn't fed 2psi at any rpm over idle. If that's what you think, it only gets the full PSI at almost-to-complete-WOT after it's spooled up, and only if it's under load (ie no boost if you're cruising at 4k on the freeway, full boost by 3.8k while WOT acceleration).
If a well tuned usdm b18c5 can take 10psi for a while, an LS can take 10psi w/amature tuning. One guy saw something like 43k miles on a stock b18a before it started loosing its legs, ran 12psi+ IIRC. I don't think I've even driven 43k miles overall since I got my license
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It really comes down to the tune (afr & timing), turbo, and psi. Low PSI, like 2 (btw wtf?), will put you well below 60% effeciency halfway up the tach, with scorching air temps (even with a fmic) in the upper rpm's. The only reason to boost at 2psi is if you run a bone stock ecu, aka being a dumbass. Assuming all the other factors line up (good afr/timing, good turbo/motor match), you're looking at max HP for reliability concerns. 250whp is considered the safety limit for a 100k+ LS-T lifespan (on top of the ~100k it was NA). Going back to the 2psi thought, I wonder if he's aware that the motor isn't fed 2psi at any rpm over idle. If that's what you think, it only gets the full PSI at almost-to-complete-WOT after it's spooled up, and only if it's under load (ie no boost if you're cruising at 4k on the freeway, full boost by 3.8k while WOT acceleration).
If a well tuned usdm b18c5 can take 10psi for a while, an LS can take 10psi w/amature tuning. One guy saw something like 43k miles on a stock b18a before it started loosing its legs, ran 12psi+ IIRC. I don't think I've even driven 43k miles overall since I got my license
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