EJ1 wilcox

**Update on page 2... I think she blew!**

I knew it would happen... eventually...

I've been boosted for 4 months now and loved every minute of it!

Well, all the minutes except the one when I realized that my radiator overflow tank is filling up on me

It's not that bad right now... in fact, it only filled up about 1-2 inches after driving it all week last week...

I'm pretty sure it's a head lifting issue, I've been reading threads about it all morning.

** Here's my question **

How much time do I have?

My car has not over heated and the only symptom is the overflow tank filling up. I haven't let it get to the top yet, I pour it back into the radiator before that happens.... I also noticed that the coolant in the overflow tank was goopey, like there was some oil in it...

After reading about similar problems I'm almost 100% sure it's my head gasket...
I daily drive this thing and it's Monday, which means I could change it out this weekend if I need to. Should I stop driving it ASAP and do the head gasket + ARP studs? Or, can I drive it until the weekend?

I don't want to cause any more damage and I'm pretty sure waiting until it over heats on me will cause more damage than I already have...

Anyways, this will be my first SOHC head gasket experience, I've never changed one before so I guess this is like loosing my head gasket virginity... I hope it's not too painful...


Modified by EJ1 wilcox at 4:24 PM 4/14/2005

oxSLEEPERxo

that really sucks, how many psi was you running? is this a stock block or built block? what fuel management was you running?

you should stop driving it and do the head gasket + ARP studs or it can warp the block and the head more

Slammd Sol

I wouldn't jump to the conclusion that you definitely have a leaky head gasket/head lifting. I've been running 10psi for over a year now, and everyonce in a while ill notice that my overflow tank is like maybe an inch or so higher then normal. I just figured it was normal? Do a comp test and see what the numbers say..

edit- just read that u said theres some oil in the coolant.. that isnt good Check under ur oil cap too and see if it looks like there's some milky lookin substance there

nonvtecD

Luckily HG's are super easy to do on Hondas. Make sure it is the HG before pulling it off anyway though.

EJ1 wilcox

I'm running .5bar on a stock engine with Uberdata...

I will take my oil cap off and check that when I get off work...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Slammd Sol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I wouldn't jump to the conclusion that you definitely have a leaky head gasket/head lifting. I've been running 10psi for over a year now, and everyonce in a while ill notice that my overflow tank is like maybe an inch or so higher then normal. I just figured it was normal? Do a comp test and see what the numbers say..</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's the thing... I don't know for sure that it is the head gasket because the overflow tank doesn't fill quickly... plus, I saw the goopey stuff in the overflow tank last Friday, I poured it out and replaced it with fresh coolant then drove it all weekend, this morning the overflow tank had risen by about an inch but the coolant inside of it wasn't goopey at all?.?.?.? And I'm not over heating either, which seems to be a common symptom...

I don't want to go through the hassle of replacing the head gasket and studs if there is not really a problem... maybe I'm just being paranoid?...

s2kdre

the only way to fix it is sleeve the block cause the stock sleeves shift causing the headlift blockguard and headstuds might help but its gonna happen again with stock sleeves.

EJ1 wilcox

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmhonda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the only way to fix it is sleeve the block cause the stock sleeves shift causing the headlift blockguard and headstuds might help but its gonna happen again with stock sleeves.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, I understand that... but, at this point in time, I would rather change my headgasket than sleeve my block... I'd sleeve it if I had the $... wouldn't we all?

Would a compression test be able to tell me if my head gasket is in fact blown?

From what I've read, I could have perfect compression numbers and still have a blown head gasket if it's only lifting under boost...

oxSLEEPERxo

borrow one of them coolant pressure testor from autozone, all you have to do is put a deposit and you will get it back once u return it

SOHCmaster

at least install a cheap $80.00 block guard in while you got the head off, that will be another wise choice ........

mike93eh

also, resurface the head and only use oem headgasket and arp studs.

PrecisionH23a

Time is not the issue.... the issue is coolant entering the combustion chamber promoting lean conditions. You will most likely melt a piston on the intake side if you keep boosting like this.

SOHC_MShue

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PrecisionH23a &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Time is not the issue.... the issue is coolant entering the combustion chamber promoting lean conditions. You will most likely melt a piston on the intake side if you keep boosting like this.</TD></TR></TABLE>
would you be able to see a noticable change in your afr if this happens?

Also you may be alright if your coolant overflow goes back down after you let the car sit for a few hours. That is suppost to be normal. Last time i blew the headgasket though I noticed it would rise a little higher than normal before going back down.

PrecisionH23a

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SOHC_MShue &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
would you be able to see a noticable change in your afr if this happens?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes... but the ethyl glycol content in radiator fluid is an 02 sensor contaminant. So most likely you will ruin your 02 sensor.

SOHC_MShue

gotcha

Finest

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmhonda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the only way to fix it is sleeve the block cause the stock sleeves shift causing the headlift blockguard and headstuds might help but its gonna happen again with stock sleeves.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The blockguard will prevent the sleeves from shifting. But I wouldn't throw a BG in there in the first place.

You might just need a new radiator cap.

racinskittle

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Slammd Sol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I wouldn't jump to the conclusion that you definitely have a leaky head gasket/head lifting. I've been running 10psi for over a year now, and everyonce in a while ill notice that my overflow tank is like maybe an inch or so higher then normal. I just figured it was normal?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Exactly.

