afc hack and boost questions (even after a search)...long...
...ok i finally got me some 440's ordered from a boardmember that should be here anyday...when i get them im going to go ahead and do the afc hack...i got the settings from off the drop shop web page...it's pretty much the consensus that that is the way to do it right? http://www.thedropshop.tv/vafc.htm
...i now see why people stress do a search before asking questions because it was almost endless the about of topics that came up on the subject and i am sorry to have to add to it...i may have some questions that have been asked but again the info on the search was endless most of it the same info...
...what is the reason the throttle points are set at 98Lo and 99Hi? what exactly is that for? "-Lo/Hi fuel throttle point/crossover setting at 71%/72% (because thats when the honda ecu switches to open-loop mode..but this shouldn’t matter much because the lo and high maps are exactly the same..some people run a 98%/99% setting..it doesn’t really matter)" is what it says but im not sure if i understand...as a matter of fact if someone has some time or a link on hand that can explain exactly whats going on with the hacks settings that would be great...
...i understand that the missing link and check valves are no longer needed but what if i want to run more than 12psi of boost on track days? is inline pro using the hack? or standalone? and i understand that the standalone is the way to go when going over 12psi but on race gas would say 15psi be ok with the hack settings? are 440s sufficient enough for 15psi??? would this be ok until i can afford to get the aem ems...or is that a dumb question since id blow my motor up?
...should the FMU and inline pump set up stay the same? i have pretty much my whole set up in my sig so that when i have questions i won't have to keep retyping it so let me know if it's ok...the next thing that i really want is something to watch my air/fuel better than with my autometer gauge...which is pretty much useless to me since for some reason it doesnt cycle back and forth like it used to at idle...
...right now my car has a few things that are wrong with it...surges at idle, back fires with flames out the exhaust at times, and check engine lite with map sensor codes 3 and 5 which i cant figure out what's going on with since i have the missing link in and it's not going into limp mode...at times my car will bog like im getting too much fuel...im hoping that by doing the hack that maybe some of these problems will go away...or is that stupid to think?
...folks thanks for reading this post and im sure there a few of you guys that can help me out...thanks...1
Corey
not really good at working on honda's but i sell em not fix em
...i now see why people stress do a search before asking questions because it was almost endless the about of topics that came up on the subject and i am sorry to have to add to it...i may have some questions that have been asked but again the info on the search was endless most of it the same info...
...what is the reason the throttle points are set at 98Lo and 99Hi? what exactly is that for? "-Lo/Hi fuel throttle point/crossover setting at 71%/72% (because thats when the honda ecu switches to open-loop mode..but this shouldn’t matter much because the lo and high maps are exactly the same..some people run a 98%/99% setting..it doesn’t really matter)" is what it says but im not sure if i understand...as a matter of fact if someone has some time or a link on hand that can explain exactly whats going on with the hacks settings that would be great...
...i understand that the missing link and check valves are no longer needed but what if i want to run more than 12psi of boost on track days? is inline pro using the hack? or standalone? and i understand that the standalone is the way to go when going over 12psi but on race gas would say 15psi be ok with the hack settings? are 440s sufficient enough for 15psi??? would this be ok until i can afford to get the aem ems...or is that a dumb question since id blow my motor up?
...should the FMU and inline pump set up stay the same? i have pretty much my whole set up in my sig so that when i have questions i won't have to keep retyping it so let me know if it's ok...the next thing that i really want is something to watch my air/fuel better than with my autometer gauge...which is pretty much useless to me since for some reason it doesnt cycle back and forth like it used to at idle...
...right now my car has a few things that are wrong with it...surges at idle, back fires with flames out the exhaust at times, and check engine lite with map sensor codes 3 and 5 which i cant figure out what's going on with since i have the missing link in and it's not going into limp mode...at times my car will bog like im getting too much fuel...im hoping that by doing the hack that maybe some of these problems will go away...or is that stupid to think?
...folks thanks for reading this post and im sure there a few of you guys that can help me out...thanks...1
Corey
not really good at working on honda's but i sell em not fix em
It doesnt matter what you set the throttle point to because the hi and low maps will have the same settings. You cant run over 12 psi with the hack, it just doesnt work. So it's 12 psi until you can afford the ems. You can take the FMU out also.
ok im pretty much ok with the hack situation now but what about these cel's??? im still getting map codes 3 and 5 i guess like my car is seeing boost which my afc is showing that it isn't...i would like to have the car free of problems before turning up the wick...problem is i don't know what else to check...my map sensor isn't showing the proper voltage but i put on another one and it's doing the same thing...maybe the one i tried is also bad? what about the idle? i have taken the idle switch loose and it will idle but it will idle at about 2 grand rpms...hmmm? this car is somewhat getting on my nerves...
...someone can help me out right? i know it's probably like 50 million different things that could be wrong but what are the most common? thanks
...someone can help me out right? i know it's probably like 50 million different things that could be wrong but what are the most common? thanks
you can run over 12 lbs boost with 440cc, fmu and afc setup. just run your regular fmu setup with a 6:1 or 8:1 disk and chech valve. and use the afc to adjust for idle and part throttle. dont use the afc hack if you want to run over 12 lbs.
You would probably want to use a 4 or 5 to 1 ratio fmu with 440s and an fmu. I use a 6:1 with my 370s. I will be trying 440s, fmu and afc as soon as my injectors show up. I was running 13psi with the 370s.
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you can run over 12 lbs boost with 440cc, fmu and afc setup. just run your regular fmu setup with a 6:1 or 8:1 disk and chech valve. and use the afc to adjust for idle and part throttle. dont use the afc hack if you want to run over 12 lbs.
so does anyone know exactly what in-line pro setup is? with or without the FMU in place...i keep saying in-line pro because i see them at the track and their cars are hella fast...
i spoke with a guy from there a while ago and he was telling me to get the injectors, afc, and i *think* he said to keep the fmu with the 12:1 disc...he told me that with my turbo and race gas i could do about 18psi and still be ok at the track...
i know he said that the gas mileage would be really bad but i don't think id mind that too much as long as my car runs ok...to be really honest i don't even care if it has a bad idle as long as its not hurting anything (you should hear the way it idles now)...thanks for all of the help you guys have offered so far...the only bad thing is it's something new everyday with my car...1
i spoke with a guy from there a while ago and he was telling me to get the injectors, afc, and i *think* he said to keep the fmu with the 12:1 disc...he told me that with my turbo and race gas i could do about 18psi and still be ok at the track...
i know he said that the gas mileage would be really bad but i don't think id mind that too much as long as my car runs ok...to be really honest i don't even care if it has a bad idle as long as its not hurting anything (you should hear the way it idles now)...thanks for all of the help you guys have offered so far...the only bad thing is it's something new everyday with my car...1
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M-EJ1
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Apr 4, 2003 04:50 AM



, hope I answered all your questions...
