I agree with you 100%

for the op, a little research goes a long way, so i highly suggest it, because you dont want to look like a moron on the side of the highway with a blown up integra while everyone else passes by right?

 

10:1 is pretty high for a turbo car. Usually turbo cars are under 9:1.

 

go make some more cheats for cs1.6, you know nothing about cars.

 

 

Lol at the person saying 10:1 CR is high and that under 9:0.1 is "GOOD" that is so VAGUE... on a GSR I DONT see how in the hell you would obtain anything lower than a 9:6.1 cr once you put any... ANY vtec head on a car, let alone milling it and raising the compression by trying to even the surface of the head due to warpage even a 4 layer headgasket may get you down to a 9:4.1. only way i can think of getting a car around 9:0.1 is ordering some 8:8.1 pistons. but ne who, how can you arguably say 12psi, when you dont know the op's exhaust size, turbo choice, or his injector size, or map sensor usage..?

 

sweet thread !!!

AlexDphoto i would of gave up half way though good job

 

ROFL noob, I have a fully built turbo car that I built myself. Paid for with my cheat money. Get on my level son.
Keep the facepalm up noobs, it really makes you look like you know something.
Please go find me some cars which were designed to be turbo with 10+ Comp ratios. I think you will find that there are very few. There is a reason behind that.
Now don't get me wrong, I never said that you can't boost 10+ Compression. I am just stating that it is a higher compression for boost and therefore you will be limited as to what you can do on pump gas.

 

Wow...there is a TON of misinformation/ bad information in this thread

OP: Do some research for yourself by checking the FAQ at the top of the FI forum.

 

take a stroll over to s2ki and see what kind of **** theyre doing stock motor and pump gas.


welcome to 2010 fgt

 

Yes tuning is the key. Just don't wind up like me with a blown motor because the tuner had to much timing in it. Looks great on the dyno but in the real world it just looking for a place to

 

LISTEN to this GUY!!!! I Made 310whp on a 57trim had no internal problems, Sure that 310 looked great on the dyno being a stock motor(B18c1) with arp headstuds, but on the streets and 2months later Cracked ringlands and loss of power on the way to work led me to tear down my motor and build a bottom end ... OH BTW it was only on "12PSI".....

 

Thanks for the props man. I really hate to bash on someone but the guy that tuned my car had it on the ragged edge with timing. Knowing what I know now it will be different on my next build.
Now what I'm speaking of here is a stock C5 motor with a JRSC. A far cry from a turbo set up either way boost is still boost. I was told this will last you a lot longer than a turbo kit with less problems. Yeah, right!
I know dynos read different even if they are the same make but my car made 260/175. I really believe if it had been tuned around the 240-245 ranged it would have held to this day considering I don't beat the crap out of my stuff. Chalk it up, move on.

 

LOL hmmmm since we live in the same state lol are talking about a shop that stars with a m?

 

ROFL!!! You said it I didn't! LOL!!!

 

im set to "tune" with this guy soon lol.. I was tuned by tampa mike

 

Recon this state will get some more tuners? ATL has us beat, So does florida, dont know about MISSIPPI??? but tennekey should have some, we still have "OLD FASHIONED" tuners

 

a lot of misinformation in this thread. Forget about psi. Think more about your fueling mixture. Rich/lean. Go through the FAQ, do a search on google. Check out the thread below this that deals with B18's and boost. Almost 1000 pages of people running the exact same thing as you.

As regards to HOW MUCH BOOST. There is a guy in the b18 thread running 16 lbs on stock internals, how? Tune tune tune.

 

ssautocrome broooo

 

your a ****ing noob. And you dont know a damn thing about cars. Honestly go delete your account. You just sit there and run your mouth and I bet you have never even ****ing seen under the hood of a turbo car in your damn life. Do you see my account? Do you see my post count? Do you see how many people I have helped? I know my ****. I built my car, and I have helped countless others with fixing/building theirs. And I state a fact, and you start talking **** like you know something. And then the fail tuner who says that "12 PSI is safe" as if you can measure safe boost levels based on PSI without a turbo size pipes in and starts talking **** because I happen to be a big player in the cheat scene. So honestly both of you idiots can just fk off.
/rant

 

I know I have said this a million times. But since there is so much misinformation in this thread OP, I'll help you out...

