HoCi

Hi Guys

I have a car, which was sitting in garage for ~8 months. About 3 months ago I started it up and let it run, till it the radiator gan started working and from that time it has been in garage standing still again. I took the battery off and removed the gearbox for some work and now I put it all together, but it won't start up anymore. It is kind of almost starting but nothing more.
I read, that the V1 memory battery could have gone bad and the memory is gone but how can I test it, if it is really ECU's fault not nothing else?

- Spark is there
- Fuel pump is working
- Changed also fuel for new one to be sure
- Tried another main relay
- Cleaned the grounds
- Checked the 7,5A fuse

When I switch the key to second position, the fuel pump works a few seconds, like usual. When I try to start it and then let the key go again, then the fuel pump stays on and works on..I think it shouldn't be like this.

I don't have the tune/map to upload to ecu and sadly I don't have the knowledge to do that kind of things also. Till now the car has driven fine with the tune/map it has got many years. I'll try to get the tune, but I'm now sure if I can get it.

I opened the ecu also, to look inside. It looks ok, doesn't have fishy smell and when I turn the key, two green lights go on.

Hondata Serial: S300-0490

Thanks to everybody, who is willing to take time and participate in solving this thread!

JRCivic1

That is a very early s300. It is entirely possible that the battery has failed and the system has lost the tune that was uploaded to the s300 board. If you don't have a copy of the map... you cannot eliminate the Hondata board... unless you want to create a whole new tune and upload that. NO tune issue should leave the fuel pump running after the engine stalls, so the problem could in fact be the ECU itself. A known good ECU socketed for a s300 system will eliminate this possibility... you hang your board in it and see how the car does.

HoCi

Yesterday I downloaded the calibration from S300. Here it is: https://www.dropbox.com/s/sfe3endvecjow ... 8.skl?dl=0
It seems, its messed up. Idle is 312500rpm, Rev limits in different gears are very different. MAP shows stock map and so on.

I also found a calibration, that I downlodad from my S300 2 years ago and they look totally different.

The calibration from two years ago it seems, that they are as they should be...I don't know about the fuel map of course.

My question is. How safe is it to upload that old calibration, which is downloaded from the ecu? I guess better, than the one I downloaded yesterday? :D

HoCi

So, we uploaded a calibration and the car started. But it won't let you touch the gas pedal, it dies right away. What could be wrong?
I tried also one setup from new calibrations (b16a greddy turbo) and then the gas pedal worked fine.

JRCivic1

It is not recommended to download a calibration from a s300... especially a v1 s300. It is likely that when you downloaded it, the calibration got corrupted. Now, you have re-uploaded a corrupted calibration.

HoCi

Thanks for your reply!
When we go over the tune, can you make it back good again or would still be better to begin with a clean sheet?

JRCivic1

If some data in the populated boxes in the calibration is obviously incorrect... meaning that it JUMPS out at you... like rows or columns of zeros in the ignition or fuel maps... then you may be able to fix what you have. However, if you don't see any issues, then I suggest creating a "basemap" from the calibration library and see if the problem issues go away.

2x0

This is what happened when I bought my car and the V1 was bad. Car had sat in storage for several months. Drove fine for a little while, but then started acting funny. When the V1 battery dies, it kind of works intermittently at first, and it corrupts the calibration. Eventually it should have a solid red light and run like it's limp mode, if at all.

Time to upgrade to a V3. The thing that sucks is if you did not have the calibration saved before it was corrupted, you will need re-tuned.

If it is just that you re-uploaded a corrupted tune, then you may be able to fix it. Check the injector phasing, mine was all out of whack and caused it to die anytime I would touch the throttle.

swamp_ass

My old v1 s300 had these problems, and then it got to a point where it could not hold a tune and the green light would not even turn on. Hondata said I had no other choice but to do the upgrade form with the extra 400 bucks. I said screw that and bought the Dallas NvRAM battery and had one of those phone repair stores install it for 40 bucks and the s300 worked flawlessly all the way until I sold the car, owner says it still going strong no problems!

JRCivic1

Swamp ***, do you know the part number of the Dallas NvRAM battery that is needed to repair the v1 s300 ???

swamp_ass

DS1230AB-120, if you cant find any of these there are others on ebay too, look up s300 v1 memory chip.

HoCi

You were right. Exactly that was wrong there. After that the gas pedal right away started working.

I have good news also. Got in contact with the guy, who tuned the car and luckily he still had my cars calibration file from year 2012. Car is driving good but when I did a datalog for him with 4th gear, there was one very lean spot @ ~5100rpm. Fuel map shows, that I shuld add there 24% of fuel. Another thing is, that the car drove earlier with about 1bar of boost, but right now it got 1,5bar. I'm very new in Hondata world, so I have to ask, how is the right way to regulate the boost pressure, if I have the electronic AEM boost controller solenoid. Right now in Boost Control --> "Activation Pressure" number was 1,9bar. As I understand, it should be like about 0,3bars, so the solenoid would take over the control of the boost? So right now the pressure went as high as the spring allowed it?

Thats very good information. Can you link to somewhere, where it is definitely the right chip, not cheap chinese s*it?

Big thank you also to all of who helped me till now!

Waving from Estonia