ls joker

You aint kiddin. Ive been wanting to start a project with my nine year old and the girlfriend. After i get the racecar squared away, mite look into gettin a ruckus.

ls joker

Ill have my 84mm b16 ready for you to buy here pretty soon. Letting the block, crank, eagle rods, beat up pistons, timing belt, and arp headstud go for 600 bucks. Sleeves will need to go to 84.25 or 84.5mm though

Pepe14

Rod and main bearing clearances were too tight. I got a set of hx acl bearings and the mains came out good but the rods are still to tight at .0015 thou.
Im going to get the rods opened up .0004 tomorrow. I dont like running tight clearances.

JRCivic1

Make the parts fit the bearings... instead of fitting the bearings to the parts. Makes absolutely no sense to me. This is why I build using Genuine Honda bearings.

Pepe14

How much are oem bearings these days? Can you even get them?

liam821

Thanks! My shop fits both my race car and the project car - just. It's pretty squishy in there right now. The e46 interior takes up so much space, plus all the e46m3 drivetrain stuff. It's sorta a disaster in there right now. The idea was the e46 project would replace my daily once it's all together - an e46m3 coupe - and then I'd free up the space in my shop for the race car...but I'm having second thoughts about selling my M3. With how expensive they are these days, I'll never find another one as nice as mine at least not without spending a bunch of money. Perhaps it's time for a car stacker in the main garage!

Yeah, you can order them still. I use OEM bearings because you can size them just right. They're a little expensive, $15/bearing so $30 for each rod.

Pepe14

20 bucks later and i got the clearance i want. I got the crank polished this morning too. I was trying to talk myself into leaving it alone but couldnt.

Pepe14

This was before the rod resize

Pepe14

Slow and steady.

GEN2 LS

iTrader: (3)

Being indecisive on this rebuild guys. Need a quick bit of advice. I have 2 options moving forward.

Option 1: send built ported b16 head to get valve seat repaired/valve job roughly $700 (Race shop that does honda heads) for that not including the price of new valves/keepers which is roughly $500
So $1200 total

Option 2: Pull the OEM ITR head off my spare ITR longblock and just run stock valves and keepers and throw the new valve springs and retainers in it. Roughly cost for machine work $400 at a local machine shop.

Tired of spending money but I also didn't really want to tear into the original ITR motor as I was going to rebuild it down the road for other duties. Help....

ls joker

Upgrading valve springs is never a bad thing if theyre needed. Id honestly send the ported b16 head out though. As theres already work done to it

liam821

Agree, upgraded valve springs are always a good thing. I'd probably do option 1 or option 3 which is sourcing a b16a head and swapping in new valve springs/retainers and sending it.

GEN2 LS

iTrader: (3)

Ended up going option 2 lmao. My pockets just can't take another 2k down the drain right now with my upcoming summer travel.

Went option 2... I honestly think after this go round if I switch setups again i'm going k series.

ls joker

Still a good course of action anyway.

Speaking of...,
whats everyones summer plans? Were currently setup for niagra falls, a cedar point day(which im definitely not goin too lol), and a weekend at the pennslyvania cabin. Id like to do more museum and city trips, but life happened during the first quarter of this year. I also want to try and get my nine year old to a test and tune track day. Later in the summer when its not boiling outside.

Pepe14

Opened up the new oil pump from amazon finally and did a port job. Everything matched up with an oem pump down to the weight of the gears both at 199 grams.
Heres some before and after.