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Upgrading Cams/IM

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Old Sep 21, 2013 | 09:17 PM
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JHipps's Avatar
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Default Upgrading Cams/IM

This wednesday coming up I have a dyno tune appointment. Right now I have stock b16 cams and intake manifold/TB. I am looking to upgrade those before the tune. My question is, will the car still run ok to drive it to the shop? Or will it all affect it so much that the car won't run and will have to be towed there?
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Old Sep 22, 2013 | 05:01 PM
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Default Re: Upgrading Cams/IM

i wouldnt go upgrading to anything but gsr cams unless you upgrade the valve springs and likely the retainers if revving above 8400 or so.

as for will it run, that really depends on the size of the primary lobes.

what parts do u have to throw in there?
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Old Sep 22, 2013 | 05:11 PM
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Default Re: Upgrading Cams/IM

Why not ask your tuner?

You didn't give us much info on your car to begin with and attempt to help you
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Old Sep 22, 2013 | 07:03 PM
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Default Re: Upgrading Cams/IM

Ls Vtec - B18A1 Block - B16 Head- Supertech retainers and springs - ARP Head Studs - Garrett gt28 turbo on 10psi

I am looking to throw on an edelbrock victor x manifold and crower stage 2 cams. As well as a 70mm TB
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Old Sep 23, 2013 | 04:47 PM
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Default Re: Upgrading Cams/IM

Originally Posted by JHipps
Ls Vtec - B18A1 Block - B16 Head- Supertech retainers and springs - ARP Head Studs - Garrett gt28 turbo on 10psi

I am looking to throw on an edelbrock victor x manifold and crower stage 2 cams. As well as a 70mm TB
i think those cams and manifold arent the best choice for your motor. gsr/itr cams would be my recommendation. i also feel the plenum on the victorx is a bit big. itr intake or sk2 pro series might be better choice. your not working the biggest of turbo's here so u want to not go overkill. i know the performer x has good results on 1.8L n/a motors idk how it does on f/i applications

also id probably keep the 60mm tb and spend that money on something else
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Old Sep 24, 2013 | 11:14 AM
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Default Re: Upgrading Cams/IM

Originally Posted by blackeg
i think those cams and manifold arent the best choice for your motor. gsr/itr cams would be my recommendation. i also feel the plenum on the victorx is a bit big. itr intake or sk2 pro series might be better choice. your not working the biggest of turbo's here so u want to not go overkill. i know the performer x has good results on 1.8L n/a motors idk how it does on f/i applications

also id probably keep the 60mm tb and spend that money on something else
I totally agree with this. that's a small turbo, it doesn't flow well at all for compressor or exhaust at high rpms, so it would be totally pointless to install big cams designed for high rpm power.

if you plan to keep that turbo, get cams that are designed for the rpm range where that turbo is efficient, which is all midrange and no top end. same for the intake mani and TB.

gsr cams, 60mm TB, ITR intake mani.

the thing to remember is that when you mix and match parts designed for different rpm ranges, it will HURT power, not help it.
using the parts you considered getting will decrease your power. the turbo will choke out the top end making those parts pointless, and the cams/tb/intake will choke out your lower and midrange to probably less than what you make now.
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Old Sep 30, 2013 | 06:53 PM
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Default Re: Upgrading Cams/IM

I disagree with you on the turbo choice, and I disagree that the VictorX IM is a bad choice.

If you aren't pushing more than ~16psi (sea level) then the GT28RS is a great street turbo. Turbine housing size is irrelevant with an external wastegate and properly calibrated boost control. Even with the IWG at 10psi you won't see measurable backpressure until about 7200 (it was built for 2.0L displacement after all).

The VictorX IM does have a big plenum, which maintains a constant low pressure zone before the ports to support higher velocity. Because you're virtually always in boost with the GT28 on a Crower stg2 cam, there is always demand for high velocity.
Tip-in will always be fat, which means quicker spooling.

I do not however, agree with a 70mm throttle body. The opening is too large and makes daily driving more cumbersome with a negligible benefit over a 60-65mm bore which is more practical for 10psi.
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