Upgrading Cams/IM
This wednesday coming up I have a dyno tune appointment. Right now I have stock b16 cams and intake manifold/TB. I am looking to upgrade those before the tune. My question is, will the car still run ok to drive it to the shop? Or will it all affect it so much that the car won't run and will have to be towed there?
i wouldnt go upgrading to anything but gsr cams unless you upgrade the valve springs and likely the retainers if revving above 8400 or so.
as for will it run, that really depends on the size of the primary lobes.
what parts do u have to throw in there?
as for will it run, that really depends on the size of the primary lobes.
what parts do u have to throw in there?
Ls Vtec - B18A1 Block - B16 Head- Supertech retainers and springs - ARP Head Studs - Garrett gt28 turbo on 10psi
I am looking to throw on an edelbrock victor x manifold and crower stage 2 cams. As well as a 70mm TB
I am looking to throw on an edelbrock victor x manifold and crower stage 2 cams. As well as a 70mm TB
also id probably keep the 60mm tb and spend that money on something else
i think those cams and manifold arent the best choice for your motor. gsr/itr cams would be my recommendation. i also feel the plenum on the victorx is a bit big. itr intake or sk2 pro series might be better choice. your not working the biggest of turbo's here so u want to not go overkill. i know the performer x has good results on 1.8L n/a motors idk how it does on f/i applications
also id probably keep the 60mm tb and spend that money on something else
also id probably keep the 60mm tb and spend that money on something else
if you plan to keep that turbo, get cams that are designed for the rpm range where that turbo is efficient, which is all midrange and no top end. same for the intake mani and TB.
gsr cams, 60mm TB, ITR intake mani.
the thing to remember is that when you mix and match parts designed for different rpm ranges, it will HURT power, not help it.
using the parts you considered getting will decrease your power. the turbo will choke out the top end making those parts pointless, and the cams/tb/intake will choke out your lower and midrange to probably less than what you make now.
I disagree with you on the turbo choice, and I disagree that the VictorX IM is a bad choice.
If you aren't pushing more than ~16psi (sea level) then the GT28RS is a great street turbo. Turbine housing size is irrelevant with an external wastegate and properly calibrated boost control. Even with the IWG at 10psi you won't see measurable backpressure until about 7200 (it was built for 2.0L displacement after all).
The VictorX IM does have a big plenum, which maintains a constant low pressure zone before the ports to support higher velocity. Because you're virtually always in boost with the GT28 on a Crower stg2 cam, there is always demand for high velocity.
Tip-in will always be fat, which means quicker spooling.
I do not however, agree with a 70mm throttle body. The opening is too large and makes daily driving more cumbersome with a negligible benefit over a 60-65mm bore which is more practical for 10psi.
If you aren't pushing more than ~16psi (sea level) then the GT28RS is a great street turbo. Turbine housing size is irrelevant with an external wastegate and properly calibrated boost control. Even with the IWG at 10psi you won't see measurable backpressure until about 7200 (it was built for 2.0L displacement after all).
The VictorX IM does have a big plenum, which maintains a constant low pressure zone before the ports to support higher velocity. Because you're virtually always in boost with the GT28 on a Crower stg2 cam, there is always demand for high velocity.
Tip-in will always be fat, which means quicker spooling.
I do not however, agree with a 70mm throttle body. The opening is too large and makes daily driving more cumbersome with a negligible benefit over a 60-65mm bore which is more practical for 10psi.
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