ls joker

Like what. If its within my email on the product witb my tuner, i mite have an answer for ya

93h2beg

can i download the software anywhere?

AZ_CIVIC

iTrader: (1)

Get one of these, my buddy has a few for sale and I have a M&W ignition box I would sell for a smoking deal.

ls joker

Lol idk, thats a good question

AZ_CIVIC

iTrader: (1)

Depends on what options you want, I have every option so it’s expensive but my buddy has used ones for a good price with pretty much every option.

Think of it this way, you don’t ever need any other ECU.

liam821

There are a lot of options out there, but you can't go wrong with Link. It's the ECU I'd recommend, especially if you want something that is plug'n'play.

93h2beg

I'm watching tuning videos of each setup. I found one video of a guy running a holley terminator. I really like that idea, I'm somewhat familiar with holleys software. But he did have to run an external crank trigger for some reason??? I'd prefer to not do that and just run the oe guts in the bottom half of the distributor.

Pepe14

My aem v2 saved my motor about 6 times this weekend because my fuel sending unit isnt working anymore and i was racing on an empty tank.

AEM FTW

ls joker

Ive seen that video. And when i watched, i imediately thought of your history with holley you mentioned previously. But the crank trigger thing stood out also.

93h2beg

now that they are holley.... think they will have black friday sales???


Anyone know of any standalones on sale for black friday?

93h2beg

I haven't bought an ecu yet. I have been busy with work, and diesel swapping my 4x4 caddy.
I have 3 project cars, my tow rig- 4x4 diesel ram and my commuter (2023 camry) I am thinking i may need to eliminate one of my projects. it won't be my barracuda, probably not my newly 12 valve diesel swapped Caddy, kinda only leaves the civic. I know i wont get much for it, and certainly not as a whole car. Ill have to part it... Of course ill take a huge financial hit on it. I dont know. its just hard to do 3 builds at once. the civic needs at minimum a chipped ecu to get it back to where it was. Preferably a standalone, that would be best. And to top- it off work outlook isnt great right now. So my fun money might be drying up... hopefully not but its a real possibility.
If I go standalone, the car would then become as race car. I would gut it, and get a bigger turbo again. I realistically think with the right turbo the car should be easy 10's. The motor will handle the power, the axles are insane shafts, has a good quaffe LSD, slicks, spherical bearings in the front suspension, drag shocks the manifold may be small but that's not a big deal... the injectors are 1650ss southbays

it could just be its winter and cold and rainy so i dont wanna do anything.... i dont know.

B00STD

Well I too have a B16, if you happen to part car in the next 1-2 months and have rods / 81.5mm pistons available I may take off your hands. I would just sit on it for now, revisit project later.

ls joker

Tarp it, let it sit and collect dust

I have JE 81.5mm 9:0.1 pistons in my for sale thread
https://honda-tech.com/forums/sale-1...an-up-3366638/

93h2beg

Update, bought a trailer. Put civic on the trailer. End of update

Chance EG

Man, trailer size looks perfect for that Civic. I'm lucky to have one I can use when needed, but it's a honkin big boi trailer and is overkill for the little hatch, that thing is a bitch to drive around town.

93h2beg

I bought it knowing I’d be needing my own again. It’s an 18’. Was on sale for $5k brand new. Had to pull the fenders off for the caddy when I did the 12 valve diesel swap

93h2beg

now if we can just get a few more ducks in a row maybe the landlord will finally get us a number to buy the house… but then I can start fixing it up!

93h2beg

It was very sad to read about Matt, highschooler…. I have been lurking for a while as I didn’t have any updates and I couldn’t believe that when I read it.

I do have an update for the civic.
im pulling everything out of it- I just got a 94 hatch cx.
I will go full race build on it now. Bigger turbo, and awd.
with about 500whp traction is a big issue even with sticky tires. So might as well go awd.
im going to fix the crushed rocker panel, and paint the car white.

93h2beg

Took the coupe out for run today. Car ran great for a minute.
That lovely EBAY turbo makes some wicked power.
however after I saw 30psi and it started to go lean I got out of it and limped it home.
headgasket failed again. I’m thinking I have an issue with the head studs.
this is the third or fourth time I’ve had the gasket fail. As far as I know it has arp studs. I just ordered some l19 studs, another je proseal gasket and all other needed gaskets, oil and filter.
im changin oil on this thing every 100 miles or so along with the head gasket.

hope the new studs fix the head lift.


the hatch goes into the body shop next Monday to get the body pulled square and the rocker pulled out. I’m waiting to do anything to the hatch until I know it can be made right.

Chance EG

Glad to hear your eBay turbo is still kicking. You've changed nothing else about the turbo setup since the STC failures correct?... That's certainly a bit telling, especially in conjunction with all your other experiences with SpeedTrapp

Are you confident the head is straight?

93h2beg

Got some new parts in, going to check the head out before I reinstall it. I did talk to a guy on Wednesday that was having the exact same problem with his boosted Honda. And he was looking at switching to l19 head studs too.

Chance EG

I didn't know Supertech made headgaskets

93h2beg

I have tried golden eagle, je proseal, so now I’m trying this one. It looks and feels identical to je proseal.

Keeping my fingers crossed that the o rings, new head gasket and l19 studs will let me see 35+ psi and hold!!!

do I need to replace the copper orings each time the head comes off?

Chance EG

If neither the GE or the JE Proseal gaskets worked, then I don't think the gasket quality is the issue.

I would highly suspect that the O-Rings should be replaced, since they are copper and designed to crush when the head is torqued down. Shouldn't be too hard, getting the groove machined is the hard part, not so much laying in the copper wire.

You're confident both your block deck and head are 100% straight?

93h2beg

yup i even had a competing machine shop check the head. He said it was FLAT and the RA was good for a boosted car. I have checked the block myself and couldn't see any light between the block and the machinists straight edge.