#3 cylinder dead!
well i was driving in between el paso and san antonio and if any of you know its a whole lot of nothing. before making the drive i changed my oil and the retards that changed my oil didnt do a good job on tightening my oil filter. somehwere in between the gasket on the oil filter split and i lost alot of oil. i tightened by hand as hard as i could and limped it to the next exit where i filled it with oil and it seemed fine. when i got to el paso it was knocking really bad and so i pulled the engine. after i ripped it apart i was able to see that i didnt TOO much damage but enough to **** me off. the bearing on the number 3 rod was shot to **** and the rod towards the bottom in blacker than all the rest. my question is that i want to rebuild it to be as good as stock again and i want to know exactly what to do to make it reliable again. what exactly do i need to do? do i need to replace the rod? the piston and cylinder look fine from what i can tell but the journal on the crank doesnt look too good. any advice would be great. again it was babied from the time the car started smoking until i ripped the motor out. all the other bearings on the rods and crank look fine. thanks for the help.
**posted in the AM forum for 2 days with no help.
**posted in the AM forum for 2 days with no help.
if the crank is scratched, it will probably have to be replaced along with the rod (if scratched)....not sure about the piston, if that cylinder got hot, the wrist pin could have messed it up.
OK... I am lost; this post belongs in the Forced Induction why?
Well, to do it right if the rod has discoloration then you need to replace it. Sometimes shops will break pistons when taking them off because of the press fit pin. They always tell me at least that it is a risk when pressing out the stock pin. Also it does not matter how much you babied it after your motor started smoking/knocking. A spun bearing is still a spun bearing and the crankshaft most likely will need to be turned down. Well then you have to turn down the whole crank and get oversized bearings. Most of the time this is not even worth it by the time you turn the crank you will be half way to a forged one or buying another stock journal diameter crank.
So in the long run I would just replace the crank, at least the one rod, and all of the bearings. For the most part none of the rods should be discolored soooo......???
Obviously you could do it a million different ways while you have the motor apart.
BTW, WTF were you doing having somebody else change your oil?
Well, to do it right if the rod has discoloration then you need to replace it. Sometimes shops will break pistons when taking them off because of the press fit pin. They always tell me at least that it is a risk when pressing out the stock pin. Also it does not matter how much you babied it after your motor started smoking/knocking. A spun bearing is still a spun bearing and the crankshaft most likely will need to be turned down. Well then you have to turn down the whole crank and get oversized bearings. Most of the time this is not even worth it by the time you turn the crank you will be half way to a forged one or buying another stock journal diameter crank.
So in the long run I would just replace the crank, at least the one rod, and all of the bearings. For the most part none of the rods should be discolored soooo......???
Obviously you could do it a million different ways while you have the motor apart.
BTW, WTF were you doing having somebody else change your oil?
new crank/better pistons/rods...then ur good to go...since ur going turbo anyways....might as well do ls crank/rods...apparantly gsr cranks are harder to come by.
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