People have proven to run a variety of numbers on a GSR motor with stock internals. I've seen numbers from 250 to 500, depending on turbo and what fuel used. With that said, the norm that people usually shoot for, power wise, is about 300 to 325 whp on a stock GSR. It's up to you, the user, to determine how much power you really want to make, and the purpose of the car.

Do not base a goal on psi alone, choose a power goal. Different turbos make different power at the same pressure level, which renders psi irrelevant in most cases. Generally speaking, psi is just the level of pressure measured at the intake manifold & MAP sensor. For example, my old stock LS turbo setup made 304 whp, and it took 14 psi to do it, with a 57 trim turbo. Before that, my Borg Warner 50 trim took 16 psi to do it. Either way, 300 whp was pretty fun. Then, 489 whp on my built GSR was hellacious! But torque, high cylinder pressures & detonation is what blows motors, not psi.

Choose a power goal within reason of the limits of your motor, make sure your motor is healthy, compression & leakdown wise, choose the correct turbo to efficiently achieve the goal, discuss the goal with your tuner, and he will use whatever psi your setup will give him to make that goal. And remember...your setup is only as good as its maker & tuner, so make sure he's good & reputable, and make sure your setup is done right.

[/BROKEN RECORD]

 

hit a soft spot did I? Id make myself look just as dumb as you did if I was just proven wrong by a "****ing noob as well"

carry on, correcting idiots like you helps me pass time at work.

 

Yeah brah I see you account, looks like the person that needs the most help is yourself.

You ever figure out if your vtec is working? Maybe youre not holding your idle high enough ROFL



Doesnt look like you have any place giving out advice in your forums if thats the stupid **** you post, and here youre trying to tell us 10:1 compression is too high for boost and ideal is under 9:1?

Give me a break man, and do us all a favor and keep your idiotic suggestions to yourself. People like you are the reason why n00bs go around buying the lowest compression pistons possible because they think they need it to power their t3/t4 ebay powered single slammer piece of **** around.

More and more builds have been done on higher compression now because guess what? This isnt 1993 where people didnt know how to tune a ****ing car correctly.

I dont know about you but maybe your tuner is garbage. Im 100% confident that my tuner can tune my 10:1 GSR that makes MORE power than your car and has no problem being daily driven.

And guess what, my Vtak works, thats right, its all that and a bag of chips.

So if youre done spreading false information around on these boards why dont you go delete your account, or you can just man up and take the fact that youve been proven wrong.

 

OK I'm lost. You mean Jim is going to tune your car?

 

YASH jim

 

i know you have been on here for a long time, as have I. it seems you are on the same page as i am about the bad or mis information. in fact i just said last night what the hell happened to this fi forum? it used to be one of the only places i could go without the ignorant posts etc...


i made 300hp/210 tq on 8.5psi with an off the shelf peakboost kit a little while ago. stock motor 135k miles. it would have been more boost if i wasnt running a STOCK map sensor. i wanted a boost cut so i kept the boost around 8 giving me 1-2 psi room for any creep or to account for colder weather when i set the cut to 10 psi. i have to admit the car was awesome to drive. .63 exhaust 57 trim hit the full boost between 3500 and 4000 and it ripped out to redline. it would have run even better/made more power if i used s300 or neptune on it instead of uberdata. thats what he gets for a free dyno tune lol.
i think the car wound up going 13.0 at like 108 on bfg kdw's before he sold it for an sti


original poster. it all depends on your motor health, and map sensor. trust me, you want a boost cut set, and the stock sensor is accurate to around the 10-11 psi range, so if u run stock map, you should be looking at 10 or less psi.