d16z6
eagle rods
CP pistons

im getting 145, 145,145, 15 going order 1-4

15 is really low, even 145 seems low. i just got the motor already built from 5thgencivic here on H-T, got it put in and i get these numbers.

any ideas?

 

Wow...15!?!?! There is definatelly something wrong. I would say ringlands and or cracked sleeve. Are you sure it is 15? That is rediculous...

 

145 is pretty low to me. have you started it yet??

 

15...that is real low. Shouldnt a built motor have around 190 or up on the compression per cylinder?

 

what sthe compression ratio? has it ever been started? maybe the rings havent seated yet? (just a guess)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fastludeh22 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what sthe compression ratio? has it ever been started? maybe the rings havent seated yet? (just a guess)</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah chek that!!!

 

u should have 190

145 still low

and 15 psi is basically nuttin

its like not having the valves fully closed

do a leakdown test to find out where the compression is going to

 

Timmay, I have 5 people that can vouch for the motor that have riden in the car and saw the motor running flawlessly... The motor was 100% when I pulled it, guaranteed. Anybody that knows me knows I'm 110% honest. I also asked if you wanted me to video tape my comp test, but you said that was ok. Before I pulled the motor with it fully warm, throttle wide open, drivers side to pass side #1=180, #2=175, #3=175, #4=175 Even with cracked ringlands, in my opinion it still wouldn't show 15psi. And there is no way the sleeve was cracked or the ringlands gone when I pulled it. The motor was perfect when I pulled it.. Have gas receipts and everything because I've been driving it pretty much daily since the motor was put in the car ~3000 miles ago. Even have the timeslip(though it was from like a month and a half ago) as well as the video of the car on the dyno and in action, hehe. The only problem I had was the comp tester would want to stick in the #1 cylinder sometimes even when lubed. Threads were perfectly fine though. Thanks.

Also, have you gotten rid of all the codes you were having? o2, IAT, vtec? You get spark to the number 4 cylinder yet?

If a cylinder is flooded with fuel will it affect the comp test? Peace.

Nate


Modified by 5thgencivic at 8:09 AM 5/9/2004

 

yea i started the motor for about 1min, noticed it wasnt running right. did a comp test and got those numbers.

im gonna pull the head tonight and try to figure it out. i know the #'s would go up if the motor was warm. Im almost leaning towards a valve, but who knows till you take it apart.

well nate, im glad to hear your happy with the b16. if i find out that its a piston or something im just gonna sell the turbo kit and put a stock motor back in and be done with it. I dont have the patience or money to fix it

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Timmay &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yea i started the motor for about 1min, noticed it wasnt running right. did a comp test and got those numbers.

im gonna pull the head tonight and try to figure it out. i know the #'s would go up if the motor was warm. Im almost leaning towards a valve, but who knows till you take it apart.

well nate, im glad to hear your happy with the b16. if i find out that its a piston or something im just gonna sell the turbo kit and put a stock motor back in and be done with it. I dont have the patience or money to fix it</TD></TR></TABLE>

There has to be something to it man. 15psi is like insanely low. Again, the motor ran absolulety flawlessly when I pulled it and I didn't touch or change anything from the time I pulled it to the time it went into your truck. You can't sell everything. Do a leakdown first at least.. I hope that everything works out. The B16 runs great. Thanks. Peace. check your pm.

Nate

 

Stupid question, but have you checked the valve lash on #4?

 

maybe timing belt is off 1 tooth on one of the cams....that might cause it to be where some of the valves are open at all times....

 

well it ran fine when he took it out of his car, so from him to me there is no way a valve could come out of adjustment or timing belt to slip

 

Timmay, not to be a dick, but if ya would have built it yourself you wouldn't have any problems. Just my $0.02

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HONDAofPOKY &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Timmay, not to be a dick, but if ya would have built it yourself you wouldn't have any problems. Just my $0.02 </TD></TR></TABLE>

there is nothing wrong with the build.

i rode in the car not long before it was traded and it pulled hard.

no one knows what happend, but the was nothing wrong with the "build"

 

there was mad build up of something on one of the exhaust valves, i took all the valves out and cleaned the seats and valves, runs ok now, minus the lopy idle.
needs tuned bad, i want to take this bitch to redline

 

Your numbers will go up once you warm it up. I've seen fairly low numbers (around 150) on a cold engine before. But after it was warmed up properly, it showed 175 across the board.


REMEMBER! WOT and Pull the ECU fuse before you do the test

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by racinskittle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Your numbers will go up once you warm it up. I've seen fairly low numbers (around 150) on a cold engine before. But after it was warmed up properly, it showed 175 across the board.


REMEMBER! WOT and Pull the ECU fuse before you do the test</TD></TR></TABLE>

i just disconnect the dist. no spark and no fuel that way....

glad to hear u got it worked out

 

u sure u had the gauge in good?
how many test did u take?

it's recommended to do a few tests. i kinda did like u, but then i went around a few more tests, my numbers were good. maybe, and hopefully the gauge wasn't screwed all the way in the plug hole.