cnlevo

I'm posting this for my buddy. I'm a euro guy helping him install his kit.

He is running an ebay kit. t3/t4 turbo, manifold, downpipe, etc..

He is running a high pressure 255lph walbro fuel pump with a vortech FMU.

The problem we are having is that it is running PIGGGG RICH! I mean, so rich that if we rev it it throws flames just sitting there.

We have it hooked up on the FMU hooked up on the fuel pressure regulator line that returns the fuel to the tank. I'm pretty sure tht we have it hooked up accoring to the people at the local tuning shops and online tutorials.

He is running at anywhere between 48-53psi of fuel according to the guage at the fuel filter.

What do you think could be the problem of why he is running soooo rich. I thought it was because he has a 255 fuel pump and no adjustable reg., but he tells me that there is no need for an adjustable fuel pressure reg, because his boys have ran the same setup, but we can't figure out why in the hell it's running so rich at idle. He hasn't even hooked up a boost controller or a boost gauge because we are just trying to get it to run right at idle fuel wise.

any help would help alot....more then alot....because i'm about the throw my damn fist through his block. lol :X

cnlevo

anyone? this is really getting on my nerves, it was fun installing it at first....now it's become a pain.

I don't understand how you can add a 255lp high pressure fuel pump without a adjustable fuel pressure regulator, but i've been told that it's fine to do it that way.

nitroice40

With the walbro 255 my fuel pressure is 45 to 50 with a stock FPR. Stock should be around 42. I would say you need a adjustable fuel reg.

cnlevo

do you have the high pressure version or the low pressure version?


fromt what i've read you can set up a turbo kit with the following parts running at 7psi on a stock GSR b18c

turbo (t3/t4 60 trim)
manifold (tubular mani)
downpipe (3" ebay mani)
fuel pump (walbro 255lph high pressure pump)
missing link (not installed yet, just running the stock map to get it tuned and running right)
FMU (vortech FMU)
Intercooler/Piping (customer piping and ebay intercooler)

the things in ( ) are what we have.

Is this true? Or does he really need an adjustable fuel pressure reg. he said he gets around 43-50psi fuel pressure (made a mistake on the first post) with all the mods. However, everytime we give it hard throttle standing still it blows flames. I don't think that's supposed to happen. It's running open down pipe right now because we have to get it shortened (stupid ebay ****).

i'm pretty well informed with tubo stuff (had a dsm with 375 whp, my jetta is pushing about 250 to the crank.), but with hondas....i'm not that great at them, but with all the research i'm going i'm getting used to them, lol.

btw, did you mess with your timing at all or just leave it alone? I've heard people who messed with it and some who said they didn't. Just like the missing like, some people say you don't need one and some say you do.


ANY MORE HELP WOULD BE GREAT, because this is my buddies daily and it sucks that he doesn't have a ride right now.

kraig8

are you using anything to retard the timing?

cnlevo

no, not a the moment.

what would you suggest?


UPDATE: we've noticed it runs a hell of alot better after it's had about 15 minutes of driving.

kraig8

install the missing link. the ecu dosnt under boost.

kraig8

in order for you to throw flames out your exuast you have to retard your timing considerbly. ive never installed a turbo kit on a honda without the missing link, so i dont know what would happen. i think your ecu is wiggin out and retarting your timing way to much.

nitroice40

I have the low pressure ( The high pressure one is better I am goin to change). I am running 1000cc injectors, so I have no need for a fmu. I have the stock fpr on the car, I just go into the programing in my chip and tell it what fuel pressure I want the computer to use at idel so the computer can adjust.
The reason it runs better when its hot is because its running rich. Try one of them B&M adjustable fpr and a guage I think thats all you should need. And put that missing link on. The computer will not know whats going on when you boost it.
Dont waist your money on a timming adjuster, just retard you timming a few. Because your going to want to upgrade to a boost reference computer anyways.

I also have a VW, Passat!

a1320addict

iTrader: (1)

1. Take out the FMU, then throw it away in the garbage.
2. Make a tuning appointment.
3. Drive like a normal person, stay well out of boost, to the tuning appointment.
4. Invest in an EMS of your/your tuner's choice.
5. Enjoy.

Dc2_iTm

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by a1320addict &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1. Take out the FMU, then throw it away in the garbage.
2. Make a tuning appointment.
3. Drive like a normal person, stay well out of boost, to the tuning appointment.
4. Invest in an EMS of your/your tuner's choice.
5. Enjoy.</TD></TR></TABLE>

couldn't of said it any better tuninggg is keyyyy

cnlevo

i know that is a very clean way of doing it. He is just wanting to run 7 pounds. there is no sense in paying over $1000 in tuning equipment and dyno tuning for 7 pounds if something like this has worked before.

kraig8

or you could pay 3000 for a new motor, even 7psi will kill a motor with out tuning. if you have odb1 you can use uberdata for about 30$, or you can get hondata or neptune rtp and be ready for even more. i will tell you 7 or 8 psi gets old you will turn it up, 14psi on a stock block is fun

quicksilver1689

you prolly wont hurt your motor since its running so rich u just wont make power, youll have terrbile gas milegage, and if it runs extremely rich u could wash the rings out.

cnlevo

well we found out what the problem was. see i've never installed a turbo on a honda and neither has he. but his buddy has and his buddy forgot to mention that there are 3 little edge things on the head that have to be shaved down in order for the manifold to fit snug. so he was loosing boost there.

we have the vortech FMU hooked up to it along with a missing link. The guy at the local tuner shop says they do that all the time on 7 psi and all is fine on the GSR motor....and alot of the local dudes do that. only staying at 7 pounds. they said if he wanted he could run 10 psi but would have to get injectors and something to tune the fuel.

he's going to look into getting it tuned with something in a month or so. not sure with what.

it's pulling strong and hard now. and it stays at 7 pounds....so everyone says as long as you are at that that he will be fine.

i sure learned alot about these motors with this install. the dude who was supposively "helping" us has built TONS of cars and done some great things with the import scene over in cali and blah blah, but he has his job and family now and we were using his garage and he was over watching us, but i guess he forgot to tell us about those three little things. that was causing the exhuast gas to not even get to the turbo.