You're over flow tank will rise as your car heats up. Hence the reason for the MAX COLD/ MAX HOT lines on cars.

Also, has your coolant been changed in a while? Change that **** and see if you still get oil in it afterwords.....it's probably old anyways..it'll do some good.

093turbo16

iTrader: (2)

what is your timing at? Some head lifting issues go away with less timing, atleast BBKA said so...

boostincoupe

-Get your head resurfaced/rebuilt if leaks are present ($350 MAX)
-Use copper spray
-ARP headstuds are your friend
-65 ft./lbs, torqued in a 3-step sequence (20/40/65/65 again to check) after the studs have been put in HAND-TIGHT into the block
-Replace your timing belt/water pump/oil pump while you're there
-Crank pulley bolts suck. Period.
-Check the BLOCK surface as well

That's all I've got off the top of my head.

racinskittle

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PrecisionH23a &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Time is not the issue.... the issue is coolant entering the combustion chamber promoting lean conditions. You will most likely melt a piston on the intake side if you keep boosting like this.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I never knew this, how does that happen?

EJ1 wilcox

Thanks for all the suggestions!

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by racinskittle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Exactly.

You're over flow tank will rise as your car heats up. Hence the reason for the MAX COLD/ MAX HOT lines on cars.

Also, has your coolant been changed in a while? Change that **** and see if you still get oil in it afterwords.....it's probably old anyways..it'll do some good.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, I haven't changed it in a while, maybe I'll do that first before pulling the head off of there...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PrecisionH23a &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Time is not the issue.... the issue is coolant entering the combustion chamber promoting lean conditions. You will most likely melt a piston on the intake side if you keep boosting like this.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I did a few pulls last night with the wideband and the AFR was still dead on 12.5:1.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boostincoupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">-Get your head resurfaced/rebuilt if leaks are present ($350 MAX)
-Use copper spray
-ARP headstuds are your friend
-65 ft./lbs, torqued in a 3-step sequence (20/40/65/65 again to check) after the studs have been put in HAND-TIGHT into the block
-Replace your timing belt/water pump/oil pump while you're there
-Crank pulley bolts suck. Period.
-Check the BLOCK surface as well

That's all I've got off the top of my head. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I will probably just pick up some headstuds and a new gasket so I can get this taken care of this weekend. I don't need to replace my belts though, just did that about 5k ago.

One question though, can I take the head to the machine shop with the IM still on it? I am planning on leaving the head connected to the IM and don't want to have to buy another IM gasket if I don't have to.

Thanks again for the help!

boostincoupe

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EJ1 wilcox &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks for all the suggestions!

Yeah, I haven't changed it in a while, maybe I'll do that first before pulling the head off of there...

I did a few pulls last night with the wideband and the AFR was still dead on 12.5:1.

I will probably just pick up some headstuds and a new gasket so I can get this taken care of this weekend. I don't need to replace my belts though, just did that about 5k ago.

One question though, can I take the head to the machine shop with the IM still on it? I am planning on leaving the head connected to the IM and don't want to have to buy another IM gasket if I don't have to.

Thanks again for the help!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Be sure not to get stock headbolts, when you send your head to the machine shop, they WILL take off the intake mani, although you should be able to do it yourself. You WILL need a new gasket, tough ****.

BTW: 12.5:1 is a tad lean for boosting a daily driver y0.

SOHC_MShue

right before the last time my headgasket blew my afr was still dead on so if you do have anything its probably just a small leak. Also i'm guessing that you will need to take the intake manifold off in order to get it resurfaced. I had to remove my cam and rocker arm assembly, and intake manifold when getting mine resurfaced.

Also you should just go ahead and get a hondata intake manifold gasket while your at it because its only double the cost of a new honda gasket, but will last forever.

Devine

I really dont think your headgasket is leaking, i had a similar experience after a highway run to about 150, overflow tank was completely filled up. I poured the contents back into the radiator and ive been driving/racing for 2 months since than without any issues. Just go out and beat on it for a couple of runs if it doesnt start overheating than i doubt you have any issues.

Bailhatch

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boostincoupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

BTW: 12.5:1 is a tad lean for boosting a daily driver y0. </TD></TR></TABLE>

ya, that and some marginal gas could be the end...11.5 is good

I have 2 sohc turbo 'experiments' going right now. One is a 50 trim to4e at 13psi with 14.5* total timing (leaked at 17ish*) and my own car t3 at 14 psi and about 15* total. Everything is good so far after several weeks of constant beatings.

EJ1 wilcox

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boostincoupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Be sure not to get stock headbolts, when you send your head to the machine shop, they WILL take off the intake mani, although you should be able to do it yourself. You WILL need a new gasket, tough ****.

BTW: 12.5:1 is a tad lean for boosting a daily driver y0. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Okay, cool... I will just take the IM off after I get the head off then. I am going to get some ARP studs, I just checked, only $75... not too bad... and I will pick up a new OEM head gasket along with a Hondata IM gasket.

Oh, and I will turn the fuel up a bit. I Have been trying to follow the "golden rule" on Keebler's write up. I just barely got it really dialed in on Saturday (I've been running off BBKA's map for a few months), it will be super easy to increase the fuel by a few % while I'm in boost.