playAho

I bought an ACT 6 Puck clutch and pressure plate for my b16a3 turbo del sol. I was told that with a 6 Puck you need to drive the car hard. because if you don't it will glaze over.

I always thought that you needed to brake clutches in. I just wanted to see what you all thought about. rodding around on a brand new clutch.
thanks for your time
Adam

USDM 4G VTEC

is the opposite way

u cant run it hard
during the first 500-700 miles

if u do, the clutch material will go too hot and some of the contents of the clutch material will over heat, and go to the surface and glaze the clutch

drive i t normally for 500 miles (city miles not highway)

then afterwards u can beat on it

boosted_dc2

wow that sucks, i wanted to go straight to the dyno

Landon

Bailhatch

organic and/or full face discs need to be broken in (not sure about the carbon kevler style).

I just got the same ACT R6 disc for myself. It will be beaten severely from day one. the friction surface looks like it's mostly metallic anyway so there will be less of the adhesives to cook out. Not sure about glazing over but that wont be a problem in my car anyway...they do tend to eat flywheels and plates ont he other hondas I have installed them in.

boosted_dc2

yea i have the act 6 puck race with extreme PP. Bail, are you jsut going to start driving hard on yours??? what do you think about break in.

Landon

Bailhatch

i'll drive it easy for about 5 miles, just to make sure it's releasing properly, then I will hammer on it. the xtr6 holds some serious torque man, thats dope if your useing all that holding power...

tyrone27

6 puck don't need to be broken in. I just pulled off the lift and drive it to a straight road and did a burn out to break mine in. holds fine.

boosted_dc2

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tyrone27 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">6 puck don't need to be broken in. I just pulled off the lift and drive it to a straight road and did a burn out to break mine in. holds fine.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i DON'T need an inglish class

Landon

rioninja

Breaking in a puck style clutch disk is a useless waste of time. A few hard slips and your ready to beat on it.

BoOsTiN Dc2

puck clutch dont need to be broken in

turb

is it true that clutch chatter is inherent with puck clutches?

Griffin@Camtech

on the no break in. just a few hard slips and your good to go. and yes they do tend to chatter if you try to slip it slowly

PM-Performance

ibroke mine in hard on the street, still hooks great for me

ladysman

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by itr206 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ibroke mine in hard on the street, still hooks great for me </TD></TR></TABLE>

I am not necessarily running it "hard" as I have a 4k rev limit but ACT told me to NOT slip it much. This really isn't hard cause that thing grabs like a ****. I say don't baby it too much is what they are telling us.

Turbo E

act says do a couple of hard launches. thats it. done.


Modified by Turbo E 604 at 9:13 PM 6/30/2004

Egg-weezy

Take it up and down the street shifting into every gear up and every gear down and you'll be good to go. They just need to heat up and then they're ready to be driven hard. I know from experience.

Just don't slip the clutch and throw it in gear hard for the first 10 miles. Slipping the clutch is how you glaze it.

vaporboy12

6 pucks dont need break in time

playAho

thanks for all the replys!!!!!!!!!!!
that is just what I wated to know!

Bailhatch

Just got my HDR6 in a shipment today! i'm stoked. just thought I share

gritsak

check out this post...about 11 posts up from the bottom of the first page...

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=562259

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ACTman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Actually we are now recommending a break in period prior to competition. Basically the surfaces need to lap in to get better contact before racing so that more material is doing the work. Otherwise the limited amount of material that is making contact will not hold as much power and gets overheated prematurely.</TD></TR></TABLE>

rioninja

All that they are saying is that it will take some time before the surfaces are 100% bedded.

gritsak

and that they reccomend a break in before you drive the car hard so that it does have 100% contact

Bailhatch

yup, make sure the flywheel is resurfaced and stepped correctly too. I think if you are not making too close to the max Tq the clutch can hold, a few miles of medium shifts should 'lap' the surfaces enough to bring it to the max holding power. If you are making close to what the clutchs limit is, a more gentle lapping (get your mind out of the gutter) might be needed. Notice how ACTman says "racing". That implies repeated, hard shifts. Even a super cool JDM street racer doesn't hammer into every gear...i would hope anyway.

I'm sure the president of ACT knows his ****. However, I have had great luck following old directions on about 40 of their clutchs with awesome success great products

playAho

clutch is in im clean just out of the shower and some food. thought I would tell you it all went great drove it a couple miles then did a couple 4,000 clutch drops then drove it some more then 6,000 then drove around town trying to get used to it then home. clutch works great!!!!!!!!!! I only ran my car at about 1/2 throttle. I didn't really get on it
except for the 6,000 clutch drop.
thanks for your help!!!!!!!