LOWLUDE22

So after 15k hard miles on a bone stock gsr trans equipped with quaife and DSS 2.9's my ring gear and main shaft finally but the dust. I really feel like wheel hop and my greed are what took it out. I did a quick 3rd brake boost spin to wipe the tires then was lined up around 65 to make a hit with a buddy. 3rd spun pretty good but oddly wheel hopped pretty bad which doesn't normally occur, then 4th lasted maybe 1k rpms and it free revved. So curious now, without going dogbox, what setups have provided good reliable luck for y'all? I'm around 650whp, 17" on Dunlop star specs with BBG. I did just make 9 half mile passes a few weeks back so maybe it was already fractured..? Any input is appreciated

LOWLUDE22

Main shaft

LOWLUDE22

Case did get broken from shrapnel

hondaqmp2

I had a GSR trans holding 707 hp like a champ. You need to use a CUFF to avoid gear separation causing breakage.

LightningTeg

Im gonna say either the ring gear and main shaft were already damaged probably from sustained 1/2 mile pull or when 4th let out the bits caused alot of damage. I've only broken a few teeth off of 4th and luckily it didn't do any other damage. I also caught pitting in my ring/main when i built it the first time and swapped them out for clean components.

LightningTeg

What fluids are you running?

LOWLUDE22

Always had oem honda mtf. Trans is about 50k miles old, 15k boosted

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Damn, I love seeing transmission carnage. It always makes me pucker.

A cuff wouldn't be a bad idea. Getting your gears cryo treated wouldn't be a bad idea, either.

king06

iTrader: (1)

Racersteve? From stuff that I've read, cryo doesn't really work.

AZ_CIVIC

iTrader: (1)

5th gear cuff isn't going to work if the dude is doing half mile racing. I would do a liberty face plated gearset at the very least and maybe a mfactory final drive.

Tony the Tiger

If it's mainly from sustained torque during a 1/2 mile pass (and not really from shock / hard launching or wheelhop), I would think about using some sort of shock proof MTF like LightningTeg was sort of suggesting about your fluid. Under those long pulls, the fluid thinning out + constant loading could be a big factor.

I use a mix of Redline lightweight shock proof fluid and it has been good so far. My Integra doesn't really see launches, and the car doesn't wheel hop (and if it does, I always let off immediately).

My transmissions were always near brand new, either completely brand new from Honda or with all new internals. My first one lasted me about a year at 650WHP and 10k miles with OEM Honda MTF. My current one lasted me over 2 years now with different fluid. Roughly same time of driving and same amount of power. The car only sees highway pulls from 50 to 160 mph in terms of racing and some circuit.

Just thought I'd share my experiences

gringotegra

It's not if but when they break .

They last for a bit but eventually will fail.

I use TORCO RTF fluid.

I used to have the racersteve heat treated gears but they actually don't do well on high street mile stuff. I noticed pitting and more wear on the gears.

Right now I just cycle through gears. They break, it's a 150whp trans holding up x4-5 times that. Can't expect it to last forever!

LOWLUDE22

The shock proof fluid is new info to me. Good to know, I'll definatley give that a shot next time around. Thanks for the input

LightningTeg

I used to mix Redline superlightweight shockproof and honda MTF. Now just straight Torco RTF

popwars123

iTrader: (1)

I used Torco RTF on my 650whp setup and it held fine. Tore one trans up on the dyno but that was using the Honda MTF.

Really starting to contemplate having a spare ls or gsr just as a "dyno trans" to avoid the abuse to my good trans with the repeated 4th gear pulls.

Has anyone had luck yet using the mfactory gears? I know they say rated to ~500whp, but then again our original gears were designed for 150whp cars LOL.

I'm heavily contemplating trying these out on my next setup since it really is reasonably affordable and I want to keep syncro engagement.

MFactory® R&D - Close Ratio Gears

gringotegra

I have a Dyno Trans

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

Redline lightweight shockproof and fix the suspension deflection and engine movement causing the wheel Hop. 500ftlbs and above is when th stock gearbox starts giving up. Some break at less power it's luck of the draw. Cuff makes no difference IMO we got same amount of passes with and without a cuff.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

I would look into WPC treatment and REM polishing for whatever you decide on.

The WPC treatment will improve lubrcation, reduce friction, and increase service life and durability.
The REM polishing will add on that.

Not to mention both processes remove stress risers and other things from the surface of the gears that can lead to fatigue/stress induced failures.

We saw a 60F drop in trans fluid temps just from REM polishing in our RPM Stage 5 TR6060 on the Z06.

If you want to go full hardcore I know a company that makes a true sequential 6spd straight cut dog box for B series apps. Included everything down to a new intermediate shaft, CVs, axles, hubs, etc. I don't know the price tag but their other applications are considerably cheaper than the usual transmission options. I've been meaning to contact them about price and other details.

Tony the Tiger

How does the transmission shift when it's cold w/ full Torco RTF? I tried using full redline shockproof, but the synchros did not like it at all for the first 5-10 mins of driving, especially when I drive it during spring or fall (about 5-10 deg C). I ended up doing a partial mix and it helped the cold shifting significantly

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Another thing few ever consider is trans fluid temps...

Just street driving temps rarely get high but under conditions seen during events like time attack and 1/2 mile events can easily cause fluid temps to rise well past the safe "stable" temperature of the transmission fluid and into the fast breakdown zone (250F-300F or higher) especially with you using Honda MTF. A guy with a turbo prelude he does SCCA events in data logged trans temps and found them to be seriously excessive.

Incorporating a transmission cooler/filter circuit will definitely help keep the transmission happy and they aren't that complicated to implement. I've designed a system that uses the stock drain/fill plugs which is super simple and rather affordable. I can post or PM you my sketch. I'm also working on another version which will supply gear oil directly to the gear set but individually to each gear pair via a spraybar.

Running a quality synthetic trans fluid designed for high power/high temp use along with at least REM polishing the gear set and running a cooler system will most definitely help keep your transmission happy.

LightningTeg

For me I noticed no difference hot or cold.

Polished gearset, Carbon 3rd-4th, Speedfactory SCHA, OBX LSD.

gringotegra

I actually notice it shifts just fine honestly. Nothing crazy at all.

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

No shifting issues here with the redline.

LOWLUDE22

Ok I've got a second question about this while it's down. Long story short some may have seen 1k miles ago when my CC twin disc inner splines/main shaft stripped. This happened about 55-6000 miles after install and conclusion of diag was aimed at possible alignment issues. Yes tool was used, dowel pins are being utilized as well. Now with this trans mishap and looking at things while apart, I can tell on the main shaft that the problem is still continuing. The only thing I cannot find and resources on is possibility of is my machined block being responsible. It was line honed .003 "I think" if memory serves correct. Laskey said, again if I'm remembering correct' that the blocks themselves take the wear of the hone machine mostly due to being aluminum and caps being steel. This essentially raises the crank in the block itself. He suggested which I followed, to undowel the oil pump and center so that true alignment of the pump gear was achieved. So is this enough mis alignment to cause the clutch plate splines to ride on maybe 60-75% of the main shaft teeth vs being centered all the way around the shaft...? I hope I stated things clear enough to make out my question, any input appreciated as always!

bigG

iTrader: (6)

Yes you should be doing the same for the trans dowels