I've got a '95 Integra with a B18C (98+ Spec) ITR swap. I have a few bolt on mod's on the motor, had it Dyno Tuned (put down 178 WHP on a Mainland dyno) and now that I've had some time with the motor set-up. I've gotten a little bored and I'm looking to add a Turbo with a goal of 300-350 whp. I want to keep it street-able and maintain the function of AC and PS all while running off of Pump Gas.

Without tearing into the block, is 300-350 whp possible?

What Turbo kit would you go with?
I was looking at the Go Autoworks S-X500 kit (thinking with a GT2560R or 2860RS); and 3" flared down pipe, FMIC coated black (want hidden) and the recirculated dump tube options.

Other things I'll know that I'll look into getting:
- Injectors 775-1000cc (I have a Walbro 255lhp, AEM fuel rail and B&M Adjustable FPR)
- Custom 3" Exhaust with Muffler (I wish I could use my Apexi WS2)
- 70mm Throttle body (will port match)
- Axles shafts & Intermediate Shaft (500hp rating)

Is there anything else I am missing?
Have any other suggestions?




I have searched and everything is about B18B or LS/B20-VTEC, nothing about the B18C-R's.

 

That turbo kit will work. I'm not sure why so many guys are set on such a concrete number. 250whp-280 whp is easily achievable on pump gas and little more with race gas. This power level will keep your engine together longer and the spool time will be ideal. The more power, this spool time will increase, when moving up to the 350+ whp turbo selections and your engine will get closer and closer to its death when over the 300whp mark.

You can keep the World sport if you are willing to sacrifice some power. If this is a 100% street car I recommend keeping it. It also depends on how old you are as well. The loud exhaust has it's place and for me, that's at the track.

 

It's a 90% street/commuter car, 5% 1/4 mile 'test & tune' runs and 5% Auto-X events (open class/fun runs). Thats good news about the WS2 exhaust, I like how quiet it is (hated my old canister/N1 style exhaust).

I know power numbers very a lot depending on the Dyno being used; a Mainland/Dynapack (hub) would be like 250-275, while a Mustang/Dynojet (drum) would be 300-350. I want to run enough boost to keep the stock motor operating safe; I'm not building a SFWD car.

 

With that said, looks like you are on the right track with your parts list. My only suggestions would be, do not buy injectors from ebay, Invest in a reputable company's injectors (ID, Fuel injector clinic, Southbay, etc.) stay with go autoworks for turbo kit, purchase a spal fan, a turbo blanket and heat wrap for the manifold. Do not buy aftermarket intake manifold, throttle body, or cams or fancy fuel system, fuel rail, fuel pressure regulator, etc.

OEM axles are fine for this power. OEM intermediate shaft is fine as well.

280whp and done.

 

My previous setup was almost exactly what you are describing. I based my kit off of the Edelbrock t28 manifold. I used an internally gated GT2871R turbo, Edelbrock intercooler, id1000 injectors, EVO X fuel pump, apexi Noir exhaust. I did run e85 because it was readily available and cheaper per mile than 93 oct. I would say axles, fuel pressure regulator and fuel rail are not necessary. I took the KISS approach when building mine. Even kept the Exedy OEM clutch as long as possible. It made 350 WHP at around 12PSI. I drove it for 2 years and around 25000 miles at that power level. It was a very fun setup. The only downside of that setup was the internal gate wasn't big enough to keep the boost down. With the apexi Noir exhaust it would make 10-12 PSI on a 8psi spring, when I put a 3" exhaust on it would make 16-18 at redline. I would NOT recommend running that much boost. I'd say if you're running 93 oct you would have no issues at 300whp and keeping the WS2 exhaust.

 

the whole thing with the WS2 muffler depends on which version you have. There is a baffled 2.5" version, and a non-baffled 3" version. The baffled 2.5" will restrict power a little with turbo. The 3" non-baffled will not restrict anything.
Exhaust piping size also is a lot less of an issue than you think. Smaller piping will be quieter, and 2.5" piping can easily support over 400hp. I've personally made 420hp on 2.5" piping, then went to 3" and only gained 3hp, which isn't even a comparison that can be directly assumed to be from the exhaust

 

Injectors, yes they'd be a reputable set. I already have the fuel rail and pressure regulator.
Heat control, I was looking to the wrap the manifold and down pipe. I didn't think about the blanket. But was thinking of adding the pusher fan in front of the AC condenser.
TB: I would think I would need to up the stock 62mm one to a 70mm to support the amount of air to be pushed in the car. Wasn't planning on changing out the intake manifold.
Cams: I was planning on keeping the ITR ones; I've heard they can support up to 600hp.
Axles: I don't think the Axles Shafts are OE Honda items; I know the intermediate shaft is OE.

 

The closest e85 station is 30 miles/45mins away or at the Track.
Axles; plan was to run them as long as possible, but I don't know if they are OE Honda items.
Fuel: I already have the Fuel Rails and FPR.
Clutch: grabs pretty good and has about 30k miles (most of it is highway).
Exhaust: that's good to hear.

 

The WS2 muffler is the one on the Cat Back kit; its the 2.5". Sounds like I'll keep the Apexi WS2 for a little longer since I'm staying below 400hp.

 

You definitely don't need to upgrade the TB. 62mm can support 500+hp.
H22 has a 60mm tb stock, and there's tons of people out there running those making 600+

 

If the catback kit has 2.5" piping as well, keep that entire exhaust. Just chop off the flange at the front to mate to a 2.5" downpipe

 

I would keep the stock throttle body in place. I would also stick with the 2.5" down pipe if keeping the WS exhaust, it will work fine for the power goal you wish to make. I'd also keep the OEM axles as long as possible. If the suspension geometry & wheel hop is in check then they should be fine. If I were to upgrade it would be to a set of 2.9s

The turbine housing and exhaust manifold in that particular kit also come ceramic coated.
Turbo wise, the 2560 would be undersized IMO for what you want. It would spool up SUPER quick but would run out of steam early in a few areas. The GT2860RS or billet Turbonetics 20/60 option would be more ideal.

 

Thank you, it sounds like I am on the right path. Once I'm ready to purchase, I will be calling you and discussing everything for the build.

 

Or get something like this for 3" which will still be quiet.


Come in various body sizes

 

You could keep the WS2, in fact I would recommend if you like quiet. I made a super quiet 3" system using vibrant components but I could have easily done it with 2.5" back when I was making 300whp.

Turbo will definitely need something more like GTX2860RS+ to keep up with the high flow of the R head and cams. You'll absolutely max a 2560 or traditional 2860 with the quickness.

Dont need axles or an intake or TB. Just change injectors, clutch if you need it, put the kit on and go get it tuned.