s300 boost problem or mac valve
so i am unable to build more then the wastegate spring thats 7 psi i am to the point to were i just wanna run a big wastgate spring the mac valve has one wire to 12 volt and the other to the ecu i have grounded the ecu wire to test the solenoid and it clicked so i no it works is there anything else i can do to test it ? or s300 thanks guys.
yea they are installed lol i no you guys had to ask ive had the boost going thru my ecu for over a year now it just started to mess up the other day i am going to recheck over my wiring again but after that i dont have any other ideas.
Perhaps one of your variables in your settings is not being met to enable the pwm output... ?
any examples ? car runs fine its just only on 7 psi the solenoid set to come on at 1 psi ive also tried other numbers like 4 psi ive switched it from a norm open to norm closed nothing it will only make wastgate ill look over the map once again and report back thanks for the help guys.
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Or post your bin file for one of us to check it over.
I recall someone having a similar problem like this after the car sat for a little while and realized his wiring got messed up when he was playing with other things.
I recall someone having a similar problem like this after the car sat for a little while and realized his wiring got messed up when he was playing with other things.
Back up.
There are two wires on the MAC valve, one is 12V switched power with key on, the other should have less than 2 ohms to D14.
If these two things are correct, then check resistance across the two wires of the valve itself and make sure there is continuity and it is not an open circuit condition.
If this is also right, then you may check the PWM signal coming out of D14 to see if the ECU is actually providing the PWM frequency / signature.
If that is right, then you need to check your wastegate for a stuck valve, torn diaphram, or broken control line (top wastegate line).
There are two wires on the MAC valve, one is 12V switched power with key on, the other should have less than 2 ohms to D14.
If these two things are correct, then check resistance across the two wires of the valve itself and make sure there is continuity and it is not an open circuit condition.
If this is also right, then you may check the PWM signal coming out of D14 to see if the ECU is actually providing the PWM frequency / signature.
If that is right, then you need to check your wastegate for a stuck valve, torn diaphram, or broken control line (top wastegate line).
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