MIKES

I have got my LS turbosetup done. It runs really strong. My problem is my idle is all jacked up. If I come up to a set of lights and have to stop, the car will die. So I have to keep my foot on the gas when stopping (****** sucks). When I hook the vaccum line to my throttlebody (the part that hangs off the throttlebody that controls idle) it jumps the idle up to 2500rpm and I can't bring it down. I have turned the screw in all the way, I have even dissconnected the throttle cable and still revs at 2500rpm. What is causing it to rev so high at idle? When I dissonnect the vaccum to that, it idles at 1200rpm. The problem is that the idle is all over the place. Sometimes it idles fine (fairly) and the majority of the time it idles up and down. What do I do to rectify this? Is there some sort of valve I can use inline to restrict some of the pressure going to it? There is one there already and I have tried to switch ends so its pulling the other way, but it still does the same thing.

blackteg

Have you tried setting a higher idle with the Zdyne?

DSF

Did you properly bleed your coolant. It sounds like your EACV is acting up. Oh, and if you're talking about what I think you're talking about, that dashpot on the throttle body doesn't "control" your idle. It's there to prevent the throttle plate from slamming shut during sudden decelleration. Sounds like the EACV is opening up to much for some reason...


...just a thought

MIKES

Did you properly bleed your coolant. It sounds like your EACV is acting up. Oh, and if you're talking about what I think you're talking about, that
dashpot on the throttle body doesn't "control" your idle. It's there to prevent the throttle plate from slamming shut during sudden decelleration.
Sounds like the EACV is opening up to much for some reason...
Where is this EAVC your talking about? Can it be adjusted or do I need a new one? The car works so good and this idle is just vexing me. To answer your question, No I did not bleed the coolant. If that EACV is there to prevent the throttle plate from slamming shut during sudden decelleration then why doe sit rev to 2500rpm when the vaccum line is connected?

DSF

No, the dashpot on the throttle body controls the "slamming of the throttle plate". That should be located just above the throttle body pulley, if my memory is correct. The EACV is located on the back side of the intake manifold near the firewall. It has two collant lines and a 2pin connector attached to it. Try this... Reconnect the vacuum up to the dashpot. If I'm understanding what you're saying, your idle will go up to @2.5krpm. Then disconnect the 2pin connector on the EACV. If you indeed have the idle adjustment screw all the way in, the engine should die almost immediately. The EACV adjusts idle airflow based on coolant temp, that's why I was asking about bleeding the coolant. This may or may not be your problem. Just that it's happened to me before.

Smashback

I was wondering...how do you bleed coolant?

DSF

"Most" Hondas have a bleed bolt on the top coolant neck on the head. Open this as you're filling the radiator. When fluid comes out of the hole, close it and finish filling the system. (Just don't open it when the engine is hot ) I choose to use an additional step, however. I let the engine get up to operating temp with the radiator cap off (after bleeding in the previous method). Once the thermostat opens, you'll be sure to get any remaining air pockets out.

Smashback

Ah damnit, mine doesn't have anything there...you're talking about the neck that connects to the radiator via the upper hose, right?

DSF

Yeah. The upper hose. Hehe, that why I said "most" . My GS-R head doesn't have it either so I relied soley on the open radiator method. No problem yet.


[Modified by DSF, 2:40 PM 7/11/2002]